Living on ”Kootenay Time”

When planning a summer getaway, it’s easy to forget that, although an entirely different country, Canada is a mere two-hour drive from Spokane.

With rising gas prices, anxiety over national security and the overall comfort factor of home, many Inland Northwest residents may stay close to home this summer for their holidays and, really, it’s no wonder. Many say exotic destinations are simply too far and expensive to get to, and others find that dealing with customs, borders and luggage searches causes more stress than the holiday is supposed to relieve in the first place.

In reality, though, our cousins to the north have more in common with the average American than any other country in the world. Sure, they may pronounce the odd word a little differently, and carry a colorful currency in their wallets, but for the most part, Canada is the simplest way for Americans to vacation in another country, and it can be done without venturing too far from home.

Nelson

Just over three hours’ drive from downtown Spokane, on the Westernmost tip of Kootenay Lake, lies the city of Nelson, British Columbia. While modest in size compared to many other Canadian destination cities, Nelson makes up for in quality what some may feel it lacks in scale.

Nelson’s simplicity and honesty make the trip worth the while. The vibe here is nearly impossible to describe – as though simply being in this town slows down time and allows you to see the multitude of things happening around you without even trying. And, with boundless scenery as colorful and bright as some of the town’s characters, there is much to take in.

As you’re lulled by this mysterious sense of serenity, it’s only a matter of time before the locals tell you that you’re living on “Kootenay Time” – a phrase describing what you have been sensing since your arrival. In BC’s Kootenay Rockies (where you’ll find Nelson snuggled smack-dab in the middle), life is lived at a slower pace. Some may say this laid-back tempo is due to the area’s herbal-induced stereotype, but that card is heavily overplayed, according to locals. They defiantly insist that the green “cash crop,” for which B.C. has become synonymous outside the province, has very little to do with the lifestyle enjoyed in the region. It’s simply a state of mind – a way of living life, not letting life live you – a way of setting priorities that, somehow, slows time down.

Blaylock’s Mansion

To some, there is no better way to make the most of the Nelson area than to check into the luxurious Blaylock’s Mansion, located just 10 minutes north of Nelson, overlooking the north shore of the majestic Kootenay Lake. The mansion, built as a summer home for Selwyn G. Blaylock, president of Cominco Mines at that time, is an expansive and awe-inspiring piece of early century architecture on grounds that will make any gardener green with envy.

The home was acquired by Dan and Louise McGauley years ago. With surprisingly little deviation from or renovation to the original interior, it was turned into a 4- 1/2 star luxury bed and breakfast, featuring an incredibly wide variety of spa treatments, massages, game rooms and a museum’s worth of Kootenay history adorning its walls.

Guests are treated to down-filled pillows of the highest quality and non-allergenic feather beds. Each day the owners prepare guests a gourmet breakfast, including their own homemade granola, fresh fruit and many other delicious treats. (The egg in a blanket with a side of pickled spiced eggplant is especially decadent.)

After breakfast, guests can schedule spa treatments, take a walk through the seemingly endless flower-and-original-rock gardens, or play tennis at the on-site courts.

Reservations are recommended, as the Mansion’s seven rooms are in high-demand; the location also is available for weddings.

Ainsworth Hot Springs

Up Highway 3a, about 35 minutes north of Blaylock’s lies a resort hotel with a supernatural secret that draws tourists and locals time and again. Despite first impressions, it’s not just another roadside hotel with a pool, it’s a gift from Mother Nature.

Thanks to the magic of faults, lava and seismic activity, the 43-room Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort is located at the head of a spring that emerges from the earth at 107 degrees. Back at the turn of the century, local miners, who created a hot springs relaxation cave to enjoy a soak after a hard day’s work, discovered this location.

After the bottom fell out of the silver market, the miners left town in the late-‘50s. The hot springs were haphazardly run until the resort’s owners, husband and wife Norm and Joyce Mackie, acquired them decades later. Joyce’s father saw the value in the springs years earlier when he purchased the land. The couple took over in 1983 and built the sizeable adjoined hotel and refurbished the hot springs cave and pool. Then, the resort quickly became a tourism mainstay in the Nelson area.

Although the public can soak in the springs, heated pool and near-freezing cold dip for a fee from 10 a.m. to closing, guests of the hotel are given 90 exclusive minutes to enjoy the hot springs before the popular destination fills up.

While the hot springs are a year-round destination, the Mackies say that summer is their peak time, and recommend reservations be placed at least two weeks in advance to ensure guests a room on the weekend they desire.

The resort also is able to arrange golf getaways in conjunction with the multitude of local courses, something guests are encouraged to inquire about when making a reservation.

Depth of Nelson

While the tourist spots, spa outings and natural wonders of Nelson can’t be beat, it is the city’s charm and character that give it the depth so many outsiders never fully discover. In fact, Nelson is home to one of Canada’s richest arts scenes, a facet that can be experienced firsthand at any one of the numerous shops in the downtown commercial area. Everywhere you look there are unique creations. All are created locally, so visitors can be sure each is one-of-a-kind and, surprisingly, fairly priced.

Outdoors-types are always encouraged to experience Nelson’s hiking trail networks, in addition to bringing along their biggest, baddest mountain bike for what are considered among the best freeride trails on earth, made famous by local riders and filmmakers alike. Stop by Gerrick Cycle & Sports or the Sacred Ride and you will undoubtedly be greeted by a warm, enthusiastic guide who will take you on the adventure of a lifetime in exchange for dinner or a drink afterward.

While living on Kootenay Time may not be everyone’s cup of tea as a full-time way of life, it certainly is the best possible way to make the most of vacation time and, thanks to a wide variety of lodging, activities, restaurants and local color, Nelson, British Columbia, should be tops on this summer’s list of destinations.