Hum of Hawthorne
Portland is a great place to visit. You could spend a week exploring museums, shops and other attractions without setting foot outside of the city’s famously compact and walkable urban core. But there’s a lot more to the Rose City than pricey condos and gleaming public transit. If you’re starting to feel like you’ve seen all Portland has to offer, it might be time to venture out of downtown.
Perhaps the best place to start is the Hawthorne district, centered around the intersection of 37th Street and Hawthorne Boulevard in southeast Portland, about three miles from downtown.
Contrasted with Portland’s compact and bustling downtown, Hawthorne is a little more spread-out and laid-back (though not necessarily quieter – Hawthorne Boulevard is a busy four-lane arterial that constantly hums with traffic).
In the heart of the neighborhood you’ll find a 10-block strip of unique stores, coffee shops, bars and restaurants. It’s a great place to kill an afternoon or an entire weekend.
Food and entertainment
If Hawthorne has a focal point, it’s the Bagdad Theater, a grand, Middle Eastern-style building at 37th and Hawthorne that is home to a second-run movie theater and brewpub.
Owned by the ubiquitous McMenamin’s chain, the Bagdad features microbrews and a full menu. The Bagdad’s heated outdoor seating makes for great people-watching, even on a chilly fall day.
In addition to movies, the Bagdad occasionally hosts concerts and readings; check the Web site at www.mcmenamins.com for a schedule. (Live music can also be heard at the Hawthorne Theater, an all-ages venue at 1507 S.E. 39th Ave.)
Another popular neighborhood brewpub is the BridgePort Ale House (www.bridgeportbrew.com) at 3632 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., featuring pub grub and award-winning craft beers.
But there’s much more than burgers and beer to be found here. Walk far enough in either direction on Hawthorne and you’ll find Indian, Italian, French, Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants, along with coffee shops, breakfast joints and the occasional upscale bistro.
Stop by Chez Machin (3553 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.) for some decadent crepes, Mio Sushi (3962 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., www.miosushi.com) for reasonably priced nigiri and the semi-famous “sushi pizza,” or the Waffle Window (on 36th Avenue behind the Bread and Ink Cafe) for waffles that are – you guessed it – served from a window.
Be sure to save room for a trip to Pix Patisserie (3402 S.E. Division St., www.pixpatisserie.com). Yes, there is a Pix (pronounced just like it looks: “picks”) on Hawthorne Boulevard, but it’s worth it to walk the half-mile south to the original location on Division, which serves beer and wine and has a Parisian atmosphere suitable for slowly savoring your Pear Rosemary Tart or Queen of Sheba Truffle Cake.
Shopping
In many ways, Hawthorne is a smaller, easier-to-manage version of downtown. Many of the city’s more popular retail chains have outlets in the neighborhood, including Powell’s Books, Red Light Clothing Exchange, Buffalo Exchange and Jackpot Records.
In addition, you’ll find a wide range of shops, from upscale clothing to vintage housewares and all manner of gifts and tchotchkes in between.
The Powell’s Books at 3723 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. is considerably smaller than the flagship downtown store, but “smaller” is relative. The store is still expansive and well-stocked, and even has an adjacent coffee shop.
Two doors down, you’ll find Powell’s Books for Home and Garden, a shop that is about half books and half gadgets and gifts for the kitchen and bathroom.
The aforementioned Buffalo Exchange (1420 S.E. 37th Ave., www.buffaloexchange.com) and Red Light (3590 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.) are popular used-clothing chains that are packed with twentysomethings on weekends. (So if you have an aversion to ‘80s music and ironic fashion choices, you might want to steer clear.)
No trip to Hawthorne, however, is complete without a visit to the House of Vintage – a vast antique mall at 3315 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. that specializes in vintage and Modern furniture, clothing and other items.
If you’re into console stereos, TV-themed lunchboxes, board games and other ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s kitsch, this is your Xanadu.
Places to stay
The Hawthorne district is devoid of hotels and motels, but there are two places to stay that offer very affordable rates and unique surroundings if you’re willing to sacrifice a few amenities.
The Portland Hostel, the smaller of the city’s two hostels (the other is in the Nob Hill neighborhood northwest of downtown), has two private rooms in addition to the typical dorm bunks.
Located in an old house at 3031 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., the hostel has a full kitchen and dining area where budget-conscious travelers can prepare their own meals, and an expansive porch.
It’s also home to a precocious cat named Bailey, who, despite his best efforts, is not allowed in the sleeping rooms for the sake of the allergy-prone.
Staying at a hostel means giving up television and telephones, which can be either a plus or a minus. You’ll also have to do without a private bathroom, but with rooms starting at $40 a night (summer rates are higher), you may not mind having to wait a few minutes for the shower in the morning.
Similar accommodations without the backpacker vibe can be found at the Bluebird Guesthouse (www.bluebirdguesthouse.com, 866-717-4333), at 3517 S.E. Division St., an easy 15-minute walk south of Hawthorne.
The Bluebird has seven rooms ranging from $45 to $70 a night (winter rates) depending on size and amenities.
The rooms, named for writers and musicians (including Sherman Alexie and Elliott Smith), are unique, quiet and spotless, and two of the rooms come with private bathrooms. Rates include a continental breakfast, and guests are free to use the kitchen.
Both the Portland Hostel and the Bluebird can book up weeks in advance, so reservations are highly recommended. Neither provides parking, but on-street parking is easy to find in both locations.