Capital Thrill Regarded Among The Most Beautiful World Capitals, Ottawa Truly Satnds Alone With Parliament Hill

So you’ve been to the Mall in Washington, D.C., and seen all the monuments to American democracy - from the Capitol Building to the Lincoln Memorial.

If you’ve worn out your Fodor’s Washington Guide, consider another North American capital full of beauty to explore: Ottawa, the seat of government for our neighbors to the north.

Regarded as one of the loveliest of all the world’s capitals, Ottawa is filled with impressive architecture, beautiful parks and a host of cultural attractions. It is a city so safe and civilized that one African diplomat confesses that the door to his embassy is frequently unlocked. “This is the only capital in the world where we could do that,’ he says.

While the seat of U.S. government is a parade of neo-classical designs in white marble, Ottawa is a monument to neo-Gothic majesty. Its government buildings cluster on a wooded bluff above the Ottawa River, looking like the fairy-tale castles in a Brothers Grimm storybook.

Constructed of weathered, rough-hewn sandstone and topped with copper roofs turned a mellow green by oxidation, the buildings are testimony to the Victorian love of ornamentation: towers, turrets, vaulted arches, flying buttresses and gargoyles provide a visual feast.

Begin your tour at the new Capital Infocentre, located just across the street from the main parliament building. A 12-minute film, interactive displays and a circular, scale-model of the city will give you a quick orientation to Ottawa, and the center’s computer can even create a personalized itinerary focusing on your interests.

“Parliament Hill is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Canada,” says Christiana Bauer, director of visitor orientation services. “As the seat of our government, it’s an important symbol for Canadians. But it’s also a great place for foreign visitors to explore the history and traditions of Canada.”

From the center head across Wellington Street to the three buildings that make up Parliament Hill. The Centre Block, reconstructed in 1916-20 after a fire destroyed the original buildings, is home to the House of Commons and the Senate, while the East and West Blocks were built between 1859 and 1866 and house offices for government ministers and members of Parliament.

All are constructed in the same Gothic Revival style and are modeled after the British Houses of Parliament, an outward sign of the close historical ties between Canada and Britain.

While parts of the Centre Block are shrouded in scaffolding - part of a three-year restoration project that will be completed this fall - the business of government continues, and public tours are still offered.

After a security check, visitors are led down a hall lined with plaques bearing the names of all those who have served in Parliament, then enter the central corridor of the building, with its imposing rotunda and a Hall of Honour reminiscent of a Gothic cathedral. At the far end of the hall lies the Library of Parliament, an exquisite, circular room with intricately carved woodwork and a white marble statue of a young Queen Victoria in its center.

If you’re fortunate, your Ottawa visit will occur when Parliament is in session, and you can see Canadian democracy at work. The system - like the buildings themselves - reflect British traditions. Members of the House of Commons are elected by districts, while members of the Senate are appointed by the Governor General (a representative of the Queen of England) on the advice of the Prime Minister. Parliament is in session for about 27 weeks between September and June, and visitors can observe debates in both plushly appointed chambers.

A good time to tour Parliament Hill is during the “Question Period,” when members of the opposition ask questions in the House of Commons of the party in power. The often acrimonious debate, accompanied by frequent boos of disapproval, is an entertaining peek at Canadian government in action (though, if you aren’t fluent in French, some of the dialogue may be beyond comprehension).

If you visit during the summer, you will miss such debates, but can instead watch the Changing of the Guard Ceremony each morning, when the Governor General’s Foot Guards and the Canadian Grenadier Guards bring stirring military drills and music to Parliament Hill.

Your tour guide can explain more about the differences between the American and Canadian forms of democracy. Some differences are stylistic rather than substantive: American visitors, for example, are likely to be amused by the green “cube van” that transport members of Parliament from place to place, a pleasant contrast to the luxurious limos that glide around Washington, D.C.

Within a short distance of Parliament Hill lie other major landmarks of Canadian government. The Supreme Court Building, National Archives of Canada, Bank of Canada and many other government structures and monuments are found on “Confederation Boulevard,” a route lining both sides of the Ottawa River (the river divides Ottawa from its neighboring city of Hull, which is part of the province of Quebec). You can easily walk the route in a half-day, and then take some additional time to browse the colorful wares on display in the outdoor Byward Market which lies below Parliament Hill.

Another popular walk is along the 4.5-mile Rideau Canal, a picturesque waterway that bisects the center of Ottawa - part of some 90 miles of scenic pathways that snake through the city. Ottawa also has 29 museums, 50 galleries and theaters, and a host of fine restaurants and shops to explore, proof positive that Ottawa - once considered a cultural backwater to the more sophisticated Toronto and Montreal - is becoming an international city in its own right.

On your explorations don’t be surprised to sense a European atmosphere in this most Canadian of cities. You’re as likely to hear French as English from passersby, and a strong French influence is felt in everything from Ottawa’s architecture to its restaurants.

“Ottawa surprises many visitors,” says Claire Schofield, director of communications for the Ottawa Tourism & Convention Authority. “It’s a city with a bit of Europe about it, but one that is also uniquely Canadian. If you can choose only one city to get the feel of what Canada is about, Ottawa is the place to go.”

MEMO: These sidebars appeared with the story: TIPS FOR TRAVELING Knight-Ridder If you’re not a regular visitor to Canada, here are a few things you’ll need to know: Money: Exchange money at a U.S. or Canadian bank for the best rate of exchange. The rate fluctuates daily and not all businesses give the full value. Many visitors exchange a small amount of cash and charge larger purchases. Identification: Visitors to Canada do not need passports or visas, but you will need to prove that you are a citizen or resident of the United States. Proper identification includes passports, certificates of naturalization or citizenship, birth certificates with photo identification or voter registration cards. Permanent residents of the United States who are not citizens should carry resident alien cards. The same rules apply when you return to the United States. Be sure to carry similar identification for all children. If you’re with someone else’s child, include a letter from the child’s parent or guardian. What you can bring into Canada: Gifts valued up to $60 are allowed. If you’re over age 19, you may bring 40 ounces of liquor or 24 12-ounce bottles of beer for your own consumption. You may also bring one carton of cigarettes, 50 cigars and 14 ounces of loose tobacco. Firearms and weapons, including Mace, switchblades and brass knuckles, are not allowed in Canada. Certain firearms for hunting or competitive sports are allowed, but only in certain cases. For more information, call (519) 257-6400 anytime. What you can bring back: If you’re gone for 24 hours or less, you may bring back up to $200 U.S. in goods duty-free, but no alcohol or tobacco. For 48-hour stays, you may bring back up to $400 U.S. worth of goods, including one liter of alcohol and one carton of cigarettes. For more information, call (313) 226-3180 anytime.

IF YOU GO Ottawa’s Macdonald-Cartier Airport is served by 16 airlines daily from the U.S., and its downtown is a 20-minute drive from the airport. Americans may be asked to verify their citizenship with a passport or birth certificate. The Capital Infocentre is at 90 Wellington Street and is open daily; (800) 465-1867. Daily Parliament Hill tours last 45 minutes and are free. The Question Period is held for an hour on Monday through Friday afternoons when Parliament is in session. Phone (613) 239-5000 for information. A fun way to see Ottawa is on board a narrated double-decker bus tour operated by Piccadilly Tours; (613) 729-7779. For more information on Ottawa tourism, call (800) 465-1867 or visit the center’s web site at http:/ /wwb.com/PAGES/company/ c011182.html.