Trusty Escort develops acceleration issues

Dear Bob: My 1988 Ford Escort LX with 162,000 miles, purchased new, has developed an acceleration problem that never happened in the past. When I press the accelerator, nothing happens, but it finally responds if I hold it down. It hesitates both at stops and on the go. It seems worse after the engine has warmed up.

I recently had a complete tune-up and had the injectors cleaned to boot, but it did not help. The shop had no other ideas on what was wrong.

— J.G., Spokane Valley, Wash.

A: Has the catalytic converter ever been changed? If not, given your 162,000 miles, it could be partially clogged, which might be causing your hesitation and no-acceleration problem.

Have a shop check the back pressure in the exhaust system, because too much back pressure from a clogged converter or other restrictions in the exhaust system can cause your exact symptoms.

Dear Bob: Can you publish that list of oil companies that do and do not import oil from the Middle East, so that we can make choices as to which countries we want to enrich with our consumer dollars?

I know you’ve done it before, but I think it’s important that we be reminded.

— D.D., via e-mail

A: It’s been awhile since I published that list, so here it is again. Bear in mind that, as the Iraqi oil industry comes back on line, some of this information may change.

At present, however, by far the biggest importer of Mideastern oil, mainly from Saudi Arabia, is Shell. It’s followed by Chevron-Texaco, Exxon-Mobil, Marathon-Speedway and Amoco. When you buy from these oil companies, you may be assured that you are filling the coffers of the country that hatched most of the murderers of 9/11.

If you’re inclined to buy from an oil company that doesn’t import oil from Mideastern countries such as Saudi Arabia, some of the larger companies that don’t import Mideastern oil are Citgo, the national oil company of Venezuela — didn’t know that, did you? Sunoco, Conoco, Phillips 66, Hess and BP.

Whether or not to take this information into account in purchasing your fuel is a judgment call on your part, but I’m publishing this list so that you can have the information to choose as you see fit.

Dear Bob: I have a foolproof remedy for stained or fogged glass that your grandma probably used. Most commercial glass cleaners have additives in them, some to color them blue and others to make them smell good. These things almost always leave a residue.

Here’s Grandma’s recipe for the best glass cleaner ever: Into a clean spray bottle, pour half a cup or so of ammonia and a quarter-cup of white vinegar. Fill the bottle the rest of the way with clean water, and give it a little shake. Now spray the windows or glass, and allow the mixture to soak into the gunk for a few seconds. Squeegee the window with a small squeegee, wiping the excess off the squeegee after each pass.

Your vehicle may smell like German potato salad for a while, but you will have the cleanest windows ever.

I enjoy reading your column. Sincerely,

— B.C., Cornwall-on-Hudson, N.Y.

Sometimes the old remedies are the best. We’ll let my readers decide, after trying it out, whether this recipe is strong enough to handle that tough vinyl-fog film that still seems to be a problem with some new cars.

I tried it out myself, but I got so hungry for potato salad that I had to quit the job halfway through.

AMERICAN DRIVERS FIGHT BACK

Here’s a tip that will help you get better gas mileage while fighting terrorism and cutting our nation’s dependence on Mideastern oil:

Warming an engine through long periods of cold idling has proven to be one of America’s most persistent and difficult-to-break driving habits.

And no wonder, since the theory seems logical: Given that a warm engine is more efficient than a cold one, why shouldn’t you get the engine nice and warm before you put it to work?

It’s true that a warm engine is more efficient than a cold one, but allowing it to idle is not the best way to warm your engine. A cold engine left to idle uses an inordinate amount of fuel, because the choke is usually fully engaged to provide the rich mixture needed to feed the cold engine. Nary a drop of this fuel is used to move the car, meaning that you’re getting 0 mpg during warm-up.

Coupled with this outright fuel waste is the fact that an idling vehicle does not lubricate itself as effectively as one that is in gear and moving. Thus cold idling also increases engine wear.

A car that is in gear and moving — ideally at slow speeds for the first mile or two — warms faster, lubricates more efficiently, uses much less fuel and experiences significantly less wear than one that is allowed to sit and cold-idle.

Cold-engine idling is one of the most severe modes of engine operation your car can encounter. Even car manufacturers now agree with this conclusion, and most recommend a minimum of cold idling before moving a vehicle.