Chef-owned eateries new trend in Seattle

Sun., Jan. 1, 2006

Tom Sietsema The Washington Post

The latest dining trend in Seattle: small, highly personal, chef-owned restaurants popping up in mostly residential neighborhoods.

From a recent tour, here are my picks of the crop:

“Boat Street Kitchen (3131 Western Ave., 206-323-7132): Tucked away in a complex of work lofts, this spare, light-filled cafe makes an ideal lunch spot. The menu offers something for every appetite: herbed roast pork sandwiches for the carnivore, creamy oyster stew for the seafood lover, a silken pumpkin flan for sweet tooths. Bonus: All of the wines by the glass are a mere $5. (Entrees $8.75-$10.50)

“Elementalgasworks (3309 Wallingford Ave. N., 206-547-2317): Owners Phred Westfall (he whips up drinks) and Laurie Riedman (she cooks) play by their own rules at their spare but chic eatery, which doesn’t take reservations, forbids tipping and has room for fewer than 20 diners.

The couple treat everyone like house guests – cocktails and truffle-scented popcorn appear without your even asking – and part of the fun of an evening here is watching Riedman prepare dinner, solo, just feet in front of you. The choices change every Tuesday; highlights have run to short ribs with a garlic waffle and green-chili cheesecake. (Dishes $9-$16)

“Veil (555 Aloha St., 206-216-0600): The chairs, the tables, the walls – everything is white at the 50-seat Veil. “We thought the food would be the art,” says co-owner Erik Lindstrom, nodding to the appealing plates created by chef Shannon Galusha, a veteran of the esteemed French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley.

Picture pedigreed ingredients – artichoke soup with Parma ham, dry-aged steak with heirloom carrots – and flavors that sing. (Entrees $23-$29)

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Chef-owned eateries new trend in Seattle

Jesse Tinsley

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