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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Wild harvesting

Here I am, in 1959, with my brothers and our wild bounty that was harvested in the outback of Utah. (Maryjane Butters / United Feature Syndicate)
Maryjane Butters United Feature Syndicate
Hunting season is about to be in full swing again across the nation, and it is cause for celebration for those of us in the American outback who depend on a freezer full of venison to make it through the coming year. You see, venturing out into woodlands and harvesting wild game is the original definition of “eating local.” In an effort to right the innumerable wrongs of the industrial grocery system, more people are choosing to find food as close to home as possible, and hunters are no exception. Local food is fresher and more nutritious, and it supports a healthier economy and environment close to home. This may be a newfangled idea to some, but hunters have known this all along. Understanding a hunter’s passion requires understanding nature from a gut-level perspective. All the controversy that surrounds hunting simply can’t touch the realm of sunrise and frost-tinged leaves, scents of wild musk, tracks on a stream bank and chilly toes. These are the treasures of the hunt, as is solitude, patience, the heart-thundering thrill of a wild animal’s approach, the satisfaction of a swift kill and the precious meat to bring home. Of course, hunting does require an up-close-and-personal acknowledgment that meat comes from living creatures. It can be easy to ignore the fact that industrial farming destroys millions of animals each year, but a hunter meets her quarry one on one. Yet, even as we cringe at the thought of killing something, we have to recognize our primal purpose. There is a certain deep fulfillment in harvesting food for oneself, whether it’s the wild mushroom or the deer. In his acclaimed book “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” Michael Pollan explains it in terms of accountability. Learning to eat from the wild, he says, “gave me the opportunity, so rare in modern life, to eat in full consciousness of everything involved in feeding myself: For once, I was able to pay the full karmic price of a meal.” For hunters and their families, wild game is not only a source of meat; it also offers a kind of spiritual sustenance that keeps them rooted to the land. The yearly rituals of harvest are invigorating, giving hunters the opportunity to challenge themselves physically, reconnect with the wild and shake off everyday stresses. What’s healthy for the hunter, it turns out, is good for Mother Nature, as well. Hunting controls population sizes so that that deer, squirrels, bears, waterfowl and other species don’t overuse the available habitat. That way, there is plenty of food and shelter for all. Plus, when you buy a hunting license, your money finances local wildlife management and conservation efforts. Responsible hunters, after all, are the original conservationists. But, beyond that, wild meat is just absolutely delicious and so much better for us than livestock raised in big commercial operations. It’s lower in saturated fat and calories, and it has a significantly higher content of heart-healthy, omega-3 fatty acids and polyunsaturated fat, which help offset the negative impacts of saturated fat and “bad” cholesterol. Not to mention, wild game aren’t inundated with as many pesticides and funky feed additives as domestic animals. One of my favorite ways to eat venison is in stew, so here’s an easy, belly-warming recipe that’ll have even the “wild-meat-tastes-gamy” crowd coming back for more. Hearty Venison Stew 2 pounds venison, cubed 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 onions, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon tamari (or soy sauce) 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon salt 3 cups water 7 small red potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 pound carrots, chopped 1/4 cup organic white flour 1/4 cup water salt and pepper, to taste In a heavy pot or Dutch oven, brown the meat in the oil over medium-high heat. (Don’t let the oil burn.) Add onions and garlic, and saute for about 5 minutes. Add tamari/soy sauce, bay leaf, oregano, salt and 3 cups of water. Cover and simmer about 1-1/2 to 2 hours until meat is tender. Add potatoes and carrots; cook until tender. Mix flour and 1/4 cup water, and stir into the stew, with salt and pepper, to thicken before digging in.