Restaurant Notes
Information on the following area restaurants was provided by staff writer Leslie Kelly.
BEVERLY’S
(The Coeur d’Alene Resort, 765-4000, Ext. 23) Beverly’s is one of the region’s premier special occasion dining spots. Its incredible view, gracious service and quietly elegant decor provide a fitting backdrop for an impressively broad menu. Steaks and the like are nicely balanced with more inventive dishes. The offerings change seasonally at Beverly’s. Remarkably, every table in this two-level dining room has a view of the water. The place is elegant, but comfortable at the same time. Service is top drawer - from the warm greeting at the entry to the knowledgeable advice of the sommelier, who reigns over a large, awardwinning wine cellar. Beverly’s is open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended, especially in summer.
CAPERS BISTRO
(315 E. Walnut, Coeur d’Alene, 664-9036) Capers has introduced local diners to such exotica as harissa (a fiery African spice paste) and dishes brightened with preserved lemons. Marilyn Nergord’s eclectic menu features food from warm weather climes. And it’s served with style by her genial hubby Steve in a pretty little dining room. Attention given to detail is evident when chewing on a piece of freshly baked bread or sipping one of the robustly seasoned soups. The restaurant is open only for dinner, from 5 to 8 p.m., Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, and from 5to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
CEDARS FLOATING RESTAURANT
(Blackwell Island, Coeur d’Alene, 664-2922) Diners can go casual at this landmark restaurant, with a burger or salad bar ordered a la carte. Or, they can sample some of the best seafood around. There are at least six choices nightly. They’re simply prepared with sauce on the side, with the kitchen taking care not to overcook. The menu also offers a variety of shellfish, pasta dishes and steaks. Desserts are made in-house. There is a new chef in house, as of December. Smoking is allowed in the bar.
DOWN THE STREET
(1613 Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene, 765-3868) For breakfast, Down the Street hits the spot. I loved this place as soon as the waitress offered three potato choices: hash browns, home fries and potatoes O’Brien. The O’Briens were excellent - chunks of taters, fried just right and mixed with still slightly crunchy onions and green peppers. Biscuits were mighty fine, fluffy and flavorful. The thick-cut bacon was crisp and tasted of maple. The country gravy had bits of sausage and was nicely seasoned. The French toast was made with a choice of bread. The cinnamon raisin was terrific, so rich it almost tasted like dessert. A side of sweet spring strawberries was the icing on the cake.
THE GROUND ROUND
(4045 Government Way, Coeur d’Alene, 664-6161) The Ground Round is just the kind of place my big-eating buddy was thinking of when he suggested I write about spots that serve good food and lots of it. I wouldn’t be surprised to find a bunch of lumberjacks fueling up for the day here on enormous breakfasts. There are 21 types of omelets on the menu, including one called the kitchen sink. Burgers are made with fresh, not frozen, ground round. Patties are hand-formed and are juicy. Wash it all down with a schooner of beer, served in an ice-cold goblet that almost requires two hands to hoist.
HIGH MOUNTAIN STEAKHOUSE
(Coeur d’Alene Casino, Worley, 686-0248 Ext. 356) A trip to the Coeur d’Alene Casino is like a trip to the Las Vegas of old, say circa 1987, when 50-cent shrimp cocktails and $4 steaks were still part of the draw. OK, so the meals weren’t all that cheap at the casino’s High Mountain Steakhouse. But they were served in a setting that reminded me of the old-time Vegas casino dining rooms - bright and noisy. The food isn’t fancy, but it is solid. The baked potatoes are absolute monsters. The High Mountain Steakhouse also serves breakfast and lunch and a Sunday brunch. They don’t take reservations, unless it’s for a large party.
HUDSON’S
(207 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene 664-5444) This humble spot has been serving up legendary burgers since 1907. That’s Todd Hudson, the great-grandson of the original owner, manning the grill and deftly slicing thick pickles and white onions. Those are the only garnishes to grace these straightforward sandwiches. No lettuce, no tomato. Definitely no bacon. The hand-formed patties are the focus of this hand-held meal, not all the fixings heaped on top. These babies truly taste like a home-cooked hamburger. There’s no background music, no other sounds besides the meat sizzling. It feels like there’s a hushed reverence for this high temple of burger-dom. They don’t take plastic, so bring cash or your checkbook. Open between 9:30 a.m. and 6 p.m. every day but Sunday.
