Queen’s Valley Showcases Royal Tombs

Sun., Dec. 15, 1996

Susan Kaye Special To Travel

Pharaohs buried their queens and their children in this scorched valley.

Barren of even cactus and burnt from millenniums of ruthless heat, it was an austere theater where the gods would play out the drama of royal death and resurrection.

In this parched stronghold, a queen’s spectacular tomb opened to the public in November 1995 after six years of restoration. Since its discovery in 1904, the fragility of its art has allowed only sporadic public tours.

It’s fitting that this, the most gorgeous tomb of the valley, should belong to Queen Nefertari, the Great Wife of Ramses II.

More than any Egyptian Queen, she was honored by her husband. Ramses II broke all precedent in displaying his affection, dedicating a temple to her at Abu Simbel, and portraying her in statues that equalled the height of his own.

In the third decade of Ramses’ rule during 13th century B.C., Queen Nefertari died at about age 40.

Ramses II ordered his most skilled craftsmen to decorate a seven-chambered tomb. The inscribed tribute named Nefertari as “possessor of charm, sweetness and love.”

After approximately $3 million in clean-up and humidity control, paid for largely by the Getty Conservation Institute of California, the sepulchre’s brilliant colors belie their 3,200 years.

But it’s the lyrical scenes that capture viewers. Graceful and slender Nefertari is shown with the gods of the underworld: her creamy, diaphanous robes are accented with elaborate gold neck collars, bracelets, jeweled rings, heavy earrings and jet-black wigs.

No wonder Ramses II was smitten. She’s simply fabulous.

If you go: If bacteria threaten the paintings, the tomb will be closed. For now, 150 visitors a day are allowed for a 10-minute stay. Groups are kept small; silence is requested.

The cost is $30 per person.

Tickets, good only on the day of purchase, are available from 6 a.m. at the ticket office. Tour guides can no longer purchase blocks of tickets; each visitor must buy his own.

When I visited in April, the entire boat chose to see the tomb. The tour operator, Abercrombie & Kent, made arrangements for a 6 a.m. Nile crossing; we arrived at the ticket office by 6:30 and there were still scores of tickets available.

If you’re on your own, catch a ferry across the Nile; on the west bank taxis are always available for about $15 round-trip.

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The following fields overflowed: DATELINE = VALLEY OF THE QUEENS, THEBES, EGYPT

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