New windows are wise choice
Q. I plan to have a couple of major improvements to my house: replacement windows and new siding. Which should I do first? I can’t afford to have both done in the same year.
A. I think the best choice for the first improvement is replacement windows. If you put the windows in service before Dec. 31, 2010, you can qualify for a federal income-tax credit equal to 30 percent of the cost, up to a maximum credit of $1,500.
The credit is also available for a number of other energy improvements, including insulation.
To qualify, the windows will have to meet strict standards for energy efficiency. Installing energy-efficient windows might also qualify you for other incentives offered by some states and utility companies.
You can get detailed information on the required energy standards for the federal tax credit at www.energystar.gov (enter Federal Tax Credits in the search space). This site also has a Rebate Finder that can locate information on other possible incentives.
The main thing to keep in mind about qualifying for the tax credit is that the windows must meet the standards for U factor (control of heat loss from inside the building) and solar heat gain, or a window’s ability to block out the sun’s heat.
If your house has old single-pane windows, without effective storm windows, new windows should give you a significant saving in heating and cooling costs.
They have a couple of other important benefits that are sometimes overlooked. They often significantly reduce penetration of outside noise into a building, and most have a tilt-in feature that makes them easy to clean from inside the building.
Replacement windows are not difficult to install, and many homeowners have installed them and saved a sizable portion of the cost. Many manufacturers supply detailed installation instructions, and basic installation is done from inside the building.
Q. We have a house in a wooded area where tree sap often stains the vinyl deck. Is there a product that will remove the stains?
A. You should be able to remove the sap without harming the deck with Goo Gone, a versatile solvent sold in spray bottles and squeeze bottles at many supermarkets. Test first in an inconspicuous place to be sure it is safe for your deck.
Q. The metal support columns in my basement have developed some rusty spots and blisters that leak a rusty gook. I have lived in the house for 51 years and we never had basement water and there are no leaks from above. Should I be concerned and what can I do about it?
A. You should be concerned if it appears that the columns might be weakened.
The rust is probably caused by high relative humidity and condensation on cold surfaces, a common problem in many basements even if they don’t get flooded.
It’s impossible for me to guess whether the support posts, often called lally columns, have been weakened – that would require an inspection by a qualified person such as a structural engineer.
If the columns are still strong and the rust is just a cosmetic problem, you can solve it by painting the columns. A couple of coats of paint will also help protect the steel against future rusting. A dehumidifier will also help.
If you decide to paint, sand the rusty spots and apply a rust converter such as Rust-Oleum’s Rust Reformer, sold at some home centers and hardware stores. The converter will turn any remaining rust into a black, inert substance that can be pained.
Apply a rust-resistant primer to the columns, followed by two coats of rust-resistant paint (solvent-based finishes might be required; follow directions on the rust-converter label).