Thompson Falls set to bloom

‘Bought some land nearby,” said an older man with a black dog on the end of a leash.

We met him and his dog outside a motel in western Montana. He was retiring and had bought himself and his wife a piece of paradise in Montana’s Clark Fork Valley, away from the crowds and traffic of his growing Idaho city. The cool tranquility of the valley and the small towns situated along the Clark Fork River appealed to him.

Among those towns is Thompson Falls, the seat of Sanders County with a population around 2,000.

On a regional real estate Web site, I read a story about how early residents piled logs on the Northern Pacific’s railroad tracks. When the train stopped, the townsfolk boarded it and persuaded passengers to settle there.

It’s hard to believe Thompson Falls had to resort to such aggressive economic development tactics to get people to live there. The surrounding landscape is stunning, with towering mountains, green forests and blue water.

Throw in a couple of today’s modern conveniences – such as boat ramps and putting greens – and it’s a great place to hit the trail, the water or the links.

We had planned to stay in Thompson Falls, but all the hotel rooms in town were booked, according to the desk clerk at the Rim Rock Lodge. We were lucky enough to get the last room at a motel in Plains, Mont., just 20 minutes to the east.

The couple who operate the Dew Duck Inn in Plains were in the middle of renovating and remodeling the motel they bought in January – another Clark Fork Valley retirement plan. We waited for them to put the freshly painted door on our room before we settled down for the night.

The next morning, we headed back toward Thompson Falls. Established in 1885 during the gold and silver mining rush, the town was named for renowned cartographer and fur trader David Thompson, who explored the region in the early 1800s. He established Saleesh House in 1809, which served, on and off, as a Hudson Bay Trading Company post.

I was interested in doing some exploring of my own at the PP&L Island Park. As the name suggests, the park is a small island, accessible via a wooden bridge; motorized vehicles are prohibited. The recreational area is owned by PP&L Montana, which also operates Thompson Falls Dam.

In the evening, local joggers use the island for a cross country run. The terrain combines the remnants of an old road and thin footpaths around the island. It’s also a good place for a morning walk or an afternoon picnic. (Picnic tables are available, but I prefer finding a private spot with a view of the dam or the adjacent mountain ridge to the south.)

A sign at the island’s entrance warns of rapid water level changes. The message is serious, but I couldn’t help but be amused by the illustrations of what could happen to the thick-headed stick figures who refuse to heed the warning. That’s effective communication; I’ll remember this sign and what to do if I hear a blaring siren – leave.

The day was warm and getting warmer. Our dog Kah-less had to have a dip in the Clark Fork before we could continue our exploring. He sat down in the cold, refreshing water while a battalion of Canada geese lined up facing him.

There’s no warning sign of attacking geese, but I know you don’t mess with anything protecting a nesting area. The geese have claimed a smaller island as a nursery. They also use anything else they want, including a work trailer parked on a service catwalk for the dam.

Kah-less didn’t need much coaxing to leave the scene. He proceeded with his sniffing and I watched for early wildflowers. It’s that time of year – time to dust off the old field guide and get obsessive about wildflower spotting.

Last year, I found my first and only Beautiful Clarkia at Thompson Falls. The hot-pink petals shaped like antlers showed bright against the dry grasses and moss last June.

It was too early for Clarkia this year, but I found loads of Yellow Fawn Lilies covering the rocky hills. The coming summer will bring other flowers – tiny twin flowers beneath the shrubs on the island’s north shoreline and mockorange blossoms waving their sweet scent in the air.

After our island romp, we headed back into town for a cold treat. A sign on the Little Bear Ice Cream and Yogurt Parlour invites hungry people to enter, but warns: “If you’re in a hurry, don’t come in.” Things may take longer when they’re made fresh, but for a hot summer day, the Little Bear is a nice retreat in which to wait.

John and I discussed going for a hike when we pass through Thompson Falls again in a couple of weeks. The Clark Fork Valley runs through the center of the Lolo National Forest, which has hundreds of acres to roam.

From Thompson Falls, we drove west and pulled off Highway 200 at a boat launch to snap photos of the scenery. Across the river from us, golfers moved around greens at the River’s Bend Golf Course, most likely reveling in the fact that they picked this perfect day to tee off. (River’s Bend is a public facility and has nine holes.)

Retracing our route, we headed east and drove through Thompson Falls once again. The town will soon buzz with seasonal visitors, hungry to taste the atmosphere of a small Montana town nestled in the heart of a recreational heaven.

I recommend reservations, unless you like living on luck.