Beautiful corner of the world
This is a trip you won’t forget.
It is dark and chilly at 3 a.m. The first sign of the train is the roar of twin 4,200 horsepower locomotives approaching the Sandpoint train depot. Three sleeping cars, one sleeping car/crew dorm car, one cafe/lounge car, one dining car, five coaches and a baggage car quickly come into view and stop. A door opens on the side of a car and one of the crew steps out to escort you to a seat. The train starts moving and your trip to Izaak Walton Inn on the Amtrak’s Empire Builder has begun.
The popular Empire Builder, which trades between Seattle and Chicago ferrying nearly 500,000 passengers a year, got an upgrade in 2005. Subtle changes aimed at improving passenger comfort are noticeable as you climb the narrow steps and walk through a hallway to the upper deck of a super liner passenger car. The lighting in the hallways and the coaches is much brighter. All the soft surfaces, such as the seat coverings, are now in a brighter, more colorful fabric.
The slow swaying of a moving train as it rolls down the tracks provides a relaxed, unhurried way to travel. The extra leg room, dining car services and the ability to move around at any time has advantages over other forms of transportation. There is a certain laid-back attitude with people using the train. There are four nearby destinations on the eastbound Empire Builder – Whitefish, West Glacier, Essex and East Glacier – all in Montana. East Glacier can be used only in the warm months of the year. Essex is a whistle-stop along the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.
Next to the tracks at Essex, nestled in the trees and framed by the mountains of Glacier National Park and the Great Bear Wilderness, is the Izaak Walton. It is surrounded by more than 1 million acres of wilderness. Cross Country Magazine called this place “The Coziest Inn in the Rockies.”
But don’t confuse cozy with primitive. The Izaak Walton has a warm lobby lit and heated by a stone-faced fireplace. There is a full menu with tasty food in the dining room, and tidy rooms. Downstairs, the well-stocked Flagstop bar features Montana-brewed beer, along with a game room and arcade.
All the guest rooms have a private bath. There are also cabooses that have been renovated into heated cabins that contain a full kitchen and bath. In the inn’s lobby it’s not unusual to see guests working a jigsaw puzzle or reading a book next to the fireplace. Peace and relaxation prevail at this place.
The building that houses the inn is registered as a national historic building. It symbolizes the difficulty of keeping the U.S. Northwest transcontinental rail open during the harsh winters. Each winter, 60 Great Northern Railroad workers were stationed here to clear the rails of snow between Essex and East Glacier. The Great Northern built the 29-bedroom structure in 1939.
Even today, helper engines wait by the inn to hook up to long, heavy freight trains to help push or pull them up and over Marias Pass. There are 15 to 30 trains, including the Empire Builder, which pass 50 feet from the inn’s front door every day. Most every guest turns into a rail fan before their stay is over.
Railroad memorabilia, including old equipment, signs and historic photos, is found on every wall and corner on the inn. Part of the charm and fun of staying at the Izaak Walton Inn is looking at all the historical items displayed on the walls. Rail fans should ask for a train “chasing map” at the front desk. The map shows locations of tunnels, snowsheds and good photo locations.
There are 33 kilometers of groomed cross country ski trails around the inn, and trails also lead into Glacier National Park. Bring your own skis or rent them at the inn, which also offers guides to help guests learn skiing skills and techniques.
This trip includes train travel through some of the most spectacular mountains found in the United States. Combine the travel with a very comfortable, isolated inn on the edge of Glacier National Park and this trip becomes a winning combination year-round. The Izaak Walton Inn staff will welcome you into their beautiful corner of the world.