Eternal Sunshine

SUNSHINE COAST, B.C. – “At the first sign o’ trouble, I’ll toss ye overboard and ye’ll sink like a rock to the bottom o’ the sea,” growled “pirate” Larry Kelly to the Chinese laborers he collected at Smuggler’s Cove.

His human cargo – jobless after completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885 – would pay Kelly, an ex-Royal Navy seaman, $100 to smuggle them into the U.S. in the hopes of finding work.

Standing on the rocks overlooking this tranquil hideaway tucked into the Sunshine Coast north of Vancouver, I see why Kelly picked this spot for his operations. The forest-covered wilderness coast virtually encircles this little bay, which more than a century ago was miles away from civilization and the reach of the law.

Nor was Kelly the only rascal drawn to this place, I discover as I continue reading the interpretive sign in front of me. Rum-runners also used Smuggler’s Cove during Prohibition to traffic made-in-Canada alcohol to “thirsty destinations” south of the border.

Today, Smuggler’s Cove is a haven for the handful of sailboats that anchor in its serene waters – and the end of our leisurely, two-mile round-trip walk in the surrounding provincial park.

The views are spectacular and contrast with the beaver territory on the trail there and back, which has its own beauty. Returning on the boardwalk over the marsh, as the late afternoon sun streams between tall tree trunks to sparkle on water lilies, we spot a beaver gliding just beneath the water’s surface and a large turtle sunning on a log.

Smuggler’s Cove is also just a five-minute drive from the Rockwater Secret Cove Resort. Ever since new owners took over the property (formerly Lord Jim’s Resort) in 2004, spruced it up and built new ocean-view tented suites on stilts, I’ve wanted to stay here.

These aren’t like the tents I camped in as a child. Connected by 1,500 feet of boardwalk and spaced well apart in the trees for privacy, the wood-and-metal-framed suites with canvas walls and roofs are downright luxurious.

There’s a king-size bed with down duvet. A rain shower that pelts you with hot water as you look out through a glass wall at the red-barked arbutus trees. Remote controls for the gas fireplace, overhead fan and large hydrotherapy tub.

An interior sliding Shoji screen discreetly hides a proper flush toilet. Double French doors open onto a huge deck overlooking the sea. And heated slate floors keep the tents warm and dry.

Rockwater’s dining room also deserves praise. The kitchen uses local organic produce and meats, bakes its own bread, and even smokes its own bacon.

Dinner may include asparagus with shaved black truffles and grana padano to start, followed by spring lamb with a smoked onion and mascarpone tart, or mussels in a lemon pine broth with sun-dried apricots and toasted pine nuts – all expertly prepared.

And the “spa-without-walls” – a spa tent right at the water’s edge – is a blissful place to indulge in a massage. I dozed off listening to the wind rustling the sides of the tent, the water lapping softly against the rocks, and in the distance, guitar songs from a late afternoon wedding on the resort’s grassy lawn.

But it’s not all about “glamping” (the millennium term for glam-ifying the camping experience). You want adventure too, right?

Spend a few days at Rockwater Secret Cove Resort – situated halfway along what’s known as the Lower Sunshine Coast – and you’ll be able to explore many of its coves, trails and communities.

We signed up one morning for sea kayaking with Halfmoon SeaKayaks, located at the resort.

After a safety lesson, we shoved off in a very stable double kayak. The area is quite sheltered if you stick close to the coast, and most guests go by themselves, though a guide is available if you wish.

Bald eagles circled above the tree line on shore, and a seal nosed its way up for a good look at us. Before long, we entered the two protected arms of water extending into Secret Cove, gliding by boathouses and cottages, a few mansions and one smart dock sporting wooden pots with pink petunias.

If you visit Rockwater during a full moon, you can enjoy a guided moonlight paddle. On these excursions, as the sun goes down, you set off for nearby Thormanby Island, where Rockwater’s executive chef, Steven Ewing, cooks up a wilderness gourmet feast served on the beach by candlelight. After, you paddle back by the light of the full moon.

Then there are the hiking trails. As well as Smuggler’s Cove, a must-do trail is the one-hour walk through the rainforest – past nature’s latticework of moss-hung tree branches – to the Skookumchuk Narrows.

Here, the tide is squeezed through a narrow channel, forming rapids considered among the fastest of their type in the world (up to 20 miles per hour). Time your hike right, and you’ll see spectacular whirlpools and swirling white water.

Another pleasant, easy hike is along the oceanfront cliffs at Francis Peninsula Point in Madeira Park. The short drive on Francis Peninsula Road off the highway is also picturesque, taking you past fairytale cottages and several grand estates.

After a good walk, a good lunch is in order. Several pubs on the Sunshine Coast offer just that, with ocean views to boot.

At the quiet Backeddy Marine Pub in Egmont, we sat out on a tiny deck overlooking the prettiest scene possible: sailboats and water taxis in the turquoise inlet, a float plane taking off, snow-capped mountains in the distance. Hummingbirds buzzed at hanging feeders a few feet away.

We chowed down on juicy fillets of halibut, pan-fried oysters and fresh green salad with homemade orange vinaigrette dressing.

There also is a sprinkling of fine dinner restaurants along the Sunshine Coast, in addition to Rockwater’s dining room.

Magellan’s in Sechelt just opened in May and is worth the 20-minute drive from Rockwater. On the waterfront, this sophisticated bistro serves delicious, innovative large-size tapas.

Oysters with smoked B.C. salmon, saffron cream and asiago cheese, and potato-and-leek crusted halibut with wild mushroom sauce are among the menu items. And the prices are reasonable.

Driving back home, we stopped for a latte at the quaint seaside village of Gibson’s Landing. Funky eclectic shops, bakeries, cafes, art galleries and restaurants surround its bustling fishing wharf and flower-lined seawalk.

There’s still much more to see and do on the Sunshine Coast. Like swimming in Ruby Lake. And taking a boat tour to Chatterbox Falls (said to be magical) at the head of the Princess Louisa Inlet.

We’ll be back for sure.