Drive in the countryside

The National Transportation Department has selected only three roads in Idaho to be designated as “America’s Byways.” One of the three is within easy driving distance from Kootenai County.

Pend Oreille Scenic Byway is not only a pretty drive, but much of the countryside still looks like what North Idaho was 50 years ago.

To be called a National Byway, a stretch of highway must be considered a destination in itself. The title is based on archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational and scenic qualities. The definition of a national byway states: “The road must provide an exceptional traveling experience so recognized by travelers that they would make a drive along the highway a primary reason for their trip.”

This 33-mile road, Highway 200, runs east out of Sandpoint toward the Montana border. At first the byway passes through farm country with some wonderful old barns and cultivated fields. Rural, agricultural Idaho still exists if you look for it.

But the views change to a water panorama as the road hugs the shoreline of the Pack River and Denton Slough. Ducks, geese and motionless blue herons can be seen as they wait for unsuspecting fish to swim by. It isn’t unusual to see deer along the shoreline and an occasional moose browsing in the shallow water or on the golf course that is passed by.

The highway then skirts the northern shore of Lake Pend Oreille. Bays, islands and the distant shore with mountains as a backdrop provide lots to see. The lake is actually 43 miles long and 6 miles wide, which make it the largest lake in Idaho. It is also the fifth deepest lake in the nation.

It’s refreshing to pass through small towns that are on this route. In Kootenai County we seem to be overwhelmed with cars, commercial buildings and housing developments. Town boundaries connect with each other.

There still really are towns in North Idaho that are undersized – towns with populations akin to: Clark Fork (530), Hope (78), East Hope (200) and Beyond Hope (?). Just don’t blink as you travel from end to end. It would be a safe guess that most of the residents of these towns would not trade their lifestyles.

There are several turnouts along the byway that provide interesting information about the area. Two signs describe the result of one of the largest geological events on Earth. During the last glacial period a huge lake was formed and damned east of Idaho in Montana. The dam eventually broke and formed the area that now has a very deep lake and an awesome view.

At Denton Slough there are exhibits describing the water fowl that are frequently seen swimming and feeding in the nearby water. Another sign at a pullout explains the large and small mammals that live and may be seen along the highway.

Accommodations

This short, scenic highway can be easily seen in a day. However, the recreational opportunities, especially in the summer, might tempt some to make an overnight stay.

For those who tent camp or have an RV, there is a nice U.S. Forest Service campground whose turnoff is about two-thirds along the byway. Sam Owen campground is named after the man who donated the land in 1940. He gave the land “for the benefit of local people and visitors.” There are 80 camp sites in two loops. One loop accommodates tents, and the other loop has larger and longer spaces for RV parking. However, there are no hookups.

For those in RVs who want power and water, there is Beyond Hope Resort, adjacent to Sam Owen and sharing the beach and shoreline. The resort also has a restaurant. A byway culinary hint: just east of the Sam Owen campground on Highway 200 there is a gas station with two red gas pumps. Inside the building there is a gift shop with a breakfast bar in the rear. Huckleberry pancakes are their specialty, and they are good. For those who have not tried huckleberries, this is one of the places go.

Finally, after passing through the town of Clark Fork, follow the river upstream into Montana and turn around at Cabinet Gorge Dam, where there are views of the dam and the Clark Fork River. This drive is an American designated scenic attraction. It is just another reason why we choose to live and work in Idaho.