Jazzing it up in New Orleans

NEW ORLEANS – It’s that time of year when New Orleans slathers up and chills out.

Never mind how spring temperatures tend to sizzle. Get a big hat, plenty of suntan lotion and everything will be cool in the Big Easy for the last weekend of April and the first weekend of May.

The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Fest – that smorgasbord of music, food and fun – allows music enthusiasts to plan an itinerary around everything from musical lectures and demonstrations to impromptu parties.

And, oh yes, big-name acts and niche music abound.

Fans stake out spots in front of stages or under shade trees at the Fair Grounds Race Track, chowing down on boiled crawfish, po-boys, fried chicken – even sushi.

“There is nothing else like it,” says singer Aaron Neville, whose performance at the festival this year is his first gig in his hometown since Hurricane Katrina hit. “It’s one of those things that makes the city what it is.”

Before the hurricane, Neville traditionally closed out the second weekend of the festival with his brothers, in addition to doing a turn in the gospel tent.

But for him, New Orleans hasn’t been the same since Katrina roared through in August 2005, flooding 80 percent of the city – including his home.

“I had 10 feet of water at my house,” Neville says.

In addition, his wife of 49 years, Joel Roux-Neville, died from lung cancer in January 2007.

“The New Orleans I know is definitely a memory now,” Neville says.

But reviving good memories associated with the city’s huge music festival is something he’s looking forward to.

“This is like our 30th anniversary at the Fest,” he says. “So I’m not going to worry about anything. I’m going to leave it in the hands of the Lord and just enjoy it.”

While Neville has been around Jazz Fest for three decades, the event itself will be 39 years old when it opens for the weekend of April 25-27.

Opening day headliners will include Sheryl Crow and Allison Krauss as well as reggae master Burning Spear. April 26 brings the Count Basie Band featuring Patti Austin, Archie Bell and Billy Joel.

Closing out the opening weekend on April 27 will be Al Green, Elvis Costello and Allen Toussaint, Cassandra Wilson and Louisiana native Tim McGraw.

The festival’s second weekend kicks off on a Thursday for the first time since Katrina. Performers May 1-4 include Santana, the Derek Trucks Band, Keb Mo and a Tribute to Mahalia Jackson featuring Irma Thomas.

Stevie Wonder makes his Jazz Fest debut May 2.

With the huge selection of music, food and other attractions – including hundreds of booths with food, art, clothing and native crafts – pacing is important for those attending the event.

Many festival regulars set up a headquarters – folding chairs, umbrellas, blankets – near one of the stages or in shaded areas where they listen to music near a favored tent or stage.

There’s also plenty of music and food available for visitors after Jazz Fest closes each day, for those with the energy remaining to do more.

Rooms in New Orleans during the festival are at a premium, with many people settling for lodging on the Mississippi Gulf Coast or in other areas of Louisiana.