Squealing noise? Check your brakes

Dear Bob: I have a 1994 Mercury Marquis. I had the brakes replaced about a year ago, and they have squealed ever since. I talked to the installer about it six months ago, and they said it took time for the brakes to set.

Now it has been over a year, and they’re still squealing. It is really embarrassing and nerve-racking when driving, and everyone tells me that I need new brakes.

What is your opinion?

— W.B., Blue Springs, Mo.

A: If the old brakes on your car didn’t squeal, then you can be fairly sure that it’s the new brakes, and not some other component of the braking system, that are responsible for the squealing noise.

And, if the new brakes squealed from day one, I doubt that you need new brakes. It is more than likely the material from which the brakes were made that is causing the squealing noise. And, unfortunately, there is not much you can do about it.

After a year of driving, the brakes should be broken-in and set, as the installer advised. Since your brakes are still squealing, however, it’s likely that they will continue to squeal until they are replaced.

There are some spray solutions that can be applied to the brakes to stop them from squealing, but the solutions will provide only temporary relief, and the brakes will eventually start to squeal again.

The only way to permanently stop the brakes from squealing is to have them replaced. If you choose to do this, be certain that the new brake pads are made with anti-squeal materials. You might even ask the installer to provide a written guarantee that the new brakes won’t squeal.

Dear Bob: I get an on-and-off, sometimes strong, smell of antifreeze inside my car. It seems to be most prevalent during cold weather, especially on cold mornings. Then, as the day warms, it seems to go away.

I have looked for leaks in the cooling system, but everything seems to be fine, and there is no appreciable loss of antifreeze in the cooling system itself.

Any idea where the odor is coming from?

Sincerely,

— A.S., via e-mail

A: If no leaks are present in the cooling system that is located under the hood, then check the cooling and heating system that is located under that dash. It is possible that this is the location of the leak. When the heater is turned on, in cold weather, for example, a few drops of antifreeze may be coming into contact with parts of the heater, and the blower is then sending the odor into the car’s cabin. It’s worth a look.

Dear Bob: I purchased a 1999 Buick Century about a year ago. It had 35,000 miles on it at the time. When starting the car cold, there is a significant clicking noise coming from the engine, which goes away as the engine heats up. My mechanic says that this happens to all of these engines.

It does not seem to affect the overall performance of the car.

Can you help determine the cause, and a cure, if necessary?

Thanks,

— D.M., Nassau, N.Y.

A: Clicking or tapping noises that are heard when starting a cold engine, and that gradually go away as the engine warms, can usually be traced to the metal-to-metal clicking of the hydraulic valve lifters. Worn lifters will click until they receive a sufficient amount of oil.

While no major damage is being done by the noisy lifters, the sound can be discomforting.

One thing that may help minimize the noise, is to switch to a lower-viscosity oil, such as a 5W-20. A lower-viscosity oil will flow more freely in cold temperatures, and will lubricate and fill the hydraulic lifters faster than would a heavier, or high-viscosity oil.

AMERICAN DRIVERS FIGHT BACK

Here’s a tip that will help you get better gas mileage while fighting terrorism and cutting our nation’s dependence on Mideastern oil:

The EPA fuel-economy labels that are affixed to the windows of new vehicles show the vehicle’s estimated city and highway mpg in large type. Below these numbers, in smaller type, is a further explanation of these estimates, which states that the “actual mileage may vary with options, driving conditions, driving habits and vehicle’s condition.”

The explanation provides a range for both city mpg and highway mpg, which is based on the fuel-economy range that most drivers have achieved with that particular model. For example, a vehicle that is estimated at 24 mpg city and 31 mpg highway, is stated as having an estimated mpg range of between 20 mpg to 28 mpg city, and between 26 mpg and 36 mpg highway.

The lower figure is a more realistic assessment of the true fuel-economy potential that most drivers will achieve with that particular vehicle. It is the aim of American Drivers Fight Back, however, to help drivers come as close to the higher fuel-economy-potential estimates as possible.