Two-Wheeled Adventure Bicycling Trip A Great Way To See San Juan Islands

‘They’re flat, right?” asked my friend JoAnne when I proposed a five-day biking trip on Washington’s San Juan Islands.

“It says rolling in the brochure, whatever that means,” I assured her.

And so, with this limited understanding of the terrain, we signed up.

A 100-million-year-old mountain range turned archipelago, the San Juan Islands multiply from 428 to 743 at low tide. Scattered around Puget Sound in the Pacific Ocean, many of the islands are tiny, and only 172 actually have names. We would be bicycling on three of the largest - San Juan, Orcas and Lopez.

When we spotted a van with bicycles on top outside our Seattle hotel, we figured it must be for us. Sure enough, we were greeted by our two guides, Lon and Chris, who introduced us to our tour mates.

We took off to the north for the seaside town of Anacortes, port for the San Juan Island ferries.

After picking up two more tour members at an Anacortes hotel, we headed for Washington Park to try out our bikes.

Backcountry, the Bozeman outfitter running our tour, has been in the biking vacations business for 11 years, and has the system down pat. Thanks to questionnaires about height and weight filled out prior to the trip, our bikes were already assigned and close to perfect fits. After minor adjustments and a sack-lunch distribution, we were as ready as we’d ever be to hit the road.

Chris pointed to a twisting piece of asphalt that disappeared into the trees and looked anything but flat. “We’ll catch you at the top,” he announced cheerfully.

“I don’t like the looks of this,” hissed JoAnne.

This was no one’s idea of flat or rolling; this was up hill. We couldn’t whine much, though, since we needed all our wind for breathing. And I admit the vista at the top was spectacular - a bird’s-eye view of Rosario Strait and scattered islands.

As we ate lunch on a grassy spot overlooking the water, Lon and Chris went over the plans for the next 5-1/2 days. We would travel at our own pace, with plenty of options and side trips. One guide would drive along the designated route in a van, while the other bicycled with the group. This way, if one of us was bicycled out, we could catch a ride. The mileage varied each day, with the last day offering almost 60 miles of biking.

Chris, a tall, thin drink of water in his 20s, explained that no one need go hungry on this trip. “All you have to do,” he announced, “is yell CALORIE EMERGENCY, and I’ll be there with a snack.” Bicycling or not, this could get fattening.

We got on the ferry headed for San Juan Island - the largest and most populated of the chain. When we arrived in San Juan’s main town of Friday Harbor, we each were given a detailed mile-by-mile itinerary, including side trips and mileage options. These fit into a black pouch that Velcroed to our handlebars. This way we could follow the route without stopping.

Helmeted and eager, we hit the road. It quickly became evident that Backcountry’s idea of “rolling” and JoAnne’s and mine where somewhat different. A couple of the hills were real grunters. Were it not for our state-of-the-art mountain bikes, we would never have made it to the top.

If the terrain was more challenging than we had expected, it was also prettier. Unpolluted blue skies, white billowy clouds and miles of rolling green fields dotted with red barns, ponds and fir trees surrounded us. Light traffic, temperatures in the low 70s, a soft breeze blowing - let’s face it, biking conditions don’t get much better than this.

We rolled into the States Inn Bed and Breakfast in time for a quick shower before the barbecue. Fiddle players serenaded us while we gobbled up chicken, ribs, beans, cole slaw, garlic bread and fresh strawberry shortcake. With meals like this, we were going to have to do some powerful biking if we wanted to maintain our figures.

After a lavish breakfast - yikes, more irresistible food - we set off for a full day of biking. Our first stop was at Lime Kiln State Park for whale watching. Alas, we didn’t spot any whales, so we pressed on to our lunch spot.

It was hard to believe we were hungry again. But, there we sat on logs by the shore, wolfing down vegetable and goat cheese pizzas, fresh fruit and cookies.

We bicycled back into Friday Harbor, where the van picked up those who wanted a ride back to the States Inn. The heartier souls opted for human propulsion.

The next morning we boarded the ferry for our second island stop, Orcas. We had been warned that this terrain would be the most challenging. Hillier than the others, Orcas even had a mountain for those eager to burn extra calories.

A light drizzle was falling by the time the ferry docked. Steeled for 16 miles of hilly biking ahead, we set off. The island was more wooded than San Juan, and definitely steeper. My bike’s fantastic gearing system helped me conquer every hill but one. By the time I reached the Rosario Resort, I felt like I’d done some serious peddling.

Most of us opted for a break from biking the next day. Instead, we spent the morning kayaking and the afternoon hiking. However, one stalwart member of our group joined Chris for a bike ride up Mount Constitution. Not for the short-of-wind or weak-of-leg, the road twisted and climbed for almost five miles up to 2,400 feet.

The following day, we caught the mid-morning ferry for Lopez Island, the smallest and flattest we visited. Upon arrival, we saddled up for the last time. My biking legs were feeling pretty good, and there was plenty of time for a leisurely pace. We took a break at Agate Beach Day Park overlooking the sea, and soaked up some sun while Chris entertained us with wheelie demonstrations.

As we lined up in the late afternoon to catch the ferry back to the mainland, Chris opened the back of the van and uttered his nowfamiliar cry for the last time: “CALORlE EMERGENCY!” Cookies, fresh fruit and bite-sized candy bars came tumbling out of boxes and bags. “Can’t let ‘em go to waste, you know,” he declared, gleefully devouring a chocolate chip cookie.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO BACKCOUNTRY, LTD., P.O. Box 4029, Bozeman, MT 59772; (800) 575-1540. In June, July and September, Backcountry runs 5-1/2-day biking, hiking and kayaking tours on the San Juan Islands. Included in the price are all meals from lunch on day one to breakfast on day six, accommodations at inns, transportation from Seattle, van support, two guides and a bike (they use Trek’s 24-speed 970shx). Cost, based on double occupancy, is $1,335

BACKROADS, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710; (800) 462-2848. From June to September. Backroads offers both inn and camping versions of its biking, hiking and kayak trips on the San Juan Islands. Prices include all meals (except one dinner on inn trips), tents or accommodations at inns, transportation from Seattle, van support and guides. Bikes (21-speed Fuji touring models) can be rented for $109. Cost, based on double occupancy: $749 (camping), $1,298 (inns).

BICYCLE ADVENTURES, P.O. Box 7875, Olympia, WA 98507; (800) 443-6060. Bicycle Adventures offers biking, hiking and kayaking trips on the San Juan Islands. From May through October there are 8-, 6-and 4-day (biking only) inn trips. Once a month from May through September, this company offers a 5-day camping trip. Prices include, all meals, tents or accommodations in inns, transportation from Seattle, van support and two guides. Eighteen-and 21-speed customized bikes can be rented for $88-$128 depending on length of trip. Cost, based on double occupancy: 8-day inn trip $1,598; 6-day inn trip, $1,236, 4-day inn trip, $822; and 5-day camping trip, $628.