Fresh Ideas For Casseroles Favorites From The ‘60s Can Be Made Modern And Healthy

On today’s trend-happy cooking scene, tuna surprise and tamale pie would surely be considered culinary dinosaurs.

But for anyone alive in the ‘50s or ‘60s, casseroles evoke warm feelings of nostalgia. (Or waves of nausea, depending on how many cans of cream of mushroom soup were called for in a recipe.)

“We were raised Catholic, so every Friday we would have tuna noodle casserole with shoestring potatoes on top,” said Sheila Collins, owner of Spokane’s Catered for You. “I remember reading my mother’s Sunset magazine and it was crammed with recipes for casseroles for breakfast, lunch and dinner.”

Unlike other comfort foods - mashed potatoes and meatloaf, for instance - casseroles have never made the leap to becoming chic eats.

We contacted several area chefs and posed the question: Can casseroles be updated for the ‘90s?

The answer was yes, but not without a bit of tweaking.

To Collins, the traditional casserole is too heavy for today’s fat-gram-counting eater.

“Recipes would usually include something from all four food groups and you would end up with something incredibly high in fat,” she said.

Collins said for sake of convenience, the one-dish dinner is worth revisiting, but she suggested a saute or stir-fry instead of baking

something in the oven. “I keep a supply of pre-cooked linguine and rice in Zip-Lock bags so I can add it to leftover chicken and saute it in olive oil with onions and garlic,” she said. “It’s quick, you don’t have to measure ingredients and there’s only one pan to clean.”

Karla Graves, chef-owner of Upstairs Downtown, suggested a name change might be in order.

“If I put something on the menu and call it a casserole, it won’t sell, but if I call it a bake or a gratin, it moves,” she said. “I don’t think people want to admit that they still like casseroles.”

Graves said the key to a successful casserole is that it has to be juicy enough.

“In the ‘60s, people used butter and cream to stretch more expensive ingredients like meat,” she said. “But you can lighten things up by using low-fat cheese, egg whites, stock or tomato sauce.”

For vegetable casseroles, Graves suggested roasting veggies before layering them with other ingredients.

“The roasting brings out their sweetness,” she said. “And layering it gives the dish a pretty appearance.”

Robert Bradley, the chef at Bradley’s in Sandpoint, said casseroles are especially appealing this time of the year.

“They’re hearty and tasty,” he said. “I’m disappointed that casseroles are considered out of style. I think they’re delicious and perfect for busy people.”

With a little advance planning, a meal started on Monday can be transformed into different dishes that last until midweek.

“You start with a white bean and roasted garlic soup on Monday,” Bradley said. “Then on Tuesday you reduce that down a bit and add some asiago cheese and serve that as a sauce with a piece of grilled fish. Then the next day, you take that sauce and add a little beef stock and some sausage, chicken or duck and you have a French cassoulet.”

Birkebeiner Brewery chef Dale Yates likes the challenge of putting a fresh spin on old favorites.

One of his cold-weather staples is lasagna made by layering phyllo dough, smoked chicken, spinach, gorgonzola and walnuts.

“It’s fun to take a hodgepodge of stuff and put it together in a creative way,” he said. “When people think of tuna surprise, it doesn’t necessarily have to be canned fish and creamy noodles. Why not pan-blacken a piece of albacore, mix it with some vegetables and put a little cheese on top?”

Gina Lanza, from the Anaconda Grille, said casseroles are a terrific way to use leftovers.

“If you have some extra chicken, there are so many things you can pull off the shelf and mix with it. You don’t really have to do a lot of extra cooking,” she said.

While she doesn’t make many casseroles herself, Lanza is wellacquainted with America’s most beloved casserole recipe.

“Everybody loves lasagna. People are always asking for it,” she said.

The following recipes put a modern spin on the one-dish meal.

American Casserole

Sandpoint chef Robert Bradley was 16 and living in a hippie commune when he watched a man making a tuna casserole. He decided then to learn to cook: “I knew that I could survive if I could cook.” This is his Americanized take on the classic French cassoulet.

3 cups Great Northern white beans

1 whole bulb garlic

2 red bell peppers

Olive oil

1 onion, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon thyme

1 teaspoon basil

1 teaspoon oregano

Pinch cumin

1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

2 cups cooked meat, such as andouille sausage, roasted chicken, venison, duck or braised lamb

Soak beans overnight. Drain, cover with fresh water and bring to a boil. Simmer until done, 2 to 3 hours; drain and reserve.

Cut top 1/3 off garlic bulb (reserve tops for later) and rub exposed surface with olive oil. Wrap in foil and bake at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown.

Cut red peppers in half, remove stems and seeds and broil in oven until skin is charred black. Place in paper or plastic bag to steam; when cool enough, remove skins with back of knife.

In large pot, saute onion, celery and green pepper in olive oil until limp. Add roasted garlic and red peppers. Mince uncooked garlic bulb tops and add to mixture along with thyme, basil and oregano. Saute for five minutes; add a pinch of cumin.

Add beans and simmer 1 to 1 hours. Add Parmesan cheese and meat; heat through and serve.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Eggplant Gratin

Karla Graves, from Upstairs Downtown, grew up in an Italian family in which casseroles were a rarity. She credits her mother-in-law with teaching her the finer points of a one-dish dinner.

