Restaurant notes

THE WHITE HOUSE GRILL

(Spokane Street and Seltice Way, Post Falls, 777-9672) Good fun, good food, lots of garlic. You can smell the stuff from the street. Chef-owner Raci Erden plays genial host from his tiny kitchen. There, he grills up the regions best kebabs and other Mediterreanean specialties. Try the fine French onion soup followed by lamb on a skewer or one of the flavorful pastas. Great prices, too. Fresh seafood is featured in the evenings. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.

THE WINE CELLAR

(313 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene, 664-9463) In a city that prizes its watery views, it seems odd to be attracted to a spot below street level. But The Wine Cellar exudes a cool charm, with its rough rock wall interior and its dim, romantic lighting. It’s intimate, without feeling claustrophobic. Here’s what makes it such a neat little package: live entertainment, friendly service, cozy surroundings, an interesting menu and fine wine. Don’t miss the best (actually, the only) paella offered in the Panhandle. Kids are welcome in The Wine Cellar, as long as they’re with their parents.

WOLF LODGE INN

(Wolf Lodge Bay, Coeur d’Alene, 664-6665) The original Wolf Lodge — which opened in 1971 — is still the best. Not just the best steakhouse, but one of the best restaurants in the region, simply because it delivers a true Old West experience. Wally Wickel sold the place to his nephew Tom Engle a few years ago. Engle made some rather revolutionary changes, including adding other cuts of meat besides sirloin, adding a baked potato option and replacing the old picnic benches with knotty pine booths. The steaks are so juicy and perfectly cooked — actually medium rare, which is a rare feat indeed. You can taste the smoke through the highly charged seasonings. These days, diners get their fill of places built around phony charm. The Wolf Lodge is genuine.

BEVERLY’S

(The Coeur d’Alene Resort, 765-4000, ext. 23) Beverly’s is one of the region’s premier special occasion dining spots. Its incredible view, gracious service and quietly elegant decor provide a fitting backdrop for an impressively broad menu. Steaks and the like are nicely balanced with more inventive dishes. Prime rib is the signature dish — prime grade beef ordered from Allen Brothers in Chicago. Don’t miss the spectacular desserts, especially the tiny bite-size morsels served at lunch. Chef de cuisine Jim Barrett’s creations might include a wild satay skewered with elk, venison and buffalo, a salad that stars pears poached in riesling, a grilled pork porterhouse with apple-walnut chutney, Alaskan halibut and prawns crusted with Dungeness crab and salmon complemented with an orange-thyme reduction. Talk to expert sommelier Sam Lange for a fitting match to your meal. Reservations are recommended.

CEDARS FLOATING RESTAURANT

(Blackwell Island, Coeur d’Alene, 664-2922) Diners can go casual at this landmark restaurant, with a burger or salad bar ordered a la carte. Or, they can sample a wide selection of seafood. There are typically at least six choices nightly. They’re simply prepared, grilled with sauce on the side. The menu also offers a variety of shellfish, pasta dishes and steaks. Desserts are made in-house. The new owners plan to stay the course, though weekend lunches have been added this summer. Smoking is allowed in the bar.

DOWN THE STREET

(1613 Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene, 765-3868) For breakfast, Down the Street hits the spot. I loved this place as soon as the waitress offered three potato choices: hash browns, home fries and potatoes O’Brien. The O’Briens were excellent — chunks of taters, fried just right and mixed with still slightly crunchy onions and green peppers. Biscuits were mighty fine, fluffy and flavorful. The thick-cut bacon was crisp and tasted of maple. The country gravy had bits of sausage and was nicely seasoned. The French toast was made with a choice of bread. The cinnamon raisin was terrific, so rich it almost tasted like dessert. A side of sweet spring strawberries was the icing on the cake. Breakfast and lunch served daily. Down the Street has another eatery on Seltice Way in Post Falls.

