Pressure is lacking in faucets

Q. Our upstairs bathroom was remodeled perhaps two years ago. Prior to that time, the hot water stream in the bathroom sink flowed properly. Since the new sink was installed during remodeling, the hot water flow is scant, and it takes more than a minute to bring in warm water. The new faucet is a Delta single-handle center-set faucet. The turn-off valve under the sink is fully open.

We have no idea why the new faucet fails to produce a full stream. All other faucets throughout the house appear to be functioning properly, although the hot water feed to the washing machine seems to be sluggish. We have had a soft water tank for several years and it was inspected by the installer and found to be working properly.

Any ideas? We have no way of telling a plumber what needs fixing. I enjoy reading your column in The Spokesman Review and thank you for the advice you provide. — M. K., Spokane

A. M. K., thanks for your kind words and I’m happy that you enjoy the column. Now, let’s see if we can solve your plumbing malfunction mysteries. It appears that you have two separate issues: the bathroom faucet and the clothes washer. I suspect that we can get to the root of both problems without calling in a plumber and you’ll be able to handle these projects yourself.

My guess is that your bathroom originally had a two-handle faucet and the faucet stems used seated washers and screws to the hold the washers in place. When the faucet was removed, no one checked to see if the screws (or washers) were still attached to the stem bottoms. I’m just speculating, but I assume that the screw on the hot water side came off and dropped into the supply line. Every time you turn on the hot water, the water pressure pushes the screw up into the faucet’s water outlet, restricting the flow.

This situation is pretty easily fixed. First turn off the water to the faucet so you can remove the hot water supply line from the basin’s inlet to the shut-off valve. Have a bucket ready and drain the water from the line starting with the basin side first. After the line is removed and drained, check to see if there is a screw or other foreign material in the line or bucket.

If you don’t find a screw, it’s possible that it is in the shut-off valve. To check, put a bucket under the shut-off valve, place a rag over the valve’s opening, and turn the water on and off fast. See if the screw appears or pops out. Do this a couple of times if you don’t find the screw on the first try.

If you still don’t find the screw, then follow the instructions for your new faucet to remove the handle and cartridge from the topside of the faucet to reveal two small holes: one for hot, one for cold. Poke a piece of rebar tie wire about 14 inches long down the hole on the hot side to see if it pushes out the screw or any other foreign material that may have lodged there. Finally, reassemble your faucet and remember to turn on the water supply underneath.

I want to point out that even with clear lines, it may take a little time for hot water to travel from the water heater to the faucet, depending on where your water heater is located in your home in relation to the faucet.

Now, let’s tackle the sluggish hot water feed to the washing machine. Again I’m speculating, but my guess is that the water inlet valve screen is plugged with foreign material, sand, or even rust if you have galvanized pipes. All would restrict water flow into the valve. Start by turning off the hot water supply to the washer, and with a bucket handy, remove the supply line (hose) from the shut-off valve and drain the line into the bucket. Then remove the inlet hose from the water inlet valve on the back of the washer.

With a flashlight look into the water valve and check the inward cone-shaped screen. My guess is that the screen is plugged, so clean it using warm water in a spray bottle and a small soft nonmetallic brush. A little CLR might help loosen the sediment. While you are at it, check the cold side as well. If you are unable to unclog the screen(s), then it’s time to replace the water solenoid inlet valve.

Some water valve screens are molded into the inlet valve, depending on the make, model, and year of the washer. Don’t attempt to remove these screens—they aren’t designed for removal. However, others can be removed for easy clean-out. Use long nose pliers to grab the outside edge of the screen and remove it. This will also allow you to actually rub the inlet side and clean off any debris. You may find it easier to purchase a new screen, more properly called a “filter hose washer.” Inexpensive, they are available at your local home improvement store.

Since this is all a guessing game on my part, I am curious to know what you learned after trying these solutions, so please let me know. Your discoveries may help other readers down the road. Good luck with your mystery plumbing malfunctions!