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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

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Food’s origins adds to dining experience

Chico Hot Springs in Montana makes sure all the food diners receive is special -- there is a strong focus on local products, including much of the ingredients grown right on the premises.  (Cheryl-Anne Millsap / Down to Earth NW Correspondent)
Cheryl-Anne Millsap Down to Earth NW Correspondent
Today, it isn’t enough to simply pick up a menu, consider the choices and place an order with the server. We want more than just a delicious meal. For many of us, where the food we’ll be eating originated is as important as how it will be served. At home, when I dine out I favor restaurants where locally-sourced ingredients and items are served whenever possible. I respect that commitment to supporting local growers and producers so I support those establishments. More and more, as I travel, I look for the same philosophy. Recently, I spent a night at Chico Hot Springs in Montana’s Paradise Valley. As the last leg of a tour through Yellowstone National Park, it was a splendid finish to a grand trip. As if the view wasn’t enough, my cottage, which sat on a terrace high above the original buildings and hot spring-fed pool, was beautiful. From the front porch I could look out over the valley. The view changed constantly, as the shadows followed sunrise to sunset. At night, the sky was an ocean of stars. Over dinner, I chatted with general manager Colin Kurth Davis. He is obviously proud of the reputation the restaurant has earned. Originating as a hot-and-now stopover and eating spot for weary gold rush miners, featuring the luxury of a bowl of fresh strawberries with each meal, the restaurant has, over the last 100 years, grown into a world-class dining destination. Guests include Hollywood celebrities as well as locals. From simple meals to elegant and innovative culinary creations, the restaurant at Chico Hot Springs has earned a reputation for not-to-be-missed gourmet cuisine. What impressed me is the commitment to local sourcing. Davis told me Chico works to serve Montana beef, game, fish and fowl whenever possible. Produce is grown in the resort gardens and greenhouses. The result is noticeable. The next morning, as I took the path from my cottage down to the dining room, I spotted the kitchen garden. The sun was just beginning to burn away the dew and there was a mist rising from the broad leaves of the sunflowers and vines. One of the staff walked along the beds picking produce for the day’s meals. It was a scene as simple and yet eloquent as nature itself. I spent a leisurely half hour strolling around the garden, taking photos and appreciating the hard work and bounty. The time in the pretty gardened deepened my appreciation for home-grown. I get great pleasure out of stepping out to my patio garden for lettuce and tomatoes for lunchtime BLTs and salads. I feel a sense of pride in providing the freshest food for my family. It’s nice to know that, in a broader sense, places like Chico feel the same way. To stay inspired, I brought home a copy of “A Montana Table” the book of Chico recipes penned by Davis’ wife, Seabring Davis. Maybe I’ll pick the last of the summer’s tomatoes, buy a loaf of fresh bread from one of the local artisanal bakers and make a batch of tomato-basil bruschetta. If I close my eyes and picture that beautiful Montana valley, savor each bite of right-off-the-vine tomatoes and basil from the big pot of herbs by the back door, it will be almost as good as being in that beautiful place again.
Cheryl-Anne Millsap is a freelance columnist for The Spokesman-Review. Her essays can be heard on Spokane Public Radio and on public radio stations across the country. She is the author of “Home Planet: A Life in Four Seasons” and can be reached at catmillsap@gmail.com