What do you do with all those capers?

Look in your refrigerator. Do you have a jar of capers you bought eight months ago for a recipe that called for a tablespoon or two? Did you buy a large jar because it was such a good buy and now you wonder what to do with it all? We’re here to help. After all, capers are too flavorful and versatile to waste.

What are capers?

Capers are the small, unopened flower buds of Capparis spinosa, a prickly perennial plant native to the Mediterranean and some parts of Asia. They are costly because the buds are picked by hand. After the buds are harvested, they’re dried in the sun, then pickled in vinegar or salted. The small, green herb buds have a piquant and salty flavor and are sometimes described as sharp, mustardlike and peppery.

The buds range from tiny (about as big as a baby pea) to the size of a small olive. The smallest variety — nonpareils — is from southern France. They are the most prized and come with a higher price tag. Larger capers are stronger in flavor but less aromatic.

Caper berries are not the same as capers, so don’t substitute them in recipes. Caper berries are about the size of grapes and look like gooseberries. They are sold pickled, often with their stems attached. Somewhat starchy and seedy, they have a less intense flavor than capers. Eat them like olives, toss into salads, add to an antipasto platter or use as a garnish.

Buying and storing

Capers — brined and salted — are usually sold in small jars in the condiment or gourmet section of supermarkets. Italian specialty markets sometimes carry salted capers in the deli case. Store brine-packed capers, tightly sealed, in the refrigerator. (The buds should be covered in brine.) For best quality, use within nine months.

Salt-packed capers should be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for about six months, or in the refrigerator up to two years.

Using capers

Salted and brined capers can be used interchangeably. Salted capers, preferred by many Italian cooks for their meaty and intense flavor, should be soaked in cold water for 15 minutes, then rinsed before using. Brined capers can be used straight from the jar unless a recipe specifies otherwise. The brine adds flavor. When experimenting with capers, start out with a small amount, such as 2 to 3 teaspoons, and then add more to taste. Here are some ways to enjoy them:

Meat and fish: Garnish any fish with capers. A popular way to enjoy them is sprinkled on top of smoked salmon served on a bagel with cream cheese and a squeeze of lemon. Add capers to a lemon-butter sauce for fish or shellfish, or mix into ground meat when making burgers.

Sauces: Use in pasta or tomato sauces (such as puttanesca), mayonnaise and mustard sauces, or in a wine sauce for meats. For a more intense flavor, crush the capers with the back of a spoon before adding them to sauces.

A tablespoon of crushed capers in 1/2 cup of sour cream makes a tasty dip for steamed, chilled artichokes or other vegetables. Stir a teaspoon of crushed or whole capers into dips.

Eggs: Add to deviled or scrambled eggs.

Sandwiches and pizza: Add capers to a tuna- or egg-salad sandwich, or sprinkle a few on pizza. Add to mayonnaise as a spread for sandwiches.

Salads: Toss capers into a green salad, or add a teaspoonful to a vinaigrette. Add them to warm potato salad.

Garnish or condiment: Decorate appetizers and main dishes, or use them in place of pickles or relish in recipes.

This is one of my favorite sauces to serve with fish. Although the recipe calls for serving it with baked salmon, it was a hit when I served it with halibut. I use reduced-fat mayonnaise and sour cream.

Caper Sauce

Adapted from “Oregon Sampler: Resorts & Recipes” by the Assistance League of Corvallis, Ore.

3 tablespoons capers, drained, plus extra for garnish (divided)

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, plus extra for garnish

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Crush capers with the back of a spoon. Combine them with mayonnaise, sour cream, green onions, parsley, lemon juice, salt and white pepper. Chill.

When ready to serve, spoon a strip of sauce down the center of each cooked fillet. Garnish with additional capers and chopped parsley.

Yield: About 2 cups

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate