Natural area relieves lawn-care blues

Q. Even though my backyard is less than an acre, it is getting way too hard to cut the grass each year. I’d like to turn the back area into a natural area. I have some bamboo at the back fence and would like to keep that, but do not know how to start the rest of it. Any suggestions?
A. At its simplest, a natural area is a portion of your property unplanted in grass and dressed up with mulch and shrubs or perennials selected to suit the amount of sunshine it gets. Your reason — the burden of mowing such a large property — is a common reason for converting lawn to natural area.
Though it sounds like an uncomplicated task, this is not something to rush into without serious thought. There will be some expense: the cost of herbicide to kill the grass, mulch and any plants you wish to add. A blank natural area is not very interesting to look at. Plus, there will be weeds to deal with annually.
But, you will reduce your mowing and the cost of seed, fertilizer and water that you used to keep that portion of the lawn looking good.
So, with those pros and cons in mind, do this first. Take your garden hose and use it to define the edge of the area you think you wish to make natural. Rather than a straight line, aim for a graceful curves for an interesting sweep, especially if there are mature trees to consider.
Then, look at it for a while, perhaps a week or more. Move the hose in or out. See how you and others in the family like it. Think about what kind of edge you want: a sharp, well-defined cut of the lawn or perhaps a frill of monkey grass.
Once you’ve settled on the amount of space you wish to turn natural, kill the grass. Once it is dead, cover the area with mulch such as pine needles and add new plants. It is possible that some grass may escape the first round of herbicide. This should be easy to dig up or spray it again.
Keep in mind that mulch is not permanent. Pine needles break down and require replenishment annually to look spiffy.
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Q. Slugs are eating my petunias, which aren’t blooming very well to begin with. They get about three hours of direct sunlight and the rest of the day indirect sun. Any ideas?
A. As long as it is indirect sun and not shade through the day, your petunias should be fine as far as meeting their light requirements. Indirect sunlight is better for petunias than hot, afternoon sun in the summer.
However, the plants need protection from slug damage with one of the baits or traps created for slug control. There is a product called Escar-Go! made from iron phosphate with a bait. It makes the slugs lose their appetite and die within two or three days, the company says. It does not dissipate in rain either.
Next your petunias need fertilizer to boost their bloom power. Liquid products formulated for annuals should do the job. In the meantime, pinch off spent blooms, and give the tips of the plants a pinch to encourage branching.
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Q. I have had a peace lily for a couple of years in a western-facing window in my den. It gets some diffused afternoon sun, and I water it once a week with my other house plants and fertilize about once a month in warm weather. It has not bloomed since I received it. Some small blooms have started, but then they turn brown and die. The plant itself looks very healthy and has new growth coming up, but some older leaves have brown tips. What can I do to get this plant to bloom?
A. Since your plant showed signs of young blooms, you are giving it the right amount of fertilizer and sunlight. The problem is elsewhere. The browning of foliage and buds is due to either low humidity or underwatering — possibly both. A house can possess very dry air, especially when the furnace or air conditioning is running.
Either put your plant outside in the shadiest spot you’ve got, and I mean really shady. Or keep it indoors, but set the plant on a saucer of small rocks and water. The rocks will keep the bottom of the pot from sitting in water and keeping the soil soggy. But the water will evaporate and raise the moisture level around the plant. Misting the plant regularly will also help raise the humidity. Try to keep the soil evenly moist. Don’t let it dry out at all.