The Royal Scotsman Taking The Low Road In High Style Sit Back And Enjoy Pampering Fit For Royalty As You Roll Through The Countryside Of Scotland

Whether to travel by road or by rail - when it comes to touring Scotland, the decision is easy. You could hop in a car and travel by road from windswept highland to verdant glen, from stormy coast to tranquil loch, and from cosmopolitan city to rural hamlet. But for a carefree, pampered vacation, why not step on board the Royal Scotsman, one of the world’s classiest trains, and leave the driving to the chief engineer?

This elegant, mobile country house on wheels rates as the most civilized way to arrive in Scotland and to discover its scenic heartland. While riding in style, you take in the country’s striking landscapes, enjoy intriguing side trips and meet friendly townsfolk on an off-the-beaten-track railroad journey which takes you through miles of rugged countryside unblemished by high-rises or highways.

On the afternoon of our train departure from London’s Paddington Station, a bagpiper clad in a tartan kilt greeted us with a medley of lively Scottish tunes. As the strains of his bonnie songs echoed through the cavernous railway depot, three workmen ceremoniously rolled out a red carpet to cover a wee bit of the bare concrete platform.

A crowd began to gather. Commuters, day-trippers and a handful of long-distance rail travelers watched the proceedings with open curiosity. “Who’s coming?” asked a young woman, her wide-eyed child in tow. “The Queen?”

We passengers, a group of 32 maximum, giggled and tried to be nonchalant, knowing the reason for the fanfare. Should we tell the others that the bagpiper and the red carpet were meant for us? We were about to embark on a exceptional journey on a grand train reminiscent of a bygone era.

Within minutes, the Royal Scotsman slipped smoothly into the station. Large gold letters announcing the train’s identity marched across the sides of the nine gleaming burgundy red coaches. Formal dining tables set with china and crystal were visible through several of the spotless carriage windows.

To the dismay of the inquisitive onlookers, no famous celebrities stepped off the train. Instead, we travelers from the United States, Europe and Australia climbed on board and promptly gathered in the rear observation car to enjoy a glass of champagne and properly toast the train’s eminent departure.

From April through October, The Royal Scotsman transports a handful of highly pampered passengers from London to Edinburgh before beginning its leisurely circuit around Scotland. A high-speed train can cover the first part of the trip in a mere five hours, but this luxurious train meanders along the route for a one-of-a-kind, five-day Scottish adventure.

During the day, the train travels over lesser used tracks, offering passengers matchless views of England’s verdant rolling hills and Scotland’s heather-clad highlands, cobalt blue lochs and picturesque villages.

“Now I see where tweed comes from,” commented a passenger from Florida who was captivated by the muted greens, blues and lavenders of the passing landscape. For some visitors, seeing the splendid harmony of nature’s palette alone is worth the trip.

Unlike most trains, the Royal Scotsman is not simply a means of transport. Each day, it makes scheduled station stops for fascinating sidetrips.

Like the train, these tours are also unique. Whenever possible, visits are held after normal opening hours and are, therefore, intimate and exclusive.

Often, the owner of a rambling castle or manor house welcomes the small train group with a glass of wine or champagne or invites them to stay for tea in the parlor.

Who better to have as an entertaining and well-informed guide than the lord or lady of the manor?

At Inverawe Smokehouse, for example, proprietors Robert and Rosie Campbell-Preston take guests to see the salting tables and oak-chip smokers before inviting them to their home for a sampling of smoked fish and meat delicacies.

No matter where the tour, stewards welcome passengers back on board the train with smiles and refreshing beverages.

While a diesel engine powers the train most of the time, passengers on the Scotland tour are in for a special thrill. An old-fashioned steam locomotive hauls the train over a particularly scenic stretch of track that crosses the magnificent arched Glenfinnan Viaduct and leads west to the Atlantic coast. Run-bys are made so that photo buffs may join local train spotters and capture the event on film.

Every night the Royal Scotsman comes to rest in a quiet station, assuring a peaceful sleep as well as elegant, undisturbed dining.

