What exactly is so-called ‘powertrain’?

Dear Bob: Here’s a question that nonmechanics — myself included — would like an answer to.

What exactly is the “powertrain” that they refer to in “powertrain warranty?” My friends agree that, no matter what is wrong with the car, it’s never part of the powertrain and therefore most likely not covered by the powertrain warranty.

Thanks for your help, and keep up the good work.

Sincerely,

— J.B., Mechanicsburg, Pa.

A: The powertrain is a vehicle’s engine, its transmission and either its rear axle or, if it is a front-wheel-drive vehicle, its transaxle. These units, hooked together like the cars in a train, work together to provide power to move the vehicle — hence the word “powertrain.”

A powertrain warranty is one that covers the above units for the specified amount of time — say, three years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Other vehicle parts such as power door locks, brakes, non-powertrain electrical units and so forth are covered separately, and not for nearly so long a time as the powertrain components.

But obviously experience has taught you that already!

Dear Bob: I bought a 2000 Buick LeSabre, and within nine months I had a dead battery. Since then I’ve had a dead battery eight times. I’ve also paid for two new batteries. I’ve gone from nine months to six days. I’m to the point that, if anyone tells me I’ve left the lights on, they’ll need new bridge work!

I have 9,800 miles on the car, and am an elderly widow who does not drive at night or in bad weather. The latest story I get is that I don’t drive it enough. I’m sure that the garage was stalling to get past the three-year warranty. One suggestion was to unhook the OnStar.

I could write a book on all the excuses I get while I’m paying and paying. I’d be grateful if you could help.

Sincerely,

— E.K., Moses Lake, Wash.

A: Let’s see, you have 9,800 miles on the car and it is more than four years old. So you are averaging less than 2,400 miles per year, or less than 200 miles per month. That’s not a lot of miles for a vehicle that has a lot of electrical equipment, including OnStar.

I’d probably have to agree with the shop’s latest diagnosis: You don’t drive the car enough for the battery to remain fully charged. Believe it or not, this is a common problem for car owners who use their vehicles sparingly. Neglect is tough on a battery, especially when you have various idle standby accessories that use battery power to stay alive.

You might consider a trickle-charge unit for your battery. I believe some are available that plug into the cigarette-lighter socket, connecting the car to a standard electrical socket in your garage. Taking this precaution when you park will keep your battery at full charge while the vehicle is idle.

This seems like the best solution to your dead-battery problem, other than driving much more, which you obviously don’t want or need to do.

Dear Bob: I have clear driving lights on my car, and am trying to find a spray paint that is yellow or amber. I can’t find colored lenses to fit the lights.

Years ago there was something one could spray and turn the lights amber. It was high-temperature paint of some kind. Is it still being made?

Thanks,

— R.W., Collinsville, Ill.

A: I’m not familiar with it, but perhaps my readers have an insight into where you might purchase such paint. Anyone have anything to offer?

AMERICAN DRIVERS FIGHT BACK

Here’s a tip that will help you get better gas mileage and save money while fighting terrorism and cutting our nation’s dependence on Mideastern oil:

You can’t know if you’re becoming a more fuel-efficient driver until you know how to figure your gas mileage properly.

Begin by jotting down the odometer reading each time you fill the gas tank. Better yet, if you have a trip odometer, simply reset it to zero each time.

Let’s say that the odometer reads 8,510. At your next fill-up, record the mileage reading again and the number of gallons of gas you’ve purchased — say, 8,760 miles and 10.2 gallons.

Now subtract the previous odometer reading from the current one — 8,760 minus 8,510 — and you get 250 miles traveled. Of course, if you have an odometer, you can simply jot down that reading, which in this case ought to be that same 250 miles.

Now divide the 250 miles traveled by the 10.2 gallons used, and you’ll have your miles per gallon: 250/10.2 24.5 miles per gallon. For a leg up, keep a small calculator in your glove compartment to make figuring your gas mileage that much easier.