Drive it forever : Trouble keeping bike rack aboard

Dear Mike: I have this really nice bike rack that attaches to my trailer hitch receiver. I have to dismantle the rack to get into my apartment and put it away, which is easy. What’s hard is keeping it from dismantling itself on long trips.

How can I keep the bolts from getting loose if they are threaded into holes and there is no locknut I can replace? Lockwashers just shave the aluminum off the rack and come loose.

A: I would use some threadlocker, either a liquid or a gel. This goo is an anaerobic compound. It flows in the presence of air, but when you spread it onto the threads of a fastener and tighten down, oxygen can’t get to it. The threadlocker then polymerizes and effectively keeps the fastener from turning.

There are quality products from several manufacturers. They come in dropper bottles, lipstick-like tubes and gel-dispensing tubes. You’ll want to get blue compound, which is the industry standard for a medium-strength product. Red threadlocker is intended for fasteners that normally aren’t removed without the application of heat and a large amount of torque.

“Start with a clean set of threads, both male and female. To clean yours, use mineral spirits or carb or brake cleaner. There is also an aerosol-spray cleaner/primer that will shorten the setting time in addition to cleaning the threads.

“Add enough threadlocker to the joint to wet the threads — usually a single drop is sufficient — then tighten normally. To remove the fastener, simply unthread it. You’ll feel a fair amount of initial resistance, and then the pieces will come apart easily.

“Clean and reapply every time the parts are assembled. But don’t touch the bolt to the dispensing nipple on the container or you’ll transfer metal ions to the plastic. That contamination will eventually render the entire vial of threadlocker useless.

Dear Mike: I would like to know whether you can safely jumpstart a car that has some sort of on-board computer fuel-control system.

A: Properly jumpstarting a car will not damage any on-board electronics. Improperly jumpstarting, however, is another story.

For one thing, using more than 12 volts might damage the car’s computer. Some older tow truck drivers might still try to start the car with 24 volts, to ensure a speedy start and to get the tow truck back on the road in a hurry.

Another way to damage the electrical system is to use an electric welder on the car without proper precautions.

Dear Mike: Mostly after it has been raining, when I turn my steering wheel to go either left or right I hear a loud squeak/squawk, sometimes high in pitch and sometimes low in pitch.

At first, it happened only when I turned to the left. Then it started when I turned to the right. Now it happens when I am sitting with the wheels straight. What is this and what can be done to fix it?

A: The squawking noise is the power-steering pump slipping its belt. Replace it.

Dear Mike: I have a 1975 Ford Supercab. I keep it outside, but not under a tree. After a rain, the air-cleaner housing, where you place the air cleaner, is full of water. Everything is where it’s supposed to be — hoses, wing nuts, etc. The cover is on. I cannot see or tell where or how water is getting in.

Also, I have checked the oil stick and have seen water on the stick. And the truck will not start until the oil is changed.

I’ve had this truck for almost 10 years, and this is the first time this has happened. I need to get this cleared up, as I want to sell truck.

A: I’ll guess it’s condensation. Try this: Drape a plastic bag over the top of the air cleaner so that it extends below the housing, 360 degrees around. Check daily. If the water still shows up, it’s condensation and there’s nothing you can do about it except move the truck indoors — or move to a warmer climate.

Dear Mike: The dash lights for the heater and A/C are out on my 1998 Nissan minivan. I cannot read the controls at night.

I checked the fuse and all is working. Any suggestions?

A: I’d start by checking the bulb.