Surviving The Lawn Haul Routine Mower Maintenance Can Save You Time, Money And Loads Of Frustration

I did a brainless thing. I never performed any maintenance on my mower.

That Murray mower died last month.

A front wheel broke off, the victim of metal fatigue. Still, I soldiered on, mowing the lawn twice with that three-wheeler. Only once did the mower dip into a hole and gouge the lawn, leaving a shoe-size divot.

In all the 15 years I had that mower, I never changed the oil or air filter or spark plug. Never drained the gas tank over winter.

I did add some oil a couple of times, but it never burned much. And I finally sharpened the blade last year only because the mower was just shredding the tips off the grass.

Every year, I’d vow to work on that mower, and every year I’d just drag it out and crank it up. Amazingly, it always worked.

Most mowers won’t.

Upkeep avoidance is not the recommended course of action in the manual. Lawn mower mechanics also suggest a wiser route. Lawn mower maintenance is not that difficult or time consuming. And it can save you money, like the cost of a new mower.

Some simple tips can also save you frustration. Mechanics say a dead engine is the biggest problem they see in the springtime. People haul out that mower for the first time, and it won’t start.

The reason is usually stale fuel. I’d never heard that before, but apparently gas loses some of its volatility over time.

“People let (a mower) sit during the winter months with fuel in the tank or in the carburetor, and it just goes stale and needs to be cleaned out,” says John Childs, who repairs mowers at North Market Small Engines in Spokane.

Mechanic Bob Traverse has seen his share of engines that won’t start for the same reason. “It’s kind of surprising that that in itself can do it.” Fresh gas, he says, is “very, very important.”

An engine with old gas also might run rough, says Traverse, who fixes mowers at Ace Hardware in Post Falls. Fresh gas solves that, too.

It takes months for gas to go stale, though. It smells a little bad and doesn’t have “that good sharp gas smell,” Traverse says.

It’s best to drain the gas tank before storing the mower over winter. Or you can use one of the fuel stabilizer additives on the market.

At the end of the mowing season, it’s also best to use up any gas left in the supply can. It’ll burn fine in your automobile.

Traverse says the most common mower problems are caused by abuse and neglect.

“I get a lot of mowers in here with hardly any oil in them at all,” the retired Marine says.

Running an engine low on oil can damage the cylinders and rings. Or worse, the engine could seize up, killing the mower.

Checking the oil level is a simple task and is recommended before each mow. If the oil dip stick gives a low reading, it needs oil - usually 30 weight but check your manual. Experts advise changing the oil once a year, in the spring. Some mechanics recommend doing this at the end of the season, so dirty oil doesn’t sit in the crankcase all winter.

The air filter is another key component of an engine. If the filter is clogged with dirt, the engine starves. “If it can’t breathe, it’s going to use more gas, it’s going to be harder to start, it’s not going to run good,” Traverse says. Plus, it will burn more oil.

To inspect a filter, simply remove the cover. On some machines, this can be done without tools. If the filter is clogged, it’ll need replacing. Often, loose dirt can be removed by whacking the filter on the ground. It’s also a good idea to clean the inside of the cover.

Cleaning the mower extends its life as well. When dirt and grass collects, moisture clings to the metal and causes rust, Traverse says. It only takes a couple of minutes to wipe off dirt and grass - underneath the mower as well.

Keep dirt off working parts, too - the bearings, bushings and cables, Childs advises. “Dirt gets in there and it’s a problem.”

The blade needs periodic inspection, too, when the gas tank is empty. Check for nicks and dents, which can be cleaned up with a file while the blade is still attached to the mower. Taking off a small amount of metal will not affect the blade’s balance.

For severe damage, consider replacing the blade. Most are inexpensive.

Childs notes that you can keep an eye on blade performance by the appearance of your lawn after you mow. “If it looks brown or the grass blade tops are getting chewed up, that’s a good indication the blade needs sharpening.”

If you’re not planning to work on your mower for any reason whatsoever, Childs and Traverse offer simple tuneups for around $45. Work includes blade sharpening and balancing, new spark plug and air filter, oil change and general inspection and cleaning. Dozens of shops around the region do the same work.

A major overhaul on a garden-variety mower is not worth the cost. It’s cheaper to buy a new one. Unless it’s already new.

Traverse recounted the sad tale of a guy who paid close to $300 for a dependable mower for his kids. “They ran it for five minutes, hit a stake and bent the crankshaft. It cost around $180 to replace the crankshaft.”

Of course, you can avoid mower upkeep altogether, but I no longer recommend that approach. I now have a brand new $225 mower. I’m not betting this one is going to last 15 years. I’ve read the manual this time.

This sidebar appeared with the story: MAINTENANCE TIPS Keep it running

To give your mower a long, effective life, experts recommend these tips:

* Use fresh, unleaded gas.

* Drain the gas tank before storing for the winter (or use a fuel stabilizer additive).

* Change the oil once a year, and check the oil level before each use.

* Remove and inspect the spark plug yearly. If the curved electrode and tip have deteriorated, replace.

* Change or clean the air filter annually, or more often if working in dirty or dusty conditions.

* Inspect blade for damage. It shouldn’t wobble or be bent.

* Keep the mower clean, removing dirt, grass, leaves and other debris.