From Fullers To Flying Fish, Bite Into Seattle’s Best

The dining scene in Seattle hasn’t always sizzled. Growing up in the Puget Sound area, I remember when Ivar’s was the ultimate seafood restaurant and Trader Vic’s was the most exotic spot in town. That’s nothing to get nostalgic about.

Now my biggest dilemma is that there are too many wonderful places from which to choose. The following is a list of some of my favorite places to splurge in Seattle (expect to spend $20 and up per person):

Fullers in The Seattle Sheraton came out on top in a reader’s poll printed in a recent issue of Gourmet magazine, and it’s easy to see why. ethnic eateries. Bathed in muted, neutral tones, the dining room has a quiet elegance interrupted only by the sighs of approval when the food begins arriving at the table.

Chef Monique Barbeau gives lowly ingredients the star treatment.

A savory celery root puree provides a gorgeous backdrop for citrus-dusted scallops, for instance. Beets are also favored, served crispy on the house salad, which is dressed with a roasted beet vinaigrette.

At Fullers, the food looks as wonderful as it tastes. An exquisitely seasoned squab on a bed of plump Israeli couscous resembled a tiny sculpture. (That didn’t stop me from digging in, though.) The best way to get the full flavor of the place is to indulge in the multicourse chef’s tasting menu, which includes some show-stopping desserts.

Fullers is located 1400 Sixth Ave. in the Seattle Sheraton.

For reservations, call (206) 447-5544.

Wild Ginger is distinguished by its global sensibilities. The menu combines the best traditions from China, Japan and Thailand using lots of Northwest ingredients.

Start with something from the satay bar - the grilled portobello mushrooms or a spicy chicken skewer, for instance.

Then, if you’re willing to get your hands dirty, order the curried crab. The Dungeness crab is pulled from a live tank, so it doesn’t get any fresher.

I feel so virtuous eating Wild Ginger’s monk curry with tofu and exotic Asian veggies in a spicy Thai sauce.

This is a big, boisterous room, where reservations are essential.

Wild Ginger is located at 1400 Western Ave., just down from The Pike Place Market.

For reservations, call (206) 623-4450.

Campagne is one of the coziest, most romantic dining rooms in the city. Ask for table 34, which offers a lovely view of the market and Elliott Bay.

Campagne’s unusual calamari appetizer consists of a steak coated with ground almonds. That treatment gives it a delicate taste and texture.

The seasonal menu focuses on the freshest seafood and produce.

Rejoice if that means the excellent seared sea scallops with velvety lobster mashed potatoes or the flavorful, ginger-spiked guinea hen.

Chef Tamara Murphy, last year’s James Beard award-winner for best Northwest chef, puts a new spin on salmon each night.

Campagne is located at 86 Pine St., adjacent to The Inn at the Market.

For reservations, call (206) 728-2800.

At Andaluca, the pretty plates the kitchen puts out vie for your eye with the restaurant’s drop-dead gorgeous decor, which includes a hand-painted mural and museumlike lighting fixtures.

I like the restaurant’s approach to eating - offering various plates and platters that are meant to be shared in addition to more traditional entrees.

Some of chef Don Curtiss’ menu is reminiscent of a Spanish tapas bar, with items such as mussels Madrid and potato-egg tortilla served with a sherry aioli.

Dungeness devotees should scale the “tower” - crab and avocado piled high and served with a zesty gazpacho salsa.

Andaluca is located in The Mayflower Park Hotel at 407 Olive Way.

For reservations, call (206) 382-6999.

Flying Fish, the belle of Belltown, also believes in sharing.

Large plates and platters feature some of the city’s most unusual seafood. On any given night that might be a Hawaiian ono, a escolar from the East Coast, petrale sole or Chilean sea bass.

At Flying Fish, the fresh sheet is truly fresh.

If it’s on the menu, don’t miss chef Christine Keff’s spicy Texas barbecued shrimp, the smoked shrimp spring rolls or the Thai crabcake, served with a tangy lemongrass mayonnaise.

For an entertaining vantage point on the lively dining room and the display kitchen, request a table on the upper level.

Flying Fish is located at 2234 First Ave.

For reservations, call (206) 728-8595.

Thierry Rautureau, from Rover’s, inspires a cultlike loyalty among his customers.

That might have something to do with the way the convivial chef strolls through the dining room of his Madison Park neighborhood restaurant, greeting regulars and neophytes with the same winning charm. (His French accent doesn’t hurt, either.)

Rautureau’s classical creations also have a French accent - from a satisfying oxtail terrine with a truffle vinaigrette to the sea scallops married with a rich foie gras. It’s one of the few restaurants to offer a cheese course at the end of the meal.

Put that diet off for just one more day and opt for the five-course chef’s dinner.

Rover’s is located at 2808 E. Madison.

For reservations, call (206) 325-7442.

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