Methow Magic There’s Lot To Do, Even If You Want To Do Nothing

Everybody deserves a favorite vacation location, a destination without an agenda, a place where you can pretty much do whatever you want, whenever you want.

And for me, that place is the Methow Valley, on the eastern flanks of the North Cascades.

For a no-stress vacation, the Methow has it all: nice places to stay, from deluxe lodges to rustic cabins; decent places to eat; great hiking in the North Cascades National Park and Pasayten Wilderness; and cold, rainy weather in August.

At least it was cold and rainy this August, during the week I visited. And while that’s unusual, the North Cascades is famous for unpredictable weather. A couple of years ago, I visited Winthrop on the Fourth of July and again in September; it was much warmer in September.

But - usually - you can count on blue skies from late spring through early autumn, and the region truly offers four seasons of fun. In spring, there’s river rafting and mountain biking. In summer, there’s virtually every outdoor activity, including golf, horseback riding, water skiing, swimming, hiking, fishing and sightseeing. In autumn, there’s hunting (the Methow Valley has the state’s largest mule deer population), and orchards in the lower valley are brimming with fruit. And in winter, the valley attracts tourists from around the world for its cross-country skiing. With its 175 kilometers of groomed trails, linked to a variety of lodging from rustic huts to deluxe resorts, the Methow Valley has become one of the nation’s premier cross-country destinations.

Here are some of the things I enjoy seeing and doing around Winthrop. They’re in no particular order … just the way I like to plan a vacation.

Hiking

You can hike high into the North Cascades, or take almost-level ridgeline walks along the Pacific Crest Trail (though you’ll be driving up steep gravel roads to get there), or trek deep into the Pasayten Wilderness, or enjoy simple walks along handicapped-accessible trails.

Many guidebooks feature trails in the region. Hikes during Indian summer can be especially rewarding, with cool, clear days and almost-deserted trails, but storms can spring up suddenly, so hike with appropriate equipment. It would be very easy to get into trouble in these mountains if the weather turned nasty and you weren’t prepared.

Even with guidebooks and maps, it’s a good idea to stop at ranger stations for advice and information. And some of the back roads in the region are definitely not appropriate for trailers, campers or RVs.

Eating

The lineup of restaurants in Winthrop changes almost yearly, but the Duck Brand endures, with a menu that’s mostly Mexican but also veers into steak and pasta. The food is good, not great, the service ranges from fair to terrible, and you’ll often have to wait for a table, but it’s a very pleasant place to dine - especially outside - on a warm evening.

Make sure to save room for dessert; in my opinion, the Duck Brand serves the best fruit pie in Washington state (and if your heart is set on one variety, it’s not a bad idea to reserve a slice at the beginning of your meal). The cherry pie is always superb, though it was strongly challenged by the marionberry on a recent visit. You might also pick up a couple of cinnamon rolls for breakfast; they’re hefty enough to fuel a day’s hiking

I’ve also had some decent meals at the Winthrop Palace, where it’s fun to dine on the second-floor balcony and watch the pedestrians below.

The restaurant at Sun Mountain Lodge is highly rated - four diamonds from AAA but it’s pricey (dinner entrees range from $18 to $25), and to tell the truth I’ve only eaten breakfast there. Usually, when I’m on vacation, I like to do some recreational cooking - both for fun and to save money - which brings me to …

Cabins

Winthrop and vicinity have a wide variety of vacation cabins available, from small units along the busy highway to secluded hideaways.

I stayed at two of the secluded variety in August and can recommend them highly:

Sun Mountain Resort this year completed several two-story cabins at Patterson Lake, about a mile below the resort. They’re roomy (two bedrooms, living room, two full baths) and nicely furnished, with a small kitchen, and overlook the lake and a small play area where children quickly make friends with each other.

The lake also features rowboats, paddleboats and sailboats, which guests can rent for around $5 per hour. Guests also are free to use the facilities of the main lodge, including a hot tub, pool and tennis courts. And in July and August, there are organized activities for children at an extra cost.

Drawbacks include the nine-mile drive to Winthrop, which gets tiresome rather quickly, the lack of phones or televisions in the units, and the price: $200 to $250 per night in summer. Older cabins at the lake are cheaper, but very small.

Wolf Ridge Lodge is a newer resort on the banks of the Methow River, about five miles from Winthrop. It has very attractive log-cabin style units, with full kitchens (including a dishwasher) and cathedral ceilings.

There’s a heated pool and hot tub (the hot tub is open 24 hours) and a play area for children. My kids enjoyed a nighttime stroll under the light of a full moon along a path leading to the nearby river.

Units are quite a bit cheaper than Sun Mountain ($139 for a two-bedroom townhouse; $93 for a one-bedroom suite). On the minus side, you have to drive into town to eat if you’re not planning your own cooking, and there aren’t any organized activities.

Miscellaneous stuff

There’s a farmers’ market every Saturday morning in downtown Twisp, 11 miles south of Winthrop. I haven’t visited it, due to my propensity for sleeping in while on vacation, but the locals recommend it highly.

In late summer and early autumn, you’ll see plenty of fruit stands along the highway in the lower valley. There are lots of apples, of course, but you’ll also find local tomatoes, peaches and plums.

The Omak Stampede and Suicide Race in August is one of those events that you should see once in your lifetime, even if you’re not a rodeo fan.

It’s a mixture of patriotism, excitement, humor, danger (for the participants) and tacky commercialism (with constant references to the main sponsor, a brewery). Events like calf roping and bull riding are much more exciting in the flesh than on TV. So is the famous - and controversial - suicide race, in which horses and riders gallop down a cliff, swim across a river and sprint into the stadium; some horses finish riderless.

Evening rodeo performances are recommended, since Omak can be brutally hot in August.

Downtown Winthrop (all two blocks of it) is always fun for strolling and sightseeing. The town has retained its Old West character with false storefronts and a boardwalk, and there are lots of places to buy souvenirs.

So for a place where I go to do absolutely nothing, Winthrop and the Methow Valley offer plenty of something.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: 3 Photos

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go For more information: Okanogan Country Tourism Council, (800) 225-6625 or (509) 826-5107. Methow Valley Ranger District, U.S. Forest Service, (509) 996-2266. Okanogan National Forest Supervisor’s Office, (509) 826-3275. Winthrop Ranger District, (509) 996-2266. Omak Stampede (always held the second week in August), (800) 933-6625 or (509) 826-1983. Methow Valley Central Reservations, for information and reservations about 95 lodgings: (800) 422-3048; (509) 996-2148. Methow Valley Sport Trails Association, for information on mountain biking and crosscountry skiing: (509) 996-3287. Winthrop Chamber of Commerce, (509) 996-2125. Wolf Ridge Resort: (509) 996-2828. Sun Mountain Lodge: (800) 572-0493 or (509) 996-2211. Alpine Adventures (river rafting, float trips), (800) 926-RAFT.