Chef blends Mexican, Asian cuisines for delicious combo

He had a vision. Even at age 12 when he worked in the kitchens of his father’s two restaurants in Acapulco, he was determined to become a chef. Chef and restaurant owner Richard Sandoval has seen his vision materialize.

In 1982, when he was old enough to leave his native Mexico, he went to California, where he learned all he could about its foods. Then in 1989, he enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. After graduation he returned to his father’s kitchens and delved into Mexican cuisine. But his sights were on New York City.

He returned to the United States and, as it was said at the time, “he made a splash” — strangely enough not in Mexican but in French restaurants.

His next goal was to, as he said, “raise Mexican cuisine to a higher level, as the French and Italian chefs did with theirs.” He wanted to dispel the perception that Mexican food is tacos, burritos, chili, beans and rice, and guacamole. In 1997, Chef Sandoval opened Maya, his first New York City restaurant. In 1999, Maya Taqueria opened in San Francisco. In 2001 Denver got Tamayo, a casual Modern Mexican restaurant. It was so well-received that two years later he launched a second one there, Zenga, featuring Latin-Asian food.

In March of 2004, Sandoval teamed with opera tenor Placido Domingo to open Pampano, Modern Mexican Seafood in New York City. On a recent extensive menu, only one meat dish was listed. His latest opening was Isla Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Bar at Treasure Island in Las Vegas in June of 2004.

Perhaps his boldest move is a Maya that he will open in 2005 in Dubai.

When I asked Chef Sandoval how he keeps his various restaurants at the top without his personal attention, he said, “I have a superb team of chefs and staff.”

Here now is one of his Pampano dishes adapted for the home “chef.” For Won Ton Tacos With Mango Salsa, you will want top-quality tuna. Sashimi grade is available in good supermarkets, specialty food shops and reliable fish markets. Gyoza wrappers are the Japanese version of won ton or dumpling wrappers.

Won Ton Tacos With Mango Salsa

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon grape seed or canola oil

1 four-ounce block sashimi grade tuna

1 quart canola oil

4 pieces gyoza wrappers or Chinese dumpling or won ton wrappers

1 1/2 cups diced mango from Mexico

1 tablespoon minced red onion

1 tablespoon mashed mango*

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro leaves (save stems for garnish)

1 tablespoon vinegar

Salt and pepper

To prepare tuna, heat wok or sautì pan smoking hot; turn off heat. Add sesame and grape seed oils; char tuna on each side for 5 seconds; remove tuna and let rest. Cut tuna into thin slices.

To prepare wrappers, in a wok heat the quart of canola oil to 350 F. With tongs, fold wrappers like a taco; deep fry until golden brown and crisp. Prepare won ton filling by combining diced mango, onion, mashed mango, cilantro, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble, line each wrapper with tuna slices; spoon filling into wrappers, dividing equally. Serve with guacamole, sushi rice, pickled ginger and cilantro, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

*Note: Mango can be mashed with a fork or muddler, to make a puree.