Cod, cauliflower soup low in fat

Steamed cod with cauliflower in saffron broth, served with a slow-cooked onion salad if you wish, adds up to a savory range of flavor and texture while still meeting low-fat guidelines.

The recipes are from Gourmet magazine’s December issue, from the Every Day feature. A note suggests that if you decide to make the onion salad as well as the fish dish, you can cook the cauliflower while the onions finish roasting. Steam the mussels and cod after the onions are done, just before assembling your salad.

Steamed Cod with Cauliflower in Saffron Broth

1 large pinch of saffron threads, crumbled

1 cup lukewarm water

One 2-pound head cauliflower

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 small carrot, cut into 1/4 -inch dice (1/3 cup)

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup fat-free reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1 1/2 pounds small to medium mussels (preferably cultivated; 3 dozen), scrubbed and beards removed

Six 1/4 -pound pieces cod or scrod fillet (1 inch thick), skinned and pin bones removed

3 scallions, chopped (2/3 cup)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Put saffron threads in a small bowl, then stir in lukewarm water and let stand.

Trim cauliflower stalk flush with base of crown, discarding stalk, then quarter cauliflower lengthwise. Cut each quarter lengthwise into 1/2 -inch-thick slices. Set aside large slices and reserve small pieces without any stem for another use.

Swirl oil with garlic in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet to coat, then heat over moderately high heat until oil is just smoking. Discard garlic. Carefully arrange cauliflower slices in a one layer in skillet and cook until undersides are lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn over with tongs and cook until other sides are lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Add carrot and wine and swirl skillet to combine, then boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 30 seconds. Add saffron water, broth, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper and simmer, covered, until cauliflower and carrot are crisp-tender, 5 to 8 minutes.

While cauliflower simmers, pat fish dry and sprinkle both sides with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper.

Increase heat to moderately high, then add mussels to skillet and steam, covered, until mussels just open wide, checking frequently after 3 to 4 minutes. (Discard any mussels that remain unopened after 8 minutes.) Divide mussels among six shallow serving bowls using a slotted spoon.

Place cod on top of cauliflower, arranging fillets in one layer. Sprinkle with scallions and parsley and steam, covered, over moderately high heat until fish is cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes.

Transfer some of cauliflower along one piece of cod to each bowl using slotted spoon. Season broth with salt and white pepper, then ladle broth (with carrots) over each serving.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: Unable to calculate.

The salad includes several onion-related vegetables – shallots, leeks, garlic and chives. For tender results, be sure to peel off the papery outer layer, the leathery second layer and any paper-thin membranes from the onions, shallots and leeks.

Slow-cooked Onion Salad

For onion mixture:

4 medium leeks (1 pound total; white and pale green parts only), trimmed and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces (1 cup)

2 tablespoons mild honey

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 sweet onion such as Vidalia ( 1/2 pound), trimmed and cut crosswise into 6 slices

1 large red onion ( 1/2 pound), trimmed and cut lengthwise into 6 wedges

1 large white onion (10 ounces), trimmed and cut lengthwise into 6 wedges

6 medium shallots (10 ounces total), trimmed

8 fresh thyme sprigs

For salad:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon coarse-grain mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 Belgian endives

5 cups baby spinach (5 ounces)

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives or scallions

Lemon wedges, to accompany

To make onion mixture:

Put oven rack in upper third of oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a large shallow baking pan with foil, allowing 2 inches to hang over each end of pan.

Wash leek pieces well in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well.

Whisk together honey, oil, salt and pepper, and add onions, shallots and leeks, tossing to coat. Spread onion mixture in an even layer in baking pan. Scatter thyme on top, then cover with another large sheet of foil and crimp edges all around to seal, forming a package.

Roast until very tender, about 1 hour. Carefully remove top sheet of foil (steam will emerge) and turn on broiler. Broil onion mixture 5 to 6 inches from heat until tops of onions are browned and caramelized, 2 to 5 minutes. (Check frequently, removing pieces as they brown.) Discard thyme.

Make salad while onion mixture roasts: Whisk together oil, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper in a large bowl.

Trim endives and halve lengthwise. Cut in half crosswise, then cut lengthwise into 1/4 -inch-wide strips.

Just before serving, add endives to dressing along with spinach and chives and toss until lightly coated. Season with salt and pepper. Divide salad among 6 plates and top with warm onion mixture.

Cooks’ notes: Onions, shallots and leeks can be roasted a day ahead and cooled completely, then chilled, covered. Reheat in a preheated 350-degree oven, 5 to 10 minutes. Dressing can be made 3 hours ahead and chilled, covered.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: Unable to calculate.