Eco-style movement catching on with producers, consumers

‘Sustainable style’ has been cynically eyed by some over the last decade as more of a marketing push rather than an actual trend. But now, it may actually have proven itself to be a legitimate movement, propelled by a growing number of mindful and eco-conscious designers, textile companies, manufacturers, and retailers. There’s also growing pressure from consumers who are becoming more educated and curious as to the process that shirt, pants or dresses go through from conception to design to manufacture to purchase. Evie Ponce, vice president of Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver, Canada, explains on the EFW web site what a sustainable future in fashion could look like. “We like to call it more ‘responsible design’ than ‘eco-sustainable,’ and the ultimate goal is that this just becomes a lifestyle, not ‘this is eco, this is sustainable, this is responsible;’” she said. “It’s just that this is the way we choose to live our lives as human beings as consumers.” Eco Fashion Week started in 2009 to support and promote the continued development of eco-friendly fashion designers, consumer education and local economic growth. It has placed sustainable fashion at the forefront of an initiative for Vancouver to become Canada’s ‘greenest’ city by 2020. Participating designers’ work must fall into at least one of a dozen categories, ranging from requiring the use of animal-free, organic, natural, recycled, or reused materials, to ensuring the manufacturing process uses resources efficiently or reduces waste. In the U.S., the fashion industry hit its sustainable stride in 2009 when “The Green Shows” made New York’s Fashion Week calendar. Three years later, seven sustainable designers world-wide are still a part of this major fashion event, reinforcing the idea that not only is sustainable style here to stay but it’s a contender to watch. “First and foremost, we are fashion designers, we’re practicing our craft, we’re creating genuine ideas and these ideas do have a compassionate aspect to them,” said the owner and founder of Bodkin, a sustainable clothing line, on The Green Show’s promotional video. “But first and foremost, they are fashion-forward, stylish, smartly-styled pieces.” Though Spokane can be slow to adapt in some areas, eco-oriented fashion arrived more than three years ago when stores like Kizuri began offering alternatives to mass-merchandised goods by selling the story of the clothes rather than the label. Sun People Dry Goods, which opened last year, also promotes this focus. Kim Harmson, Kizuri’s owner, focuses on Fair Trade, Earth-friendly items like over-the-knee socks made in the U.S. from regenerated cotton and knitted hats, mittens and headbands created by women who have been rescued from sex trafficking in Nepal and India. Two of her most popular items are bags made from “no kill leather” (from cows that died a natural death) by women in Nepal, and JuJu Skirts made from recycled T-shirts by a small group of women in Montana. “The skirts are so popular … .they start flying off of the rack the minute I get them in. Each one is different – like art,” says Harmson. “I enjoy making the connections with people—with the artisans, the conscious shoppers—it’s all very rewarding.” Angie Dierdorff, Sun People’s purchasing manager, says 98 percent of their customers are thrilled when they see products like “Old Man’s Pants’ Hats”— made from used men’s pants. “The other 2 percent of the people have this mental block to wearing something someone else wore, but most love the idea that something old and out-of-style is now new, fresh, hip and fun.” Sun People also carries an ‘eco-baby’ section featuring organic clothing from Under the Nile and Madrone Regenerated Clothing—one-of-a-kind cute, comfortable women’s and kids’ wear made from Goodwill castoffs which can’t be sold due to stains, condition, etc. Jenny Allen, owner/designer of the Port Townsend-based clothing line, says she feels her work is in the spirit of her grandmother. “A hundred years ago, nothing got thrown away. Everything was repurposed,” said Allen, in an article on ptleader.com. Allen further discusses the added environmental benefits of repurposing clothing, and says buying organic cotton is a step in the right direction. She also asks customers if they’ve considered the impact of even their ‘healthier’ organic T-shirts — water used, plastic packaging used for shipping, fossil fuels expended to haul the product, etc. According to Fashion Futures, a report by trend analysts Forum for the Future and denim brand Levi’s, by 2025, in addition to buying sustainable style, we will shop less, and shop for our clothes locally or in vintage shops. “Luxury [will mean] stuff that is good for people and the planet,” Fashion Futures states. The report also says that consumers will increasingly demand that business be transparent, that we will focus on quality, rather than quantity and due to exorbitant prices for new clothing, we will engage more in swapping clothes with each other or lease them from companies. These trends have already taken flight with clothes swapping sites Swap Style, and Rehash, and several designer clothes rental services, such as Wear Today, Gone Tomorrow and Rent me a Handbag. When it comes to buying “resale” rather than “retail,” this notion has certainly taken on a new life locally with the recent openings of several new boutique-style, gently-used clothing and accessories stores like Lollipop Lemondrop in Liberty Lake, and in downtown Spokane, Carousel and Fringe and Fray. Fringe and Fray owners Grace and Ryan Johnson didn’t necessarily think about positive environmental aspects when they opened the store two years ago, but Grace says the store has definitely created a loyal following partially due to customers appreciating the fact that their purchase will be a recycled item. “I love finding great items that still have a lot of life in them. Although my intention in opening the store wasn’t an outright environmental stance, it’s definitely a benefit,” says Grace. Another eco-benefit of Fringe and Fray is that it provides an added boost to the local economy, as the majority of her purchases are local—from other vintage stores, garage sales or customers wanting to sell their gently used clothing and accessories. She also sells a line of locally-made Eco Chic Jewelry, and popular headbands she makes made from old scarves. Clothing libraries may also be a part of our “fashion future,” analysts say; just like a conventional library, we might very well be able to “check out” clothes. Similar to clothes swapping sites but without the need to find a match with a fellow swapper, this notion could very well materialize soon, offering yet another option in consuming responsibly and choosing to be sustainable when it comes to what we wear.