Ii Moon Cafe Steps Up Service Under Quinones

II Moon Cafe 300 W. Sprague

I am a huge fan of Steve Quinones.

The man is a master of classic sauces and his Mexican food can truly be called authentic. Plus, any guy who’s cooked for Frank Sinatra and who is a master of sauces is okey-dokey in my book. (He did so during his tenure at the posh La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, Calif.)

Quinones is the executive chef and now also the dining room manager at the II Moon Cafe. His recent promotion is the reason I’m going to take a chance and suggest diners who have been disappointed with that place give it another try.

After a promising start a few years ago, this establishment went through an identity crisis. Was it a casino, a nightclub with waitresses in saucy outfits, a hangout for Hell’s Angels or an upscale restaurant with terrific food? In trying to be all of the above, things started to slip in the dining room.

I had several experiences over the past year during which service was either clueless or downright surly.

I heard from numerous readers who had similar complaints.

Recently, things have changed for the better.

First of all, cigars are no longer allowed in the bar, so smoke cannot drift up and spoil your meal. (I don’t care if cigars are ultra-hip these days, they stink.) Also, people wearing insignia jackets (aka gang members) are no longer welcome at the Ugly Rumors Lounge.

Another alteration in the lounge, which is connected to a portion of the dining room, is that music now starts later and when it does begin, it’s with a soft set so diners aren’t shouting over their Caesar salads.

These days, Quinones, a personable, unassuming man, can be seen floating through the II Moon’s various dining rooms delivering meals and checking to make sure everyone is a happy camper. He has confidence that his crackerjack kitchen crew will recreate his mouthwatering dishes and if they don’t, he’s the first one back there to correct things for customers.

I could see his influence on the service during my last few visits.

If anything, it was too efficient. The soup course arrived before we had finished appetizers. I asked our waiter to slow it down, please. But the dinners were delivered shortly thereafter.

Still, I feel downright curmudgeonly complaining because the food was sublime.

The cross-cultural menu ranges from casual Mexican meals to elegant, French-influenced creations.

Quinones recently located a new supplier for veal and I have never had a better piccata. The tender morsels were expertly sauced with the traditional lemon-caper butter, and perfectly seasoned with a rich citrus flavor.

The side dishes were fine, but didn’t really match the simple elegance of the entree. Those steamed shredded carrots look pretty enough, but they’re bland.

The chef has plans to play with various veal preparations - the “Viva” includes morel mushrooms - and duck dishes that, depending on diner’s response, might end up on the regular menu.

I also sampled the catch-of-the-day, a moist halibut filet, which is available several different ways. The velvety mustard sauce is based on a concentrated fish sauce flavored with riesling and Dijon mustard that marry well.

It was indeed moan-worthy.

Soup or salad comes with most entrees and the gazpacho was wonderfully refreshing.

Diced cucumbers, tomatoes and avocados in a light tomato base, its spices were restrained to let the flavors of the vegetables stand by themselves. A wedge of lime on the side would be appreciated.

In scanning the lengthy menu, I see so many favorites.

The II Moon is squid central with the best calamari around, big thick steaks sauteed quickly so they’re tender. The fire on the mountain preparation is hot stuff with peppers, shiitake mushrooms and a tangy lime-based sauce. If you like it tame, order it gringo-style. The orange-garlic-ginger version has a hint of exotic sweetness. The newest rendition, Two Moonie comes swimming in a super-rich buttery sauce with diced tomatoes, mushrooms and cilantro. Now, if they would just bring back the China Cat Sunflower, my absolute favorite.

The Mexican dishes are as close as you’re going to get to the real deal north of Ensenada.

The enchiladas are baked in a sunny red sauce made with dried chilis from New Mexico. And they don’t come drowned with cheese. The green fish enchiladas are bathed in a vibrant sauce made with tomatillos.

I love the fish tacos, the shrimp enchiladas in a creamy champagne sauce and the ceviche, a tart seafood stew that’s marinated in citrus juice.

On the side, you can count on pintos that are whole beans, not greasy refrieds. The quality of the rice could be improved, though. It usually appears as an unappealing lump on the plate.

Prices have been creeping up over the years, and there are now some dinners ringing in at $23. For that reason, I like going at lunch because the prices are lower and the food is basically the same, although you don’t get salad or soup.

Breakfast is another exercise in creativity with eggs perched on crispy tortilla strips and savory black beans, a dish called chilaquiles or breakfast burritos is stuffed with spicy choriza sausage. The calamari steak and eggs is a deliciously decadent way to start the morning.

My only gripe in the morning is that I wish they served better coffee.

The II Moon is truly a unique place. Quirky, but fun. With its faux pine trees and dribbling waterfalls, it’s like a fern bar on steroids.

Ambitious expansion plans include introducing a new wine bar to show off the restaurant’s incredible cellar - long on great French and California selections, but a little light on the Northwest offerings. A banquet room will be added, the kitchen revamped and the casino enlarged. And, eventually, The Mars Hotel will be built on top of this whole operation.

I only hope that through all the growth the II Moon will stay the course with its renewed commitment to customer service. And, you diners can play your part in keeping the restaurant on top of things. If something’s not right, let them know. If they don’t fix it, let me know.

The II Moon Cafe at The Mars Hotel is located at 300 W. Sprague. It’s open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. On weekends, the restaurant serves 24 hours.

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