Early car ‘computer’ probably an option

Dear Bob: I’m writing about an accessory my 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442 convertible had installed at the factory.

It’s called a Servicator, and it recorded hours of operation. When maintenance was due, it emitted a card that listed what maintenance was required. You took this card to the dealer to have the car serviced, and it was recorded for warranty purposes.

I have the Servicator and a booklet describing it as “The world’s first car maintenance computer.” I found it so interesting that I removed it when I sold the car in the 1970s.

I wanted to know for how long and on what cars GM included this item. Thanks for your help.

A faithful reader,

— C.H., Thompsontown, Pa.

A: I’ve contacted General Motors on this and drawn a blank. In fact, one PR person refused to answer my calls. Guess I bugged ‘em too much!

I’ve looked in every old-car book and encyclopedia I have, and haven’t been able to come up with anything. My feeling is that this early “computer” was an option, available only on specialty cars such as your Cutlass 442 convertible — which, as you know, is quite collectible nowadays.

A cruise of the Net yielded only a single reference to the Servicator. It was a mention of a booklet that came as part of the glove-box paraphernalia on a used 1966 Pontiac Beaumont, a Canadian-only model, that was bought new in Canada in 1965 and then purchased, used, many years later. The booklet was about the Servicator, probably the same one you have, and noted that it could be installed for $29.95.

So the Servicator was for real — hey, I never doubted you!

Perhaps some reader with more knowledge, or even one with a vehicle with a Servicator installed, can fill in the blanks?

Dear Bob: I have a 1990 Buick Century with 85,500 miles. The check-engine light came on, and the codes set in the computer were numbers 21 and 22.

Code 21 represents throttle-position-sensor voltage problems. Code 22 means throttle-position-sensor problems and a fuel-relay circuit that’s open or grounded.

The car quit running after reaching a cruising speed of 60 mph — no sputter or cough, just plain died. I replaced the throttle-position sensor, and now only code 22 shows up … but the car still doesn’t start.

I have replaced the coil packs and control module, and even replaced the Engine Control Module. Still “Code 22.” Buick says to tow it in and, for about $100, they will do a diagnostic on the car. I’m a single parent with limited resources.

ASE-certified mechanics nearby say that, 95 percent of the time, the problem is the control module, which I have replaced to no avail. The battery is new, and so are most of the ignition parts. I would love to hear your ideas of what to try next.

Incidentally, I deliver The Spokesman-Review, which is the local paper your column appears in.

Thanks.

— C.Z., Cheney, Wash.

A: It sounds like you’ve covered most of the bases, but unless you’ve skipped over something, one base is still uncovered.

You say that code 22 says “throttle-position-sensor voltage problems and/or fuel-relay circuit open or grounded.” You’ve replaced the throttle-position sensor, so that leaves “fuel-relay circuit open or grounded” as the most likely suspect in your case.

I’m puzzled by your apparently having ignored the second part of code 22. Nowhere in your letter do you mention that this possibility was investigated, so it seems to me that this should be your next step.

Check to see if this is where the trouble lies — or have the Buick dealer do it, which will probably be less expensive in the long run. My guess is that the clue to a successful fix is in the second part of the code 22 message.

AMERICAN DRIVERS FIGHT BACK

Here’s a tip that will help you get better gas mileage while fighting terrorism and cutting our nation’s dependence on Mideastern oil:

Here’s a gas-saving maintenance tip for older cars: If you do your own tuneups, it’s a good idea to work on the distributor, spark plugs and timing before you do carburetor adjustments.

Why? Because ignition can affect the carburetion. For a better, truer tuneup, adjust the carburetor last and enjoy maximal mileage and top performance from your vehicle.

The same applies for newer cars, incidentally, except with “fuel injection” substituted for “carburetor.” Spark plugs and timing should be changed and adjusted first, and only after that should any work on the fuel-injection system — a cleaning, for example, or the replacement of a bad injector — be done.

This approach provides a more accurate tuneup, and results in your getting maximal fuel economy.