Indispensable Tools Good Pots And Pans Are A Must For Any Cook; Martha Tells Us How To Choose The Best Ones

Do you love your pots and pans? You should - they are indispensable tools in the kitchen, and you probably use them every day.

Good pots and pans are a joy to work with. With the variety available, however, buying pots and pans can be daunting.

Here’s the information you need to find the best ones for you.

The basics

No one pan serves every need. Different pieces work well for different kinds of cooking, so your kitchen equipment should be customized to the way you cook.

For example, an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven is ideal for stews, and an old-fashioned cast-iron frying pan is great for high-heat searing. For stir-frying, I rely on my classic carbon-steel wok.

Does this mean you shouldn’t buy a matched set of pots and pans? Maybe. Buying a set is usually less expensive than buying all the individual pieces, but ask yourself if you would use each of those pieces regularly.

Start by investing in a few really versatile pieces, such as a 3-quart saucepan, 10-inch frying pan, 5-quart casserole and a stockpot. Then add other pieces according to your needs.

The best pots and pans may seem like an indulgence, but they will serve you well for many, many years. Heavy-gauge metals are more durable, less likely to warp, and heat more evenly. They are, of course, heavy; don’t buy anything that you can’t handle easily, and keep in mind that if a stockpot feels a little unwieldy in the store, it may be near impossible - and dangerous - to pick up when it’s filled with hot liquid.

Look for handles that are riveted to the pan and comfortable to hold. A lid should fit snugly and have a strong handle. Pots and pans with ovenproof, broilerproof lids and handles are the most versatile.

The materials

Copper makes beautiful pots and pans - I’ve collected them for years. Copper is a superb heat conductor (second only to silver), and it cools quickly, too, offering the cook maximum control. However, copper is reactive, meaning that a chemical reaction occurs when it comes into contact with some foods, particularly acidic ones, affecting both their color and taste.

Unlined copper is an excellent material for sugar boilers, preserving pans and bowls for beating egg whites; for general use, copper pans are lined with tin or stainless-steel.

In many kitchens, the favorite skillet is made of cast iron. This metal may be slow to heat, but once hot, it stays hot and conducts heat evenly. Because it is slow to cool and somewhat reactive, it isn’t a good choice for sauces and other delicate dishes.

Cast iron is extremely durable, and a well-seasoned pan is virtually nonstick. Relatively inexpensive, cast iron will last a lifetime.

Enameled cast iron has a glassy coating fused to the metal, making it easy to care for and attractive. (Le Creuset is one popular brand.) It is ideal for long, slow cooking on the stove or in the oven, but not for sauteing.

Inexpensive and easy to care for, aluminum is almost as effective at conducting heat as copper. However, it is also very reactive. Anodized aluminum, such as Calphalon, is treated to become much less reactive, stronger and somewhat nonstick.

Aluminum is often used as a base metal for nonstick coatings, which also eliminates reactions with food. When shopping for aluminum, always look for thicker, heftier pieces.

Stainless steel is durable and nonreactive, but it doesn’t conduct heat well. Mild carbon steel, also called mild steel or black steel, is strong and an excellent heat conductor, but it is reactive and tends to rust if not seasoned. It is the preferred choice for a few specialty pieces, such as woks and crepe pans.

Glass is a poor heat conductor, but many people like glass lids so they can keep an eye on what’s cooking. In this case, look for heavy-duty glass with a metal band around the perimeter, which keeps the glass from chipping.

To make the most of a metal’s advantages, manufacturers have created pots and pans using clever combinations of materials, and these products are among the best around. Copper pots lined with tin or stainless-steel are one example. Stainless-steel pots with an aluminum core are another effective combination; these clad varieties conduct heat wonderfully and are also durable and easy to care for.

Do you know?

What’s the difference between a pot and a pan? Technically, a pot has two rounded handles on opposite sides, while a pan has one long handle, but the terms are often used interchangeably.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Martha Stewart New York Times Syndicate