Faulty faucet could have a plugged filter
Q: In your July 23 column someone wrote in with a question about low water flow and pressure on a Delta faucet. There is one possibility you did not mention and maybe overlooked. I have replaced many other faucets with Deltas and one thing I have found to happen quite often is that when work is done, you have jarred loose some rust or dirt in the lines. Delta faucets have a very fine filter as part of their aerator and they may clog up. Maybe that should be checked. As far as the washer is concerned, we have a Maytag and there are filter screens as part of the hose washers in the hose that attaches to the shut-off faucets. – Ed W., Spokane
A: Ed, thanks for your letter referring to “Pressure is lacking in faucets.” For those who missed this article, it was about a reader who replaced his bathroom faucet and was losing water pressure on the hot side but not on the cold side. Normally this suggests that either the washer screw came loose or part of the washer broke loose and is lodged somewhere between the shut-off valve and the faucet’s water outlet, restricting the water flow.
Ed does bring up an interesting point that’s worth mentioning. If the water pressure had been lost on both hot and cold sides, then yes, this would suggest that (in most cases) the aerator is partially plugged, causing a water pressure water drop at the faucet. Ed’s suggestion to clean the aerator first is a good one, especially if the pressure has dropped both on the hot and cold sides. It wouldn’t hurt to clean the aerator in both kitchen and bathroom faucets from time to time. Consider it preventive maintenance.
The reader also had his water pressure drop on the hot side of the washing machine. I suggested that he check to see if the water inlet valve screen is plugged with foreign material, sand or even rust if he has galvanized pipes. All would restrict water flow into the valve. This is pretty easy to accomplish by first turning off the hot water supply to the washer, and then, with a bucket handy, removing the supply line (hose) from the shut-off valve and draining the line into the bucket. Then remove the inlet hose from the water inlet valve on the back of the washer.
With a flashlight check the inward cone-shaped screen of the water valve. If the screen is plugged, clean it using warm water in a spray bottle and a small, soft nonmetallic brush. A little CLR might help loosen any sediment. While you’re at it, check the cold side as well. If you are unable to unclog the screen(s), then it’s time to replace the water solenoid inlet valve.
Some water valve screens are molded into the inlet valve, depending on the make, model, and year of the washer. Don’t attempt to remove these screens — they aren’t designed for removal. However, others can be removed for easy clean-out. Use long nose pliers to grab the outside edge of the screen and remove it. This will also allow you to actually rub the inlet side and clean off any debris. You may find it easier to purchase a new screen, which most likely will only be available from an appliance dealer or directly from the manufacturer.
Ed brings up another possibility: Check the end of the hose that connects to the shut-off valve to see if there’s a screen. If so, it can easily be replaced. Look for a “filter hose washer” at your local home improvement store — sold three to a package, they are very inexpensive.
If a screen is not available for the water inlet valve on the back of the washer, then remove the screen and place filter hose washers at one end of both the hot and cold washer hoses. This may be an inexpensive way to fix the problem without replacing the washer’s inlet valve.
Ed, thanks again for your letter and for the hands-on suggestions. I appreciate it and I know that our readers will. too.