A Night To Play Chards

My pool of mouthwatering wine descriptions was drying up.

So, I invited a group of wine swilling chums to help churn up the creative juices. Even though these people prefer reds, I talked them into trying chardonnays from Washington and California.

And the adjectives they came up with to describe the wines were doozies, like “this one tastes like Boone’s Farm” or “I feel like I just had mouthwash.”

What became clear by the end of this smelling and sipping exercise was that we all have very individual tastes.

One man’s mouthwash is another’s heavenly elixir.

Throwing a wine tasting is fairly easy. You could even invite your pals to bring their favorite of a featured varietal. Then, hide the labels in brown paper bags, so each wine will get a fair shake. Line up the glasses and pour. I broke our tasting up into two rounds of four wines each, and I provided everyone with paper and pencil to record their comments. Afterwards, we voted on our favorites.

We had our tasting at The Anaconda Grille, so we could evaluate how well the wines went with chef Gina Lanza’s terrific food. Plus, the restaurant doesn’t charge a corking fee, so it makes a party like ours affordable. (You are required to get a $10 banquet permit at a state liquor store when you visit the Anaconda, though.)

So, here’s what everyone had to say about each of the 1995 chardonnays, in the order in which they were tasted:

Bookwalter ($10) from the Tri-Cities was trounced by some who found it “too fruity,” “great for a riesling, but not a chard” and “tastes like Boone’s Farm.” Yet, others found it “dry and citrusy with just enough acid to keep it interesting” and “a good deck wine.”

Stonestreet ($24) from California’s Napa Valley set off bells and whistles for a few who said its woodsy, spicy flavor made the wine “the fighter pilot of chardonnays.” One person liked it well enough to compare it to a red wine, describing it as “smoky and rich with lots of body.” Those who were lukewarm about the wine said it tasted of “wet wood” and “this might work with food, but it doesn’t stand alone.”

Balcom and Moe ($10) was given a big thumbs down by the entire panel. One taster dubbed it “cooking wine” while another said it “made my stomach lurch.” Now that’s not the kind of stuff you’re going to read in those snobby wine publications.

Sebastiani ($10) from Sonoma fared better, with people noting its “subtle fruit, smooth finish and a nice spicy flavor.” One woman said it made her tongue tingle. But we couldn’t quite determine if that was good or bad.

Paul Thomas ($14), the Washington winery now owned by Associated Vintners, was described by a single sipper as “a little too forward. Like a kiss on a bad date.” Another asked, “Is this Zima?” Yet another rated it as his third favorite wine of the evening, saying it was “lean, but nice.”

William Hill’s chardonnay ($20) from Napa Valley got better “the longer it sat in the glass,” according to one taster. But another said: “I thought I liked it, but the aftertaste kicked me in the rear.”

David Lake’s signature chardonnay from Columbia Winery ($20) was my favorite, but others found it “too rich,” “too alcoholic” and with a “watery finish.”

Finally, Columbia Crest’s release ($10) split more palates. One taster found it had a “nice balance” and another said it “has the taste of a big-time chardonnay.” Others turned their noses up at it, calling the wine “overpowering” and saying it “lacks character” and “clears the sinuses.”

Even though we disagreed about virtually every wine, the spirited discussion made for a fun evening. It was a great way to try a bunch of wines. We decided to meet again soon and try reds. And now I’m fully stocked with interesting adjectives.

Know-how in a nutshell

Beware of wine books that promise “each point can be absorbed in an instant” or “quick answers to all questions.”

But the new pocket-sized book from DK Publishing called “101 Essential Tips on Wine” has some things to recommend it. For one, it’s just $6.95.

It covers lots of basic territory including “tasting do’s and don’ts,” how to start a cellar and the stages a vine goes through during a growing season, with prose and pictures. The no-nonsense writing is easy to swallow, not the usual pretentious pap.

Here’s an example: “The traditional vineyard adage that the poorer the soil, the better the wine, arises from a vine’s need for very well-drained soil. Warm soil … retains heat, which speeds ripening.” (Ah, so that’s why vines flourish in Washington’s scablands.)

This book is probably too elementary for seasoned connoisseurs, but it makes a good starting point for anyone interested in learning more about grapegrowing, winemaking and enjoying the finished product.

Here’s the most fascinating thing I learned: The biggest bottle of wine made is called a Nebuchadnezzar. It’s equivalent to 20 standard bottles. And I would love to make the acquaintance of anyone who keeps a stash of those in their cellar.

More barrels full of fun

It’s getting hard to keep up with all these barrel tastings. With folks sipping samples out of oak containers in Yakima, Spokane and now the Tri-Cities, it’s a wonder there’s any wine left to bottle.

The next big barrel bash is June 7-8 at the following Tri-Cities area wineries: Badger Mountain, Barnard Griffin, Bookwalter, Claar Cellars, Columbia Crest, Gordon Brothers, Hedges Cellars, Hogue, Kiona, Oakwood, Preston Premium Wines and Seth Ryan. All wineries are open from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. that weekend.

As is de rigeur at these events, wineries will be inducing tasters with special deals and various munchies.

For additional information, call (509) 627-5000.

Suggested sippings

I’ve sampled some pleasant stuff lately. The following recommendations are all around $10:

Cotes d’ Oakley vin rouge is a California wine with a French accent. It’s a blend of some little known varietals from France, including carignane, syrah, mourvedre, cinsault and alicante bouschet. Spicy and easy to sip, this Rhone-style wine would be a fine match for barbecued ribs.

Worden’s latest cabernet-merlot is another good candidate for accompanying grilled food. It has jammy berry flavors and drinks smooth. I also like that winery’s spicy, crisp gewurztraminer.

Columbia Crest’s ‘95 semillon-chardonnay is a fine melding of those two very different grapes. The buttery chardonnay takes the edge off the sharp semillon for a rich mix. It matched up well with pasta in a sauce of fresh tomatoes, garlic and white wine.

A hefty Kendall-Jackson zinfandel offered further proof that this California giant can seemingly do no wrong. It was powerful with deep black cherry flavors and touches of spice.

, DataTimes MEMO: Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486, fax 459-5098 or e-mail to lesliek@spokesman.com

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review