ESES BISTRO

(780 Mullan Road, Post Falls, 773-4688) This culinary gem is in an unlikely location, in a strip mall near the new mega-chain store. A new chef has continued with the innovative mix of contemporary American cuisine with a dash of European classics. Dinner selections include blackened tenderloin with a cooling papaya salsa, Dungeness crab cakes and a couple of pasta dishes. There’s also a fresh sheet that focuses on seafood. Tuesdays, wines by the bottle are half price. Lunch is offered Mondays, lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday and dinner only on Saturday.

EVERETT’S ON THE LAKE

(3799 E. Hayden Lake Road, Hayden Lake, 762-4876) For fall and winter, the menu changes nightly. Every evening, there’s a different steak preparation. Selections might include a porterhouse with blue cheese and green peppercorn demiglace or a New York paired with a wild mushroom-cabernet reduction. First, share a lamb satay appetizer or the excellent Asian-influenced green salad. Other dishes that are on the rotation: cheese ravioli smothered in a Italian sausage marinara, halibut tacos with a red chili aioli, fresh steelhead with lemon caper beurre blanc or sole picatta. Don’t miss the house-baked brownies for dessert. A Sunday brunch is served from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. Dinner served from 5 p.m. daily.

HIGH MOUNTAIN STEAKHOUSE

(Coeur d’Alene Casino, Worley, 686-0248 Ext. 356) A trip to the Coeur d’Alene Casino is like a trip to the Las Vegas of old, say circa 1987, when 50-cent shrimp cocktails and $4 steaks were still part of the draw. OK, so the meals weren’t all that cheap at the Casino’s High Mountain Steakhouse. But they were served in a setting that reminded me of the old-time Vegas casino dining rooms — bright and noisy. The food isn’t fancy, but it is solid. The baked potatoes are absolute monsters. The High Mountain Steakhouse also serves breakfast and lunch and a Sunday brunch. They don’t take reservations, unless it’s for a large party.

HUDSON’S

(207 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene 664-5444) This humble spot has been serving up legendary burgers since 1907. That’s Todd Hudson, the great-grandson of the original owner, manning the grill and deftly slicing thick pickles and white onions. Those are the only garnishes to grace these straightforward sandwiches. These babies truly taste like a home-cooked hamburger. There’s no background music, no other sounds besides the meat sizzling. It feels like there’s a hushed reverence for this high temple of burger-dom. They don’t take plastic, so bring cash or your checkbook. Open between 9:30 a.m. and 6 p.m. every day but Sunday.

MIKE’S COEUR D’ALENE CAFE

(1801 Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene; 664-1800) Home-style cooking at fair prices. The omelettes are enjoyable, especially with the potatoes O’Brien. Pancakes are plate-sized. Burgers are big, and the fries are fine. Soups taste like Mom’s secret recipes. Owner Mike Kempf also does a good job with mashed potatoes and gravy, as well as the unusual and outstanding sweet potato fries, finished in a honey butter.

MOMIJI

(620 N. Spokane St., Post Falls; 457-0123) Japanese food served up by Ruth Nobuko, the former owner of the popular Japanese Lunchbox in downtown Spokane. Here, she’s expanded the menu to include tempura, stir-fried noodles, rice bowls, sushi and, in the evenings, meals cooked on the teppan yaki grill (like the set-up at Benihana). The lunch specials are great deals, under $5.

MOON TIME

(1602 Sherman, Coeur d’Alene; 667-2331) This pub is bright and cheery with sunny yellow walls, antique tables and wood floors. Thriving flowerpots greet diners at the entrance and a savory menu encourages patrons to linger over a pint inside. The creative menu is a perfect fit for the ever-changing lineup of cold brews. It starts with some interesting salads and great soups, which can be ordered as a first course or as an entree. The other offerings include some of the tastiest sandwiches I’ve ever sunk my chompers into. . There’s also a fresh sheet that changes weekly. The pub is smoke-free until 9 p.m.