While daytime dress on board is casual and comfortable, gentlemen are requested to wear a jacket and tie, tuxedo or - of course - a kilt for formal dinners. Women don cocktail dresses. A few wear wide-brimmed hats, at least for pre-dinner cocktails in the rear lounge, where a local string trio or Highland fiddler is likely to provide entertainment using the open-air observation platform as a stage.

Following hors d’oeuvres in the lounge, candlelight dinner is served in two wood-paneled dining cars dating from 1945 and 1960. Meal service comes with silver, china, crystal, and white linen napkins tied with red satin bows. Chef Graham Newbould prepares menus of regional dishes that take full advantage of fresh produce, fish and meat that he purchases along the way. Dishes range from Dover sole with wild mushrooms to duckling with caramelized apples and red cabbage to roast Borders lamb.

“Watch out for the shot,” Donald, our waiter, cautioned one evening as he served an attractive plate of sliced poultry and hazelnut dressing topped with a delicate wine sauce. “The wood pigeon was freshly caught this morning.”

After dinner, most passengers return to the lounge, a handsome restored carriage originally built in 1908 and the social hub of the Royal Scotsman. There is seating for all 32 passengers in soft sofas and plush armchairs. Charming young stewards and stewardesses offer coffee and after-dinner liqueurs (all beverages are included in the fare), and the atmosphere in the parlor gets livelier as the night wears on.

“I could live on this train,” Ida, a widow from Australia, enthused one evening.

It was her second trip, and the crew presented her with a surprise birthday cake baked in the shape of the hat she usually wore.

“It’s like being in a bubble removed from reality,” agreed Frieda from New York. “This is total pampering with no need to make any decisions.”

When it finally comes time to retire, passengers disperse to their beautifully appointed sleeping compartments, some paneled in mahogany. Every bed is a lower one (no upper berths to pull down) whether in the four single or fourteen twin cabins.

All compartments feature a full-length wardrobe, vanity, safe, hair dryer, ceiling fan, individual heating controls and windows that open for fresh air. Best of all is the private, modern bathroom in each unit that contains not only a sink, toilet and heated towel rack, but a shower too.

“We try to create a country house atmosphere where people can relax and feel at home,” explained Richard Tibbott, one of three partners who began operating the train in 1985.

Judging from the enthusiastic notes written by passengers in the memory book kept in the dining car bookcase, the Royal Scotsman has indeed succeeded.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go THE TRAIN: The Royal Scotsman operates from April through October with special trips also scheduled during Christmas holidays. Three-day, two-night trips between London and Edinburgh cost $1,950 per person in either a twin or single cabin. The five-day, four-night tour of Scotland begins and ends in Edinburgh and costs $3,590 per person. The two trips may be combined for a reduced rate of $4,980. Prices include rail transportation, escorted tours, all meals and beverages. Only tips are extra. For reservations and information contact your travel agent or Abercrombie & Kent at (800) 323-7308. STAYING THERE: For a pre-train visit to London, why not choose a fittingly regal hotel? Claridge’s has catered to heads of state for over 100 years, combining a long tradition of topdrawer service with elegant, modern comforts. From $350 double. The recently restored Langham Hilton has it all - history, ambiance, a central location and friendly ghost. When The Langham opened in 1865, it was one of London’s finest addresses. From $300 double. Passengers staying in Scotland might want to disembark at Gleneagles, a magnificent hotel featuring horseback riding, falconry and a renowned golf course. From $250 double. Travel agents can make reservations at any of these. RECOMMENDED READING: For general travel information, read “Insight Guides Scotland” (Houghton Mifflin). To discover the secrets hidden behind castle walls, try “Scottish Castles” (Lochar Publishing). “A Traveler’s History of Scotland,” by Andrew Fisher (Interlink Books) outlines historical details in a readable fashion. MORE INFORMATION: Information and brochures on Scotland may be obtained from the British Tourist Authority, 551 Fifth Ave., Suite 701, New York, NY 10176; (800) 462-2748.