Do It Yourself: If you see the light, it’s time to seal

Q. On bright days, I can see light around part of the perimeter of our front entrance door. I know this means there are gaps and that I am losing heated and air-conditioned air. How can I seal those gaps so that the door still operates as it should? I need something simple.

A. Several types of weather stripping are available for doors, some easy to install.

One of the easiest is called V-Seal and is sold in the weather-stripping departments of many home centers and hardware stores. It comes in a roll, like tape, and is made of flexible plastic.

This stuff is suitable for smaller gaps; I wouldn’t use it on anything larger than about three-sixteenth inch. If you have larger gaps, check home centers for other weather stripping options.

If you decide to use V-Seal, a roll costs about $4 and has 17 feet of stripping, enough to do both sides and the top of a typical entrance door. V-Seal is generally installed on the door stop – the molding along the door jamb that the door contacts when it is closed.

The open side of the V should point toward the door opening. If you install the seal like that but still see gaps when you close the door, put another strip on the jamb so it contacts the edge of the door when the door closes. The open end of the V should point toward the outside in this type of installation.

To install it, measure the surface where the seal will be and cut off that much from the roll. Clean the surface first and let it dry.

The seal is about an inch wide and creased down the middle. Fold on the crease so the removable paper backing is on the outside and the seal takes its V shape. Pull off the backing a little at a time to expose the adhesive and press the seal to the surface. When the door is closed, the V flexes enough to open and fill the gap.

V-Seal can also be used to weather strip loose windows, and is especially useful for double-hung windows that have small gaps at the bottom and top when closed.

If your door has a gap at the bottom, use a “sweep” to seal it. A sweep has a flexible fin that should bear against the threshold when the door is closed; it is attached with screws or is self-adhesive.

Q. My porcelain bathtub has a lot of stains and residue that I think are caused by hard water. Refinishing the tub is out of the questions, so what can I do to make it presentable?

A. Several special bathroom cleaners are available that will remove most hard-water stains. Some of these cleaners contain powerful chemicals, and you should not buy or use one without reading the cautions and directions. Among the cleaners you might try are Green Works Bathroom Cleaner, Lime-a-Way and Zud.

A homemade cleaner will also work on porcelain in some cases. If you want to try it, mix a cup of white vinegar with a tablespoon of lemon juice. A washcloth or towel should be moistened with the homemade cleaner and spread over the stained area; after about 10 minutes, remove the fabric and rinse thoroughly.

It is seldom easy to remove old hard-water stains. You might have to use several applications of any cleaner and do some scrubbing; do not use abrasive cleaners.

Once you get the stains out, you can help keep the tub clean by wiping it out after each use. Fix any dripping faucets – they are a common source of stains.

The ultimate solution, of course, is a water softener that will neutralize the minerals in your water that are causing the stains.

Q. I want to insulate the walls of the kitchen in my 81-year-old house. I thought I could have the insulation blown into the walls through small holes from inside. The walls are stucco. Two contractors told me it can’t be done. Can you help?

A. Some walls are not suited to blown-in insulation. Most suitable are wood-framed walls with large cavities between the wall studs; these can be filled with fluffy insulation, usually cellulose, that is pumped in through small holes. I am sure the contractors were giving you the facts after checking your walls.

Your best bet is to make sure the kitchen windows and any door are energy-efficient and well sealed, and to insulate the house where practical, such as the attic and floors. If the kitchen is still cold, an auxiliary heater would be a practical option. Oil-filled electric heaters work well in smaller rooms and are relatively safe when properly used.