THE MOON TIME
(1602 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene, 667-2331) This pub is bright and cheery with sunny yellow walls, antique tables and wood floors. Thriving flowerpots greet diners at the entrance and a savory menu encourages patrons to linger over a pint inside. The creative menu is a perfect fit for those cold brews. It starts with some interesting salads, which can be ordered as a first course or as an entree. The other offerings include some of the tastiest sandwiches I’ve ever sunk my chompers into. Of course, with all sorts of savory ingredients crammed in between two pieces of bread, you can expect a sauce-running-down-your-wrist mess. The fresh sheet offers the kitchen the chance to have some fun. Offerings might include pasta with a creamy, roasted garlic sauce and topped with toasted walnuts, Thai clams with black bean dipping sauce, a lamb and plum stew or a cobb salad sandwich.
PASTY DEPOT
(601 Northwest Boulevard, Coeur d’Alene, 667-2789) The Pasty Depot - focusing on those savory Cornish turnovers - started small a couple of years ago but has gradually grown. The Depot also offers pizza by the slice, really tasty soup and a daily special, which can include hearty fare like beef stew with dumplings. Top it off with a fudgy homemade brownie. It’s amazing they can do so much in such a small space. The place is basically a take-out joint, although there are a few tables inside and picnic tables outside.
TAKARA
(309 Lakeside, Coeur d’Alene, 765-8014) Slide into a seat at the expanded sushi bar at Takara. The fish is flown in from Seattle regularly, so it’s fresh. Maybe it’s a boring choice, but I liked their California roll. Still, sushi is just a portion of the restaurant’s Japanese menu. I was impressed with the light, crispy tempura. A messy pile of fried noodles was flavorful and loaded with tiny cocktail shrimp and crunchy veggies. The affordable lunches include miso soup and a refreshing sweet-tart cucumber salad. In addition to the open dining room, there are some private rooms available.
UNCLE JIM’S TEX MEX
(6064 N. Government Way in Dalton Gardens, 762-3381) Call it the no-muss, no-fuss approach to that Mexican favorie. At Uncle Jim’s Tex Mex, they call it taco in a bag. It’s a sack of Frito’s corn chips slit open at the side and loaded with meat, cheese, lettuce, black olives, onions, homemade salsa and sour cream. Uncle Jim’s also serves traditional tacos, burritos and something they call a cornmeal slapper. It’s jalapeno cornbread cooked on a griddle and Uncle Jim’s has become pretty famous for them.
THE WINE CELLAR
(313 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene, 664-9463) In a city that prizes its watery views, it seems odd to be attracted to a spot below street level. But The Wine Cellar exudes a cool charm, with its rough rock wall interior and its dim, romantic lighting. It’s intimate, without feeling claustrophobic. Here’s what makes it such a neat little package: live entertainment, friendly service, cozy surroundings, an interesting menu and fine wine. Lunch is a spur-of-the-moment affair with a board listing the daily specials. Kids are welcome in The Wine Cellar, as long as they’re with their parents.
WOLF LODGE INN
(Wolf Lodge Bay, Coeur d’Alene, 664-6665) The original Wolf Lodge - which opened in 1971 - is still the best. Not just the best steakhouse, but one of the best restaurants in the region, simply because it delivers a true Old West experience. Wally Wickel sold the place to his nephew Tom Engle a few years ago. Engle made some rather revolutionary changes, including adding other cuts of meat besides sirloin, adding a baked potato option and replacing the old picnic benches with knotty pine booths. The steaks are so juicy and perfectly cooked - actually medium rare, which is a rare feat indeed. You can taste the smoke through the highly charged seasonings. These days, diners get their fill of places built around phony charm. The Wolf Lodge is genuine and real.
Do you know of a new, unusual or just plain good item at a restaurant in Kootenai County? Tell us about it, and we may publish your comments. Our address is: The Idaho SpokesmanReview, 608 Northwest Blvd. Suite 200, Coeur d’Alene, ID 83814. Fax, 765-7149 or e-mail kens@spokesman.com.