Mix A Little Imagination Into That Hamburger
Ground beef’s destiny is not in a bun. In the Mediterranean and Middle East, cooks prepare ground beef with imagination. It’s the base for the most aromatic, luscious entrees that a hamburger refugee could want.
Meatballs smothered in egg-lemon sauce are popular in Greece. In Syria and Lebanon, a favorite dish is the kefta kebab: finely ground beef formed into an oval around metal skewers and grilled or broiled. It is often served with a light, refreshing yogurt sauce.
And it’s reassuring to realize that elegant variations on the American hamburger are no more timeconsuming to prepare.
The following recipe for lemon-scented kebabs, a variation of the kefta kebab, is simply ground beef flavored with a little lemon peel, allspice and cilantro. The skewered cigar design makes the meat easier to turn on the grill.
Serve the kebabs with nutty rice pilaf - or, if old habits are impossible to break, in a hamburger bun.
Lemon-Scented Kebabs with Rice Pilaf and Yogurt Sauce
Yogurt sauce (recipe follows)
Rice pilaf (recipe follows)
3/4 pound lean ground beef
Grated peel of 1/2 lemon (1 heaping teaspoon)
1 tablespoon minced cilantro
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
Prepare yogurt sauce and set aside. Prepare rice pilaf.
While rice is cooking, combine beef, lemon peel, cilantro, salt and allspice in bowl. Knead briefly by hand to blend (for finer texture, process mixture in food processor fitted with steel blade 30 seconds).
Divide mixture into 4 parts. Form each into a cigar shape. Run one long skewer through each of 2 cigars (if working with short skewers, use 1 per cigar).
Place skewers on grate of grill over ash-covered coals about 4 inches from heat. Grill 5 minutes per side or until well browned, or place skewers on broiler pan 4 inches from heat and broil about 5 minutes per side.
To serve, place 2 cigars on each of 2 plates. Pass yogurt sauce on the side and rice pilaf as an accompaniment. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Yogurt Sauce
2/3 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
2 tablespoons minced green onion (white and green parts)
2 drops hot pepper sauce
Salt, freshly ground white pepper
Combine yogurt, mint, onion, hot pepper sauce and salt and pepper to taste in small bowl. If desired, chill 30 minutes before serving.
Yield: About 1 cup.
Rice Pilaf
1 tablespoon butter
1 large diced shallot (about 2 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons pine nuts
3/4 cup parboiled or converted rice
1-1/2 cups chicken broth
Salt, freshly ground white pepper
Heat butter in medium pan. Add shallot and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add pine nuts and saute until golden, about 3 minutes.
Add rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add chicken broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer until rice is tender and liquid absorbed, about 18 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Yield: 2 servings.