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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

The ABCs of handsaws

This is a Hammer

Samantha Mazzotta King Features Syndicate

Q: I tried using the handsaw my dad gave me to cut a piece of wood, but it’s the most useless thing I’ve ever had. It sawed about half an inch and then stuck, and I can’t get it out. What’s a better kind of saw to get? — Felicity in Columbus, Ohio

A: Handsaws require a bit of patience and practice to really get the hang of. And while the majority of do-it-yourselfers eventually invest in power saws to handle cutting jobs, learning to use a handsaw properly is still important. You’ll learn a lot about proper cutting angles and some of the characteristics of different woods. Plus, it builds character, or so my dad used to say.

The type of handsaw to keep in your toolkit at all times is one marked “general purpose.” This type of saw allows you to cut wood either along the grain or against the grain. (A “crosscut” saw is designed to cut only against the grain.) The blade should be a little more than 2 feet long, with 8 to 10 teeth per inch (this will all be noted on the label). A good steel blade — one that’s not too floppy — and a sturdy wooden handle are essential.

To properly saw a piece of wood, mark it with a line that indicates the spot and direction you want to cut. Clamp the wood to a sturdy surface (a workbench or between two sawhorses). Line up the saw with the mark and begin slowly sawing back and forth, smoothly but firmly. As it cuts into the wood, angle the saw at about 60 degrees vertically — try to maintain that angle.

You will be able to feel whether the saw is cutting smoothly or not; don’t fight or jiggle the saw side to side — concentrate on a smooth back-and-forth movement using the entire length of the saw blade. Don’t push the saw downward to force the cutting to move faster — this is one sure way to snag the saw teeth in the wood.

As you near the end of the cut, be especially cautious. The wood will get wobbly and you’ll need to hold one side steady to keep the last bit from splintering; plus, the instant the saw gets all the way through, it will fall downward and angle right back toward you. So don’t saw too furiously at this stage.

Again, be patient as you saw. If your arm gets tired, take a break, then back at it. Don’t let frustration get the best of you. The only way to get better at this is to keep doing it.

Home Tip: A saw blade should be kept sharp, so look for a saw file at your home-improvement store (directions on how to use it should come with the file).

Send questions or home-repair tips to homeguru2000@hotmail.com, or write This Is a Hammer, c/o King Features Weekly Service, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475.