Starting seeds indoors ideal for our area

Thu., April 12, 2007

Sandra Nuesse The Spokesman-Review

This week in the garden

•Easter is a mental marker to fertilize lawns for spring. Do not use weed and feed around trees and shrubs as the chemicals can be picked up by root systems growing under grass.

•Finish any remaining cleanup in perennial and shrub beds. Cut back ornamental grasses (except fescues and blue oat grass) and other foliage left for winter interest.

•Quickly finish pruning trees and summer blooming shrubs. Forsythia and other spring blooming shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

•In warmer microclimates begin garden tillage and planting of cool weather crops like cabbage, broccoli carrots, greens and beets. Outlying areas should wait until the ground is dry to avoid compacting the soil.

•Transplant or plant new trees, shrubs, perennials and berry plants this month while they are just beginning to grow.

Yeah, we can start planting!

The timing is perfect to poke those tiny seeds into soil, but only if they are pampered in a bright warm indoors location for the next few weeks. We can get frosts until early May making it too early to set out tender annuals and vegetables, but ideal for giving them a head start indoors. Starting seeds indoors is a simple affordable way to get a jump on the short growing season here in the Inland Northwest.

Start with clean sterile containers. Garden stores offer a variety of plastic flats and peat containers specially designed for the purpose; however it is simple to make your own from products like milk cartons, cottage cheese containers and egg cartons. Sterilize homemade containers with a one-to-nine ratio of bleach and water, and punch numerous drainage holes into the bottoms.

Use a disease free soil mix. Purchased ready-mixed seed starting mediums are the easiest way to get seeds into containers quickly. Moisten the mix thoroughly and fill containers to within 1/4 inch of the top.

Follow planting directions on seed labels. Each package will have detailed directions for planting depth and cultural requirements unique for germination of that seed. Plants that don’t tolerate transplanting well should be planted in individual containers; others are so hardy they can be planted in mass and thinned later.

Cover lightly with starting mix and allow containers to re-hydrate by placing them in a tray of water until moisture has seeped to the surface of the soil. Drain thoroughly and slip each container into a clear plastic bag tied shut or cover with clear plastic wrap. Set aside out of direct sunlight into a warm (70 to 80 degrees) spot and check moisture levels daily. Vent if necessary and remove covering when plants emerge.

Move plants into bright light. Fluorescent lights will be required if natural light from sunny windows is not available. Suspend the light 4 to 6 inches above plants for 14 to 16 hours per day. Monitor daily to maintain moist but not soggy soil conditions.

Transplant outside after frost danger passes. Allow two weeks to introduce plants to outside conditions by placing them in sheltered, shady areas during the day and returning them indoors at night. This allows plants to transplant safely by gradually increasing outdoor exposure to sunlight, wind and temperature fluxes. A child’s wagon is perfect for this

Starting seeds indoors ideal for our area

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