4 eggplants, cut lengthwise into -inch slices

Olive oil

1 large onion, diced

2 bell peppers, sliced

3-5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Fresh ground pepper

Coarse salt

1/3 pound low-fat ricotta cheese

4 eggs

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

3/4 cup milk

1/2 cup fresh basil

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Place eggplant slices on a sheet pan brushed with olive oil. Brush eggplant lightly with additional olive oil. Bake until eggplant is lightly golden, about 10 minutes.

Warm 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add onions and peppers; cook until softened. Add garlic, tomatoes, fennel seeds, parsley, fresh ground pepper and salt (to taste). Increase heat to high, stirring lightly until moisture from tomatoes evaporates; set aside.

In a mixing bowl, using a whisk, blend together ricotta and eggs. Add half the Parmesan cheese, the milk and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Whisk to the consistency of pourable cream.

Line a 6-cup gratin or casserole dish with about half the eggplant slices, in a single layer. Tear some basil leaves into fragments and scatter over eggplant. Season with fresh ground pepper. Sprinkle with half the remaining Parmesan; spread tomato mixture over the cheese. Arrange remaining eggplant slices on top. Pour cheese/egg mixture over everything and top with remaining Parmesan.

Place in preheated 450-degree oven and reduce heat to 350 degrees. Bake 35 to 40 minutes or until the custard is puffed up and golden. Serve hot with polenta.

Yield: 4-6 servings.

Tamale Pie

Birkebeiner Brewery chef Dale Yates honed his casserole repertoire while working on banquets in Sun Valley. He said baked dishes hold up well if a meal is delayed.

2 onions

1 carrot, cut into large pieces

2 stalks celery, cut into large pieces

2 cloves garlic

2 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

1 (4-pound) chicken

4 Anaheim chilis, diced

2 jalapeno peppers, diced

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon basil

2 teaspoons chili powder (preferably chipotle chili powder; see note)

1 cup sliced olives

1 cup corn

2 cups low-fat sour cream

2 cups feta cheese

Topping:

2 cups chicken stock

1 cup masa harina (see note)

2 eggs, separated

2 cups jack cheese, shredded

In a large pot, place 4 cups of water, 1 onion (quartered), carrot, celery, garlic, cloves, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; add chicken and cook until done, approximately 45 minutes. Strain and reserve stock, carefully ladling off fat that rises to the top. Pull meat from chicken and reserve.

In large pan, saute remaining onion (sliced), diced jalapenos and Anaheim chilis until onions are opaque. Add chicken meat, salt, basil, chili powder and chicken stock (reserving 2 cups for topping). Reduce until very little liquid remains. Stir in olives, corn, sour cream and feta cheese. Pour into casserole dish.

For topping, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Bring 2 cups chicken stock to a boil; slowly add masa harina, reduce heat and cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in egg yolks, then fold in beaten egg whites. Pour on top of chicken mixture, top with jack cheese and bake at 375 degrees until lightly browned.

Yield: 6 servings.

Note: Look for chipotle chili powder at such specialty stores as Harry O’s Fresh Market in Spokane.

Masa harina, an instant corn flour mix used in making tortillas, is available in the flour section of many supermarkets.

Greek Lasagna

The Anaconda Grille’s Gina Lanza said lasagna remains one of the most popular dishes on her menu. For people looking to lighten up the traditionally high-calorie casserole, she has cooked up a meatless version somewhat lower in fat.

1 pound lasagna noodles

2 cups low-fat ricotta cheese

2 eggs

1 cup nonfat cottage cheese

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons dried oregano

3 cloves minced garlic

3 cups marinara sauce (your favorite)

1 bunch (2 cups) fresh spinach

1 12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 cups low-fat mozzarella cheese

Cook lasagna noodles according to directions on box.

In large mixing bowl, combine ricotta cheese, eggs, cottage cheese, Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, oregano and garlic. Mix well.

Lightly oil 8- by 12-inch baking pan. Moisten bottom of pan with small amount of marinara sauce and add a single layer of noodles, 1/4 of the ricotta cheese mixture, 1/4 of the whole leaf spinach, 1/4 of the red peppers, a small sprinkle of feta cheese, 1/4 of the mozzarella cheese and a small amount of marinara sauce. Repeat layers three more times, ending with a final layer of noodles.

Cover top of noodles with remaining sauce. Cover and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour or more, until done.

Yield: 4-6 servings.

Chicken Verde

Caterer Sheila Collins indulges in a nostalgic recipe, served during the first dinner party her mother included her in when she was a teenager.

1 cup cottage cheese

1 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon flour

2 tablespoons minced onion

2 tablespoons chopped pimentos

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon seasoning salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 pound white mushrooms, sauteed in 2 tablespoons margarine (or two 4-ounce cans button mushrooms)

2 cups cooked spinach noodles

2 cups diced white chicken meat, cooked

1 15-ounce can artichoke hearts, quartered

1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Combine first 10 ingredients. Add sauteed mushrooms, noodles, chicken and artichoke hearts. Place in 2-quart casserole and top with cheese. Bake 35-45 minutes at 350 degrees.

Yield: 6 servings.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Staff illustration by A. Heitner