From fresh to frozen

“Putting food by” during the growing season to eat during the inhospitable winter is a tradition as old as farming. In days of yore people had to rely on root cellars, salting, pickling, drying, smoking and canning to make perishable food last, but we’ve got it easy: we have freezers.

Some of my first food memories are of the sultry summer days my entire extended family spent at my grandparents’ farm, processing sweet corn to freeze. The trick was to get the perfectly ripe produce into the freezer as quickly as possible, and that is still true today.

All those other methods of food preservation are still used, of course. Not only do they create distinctive foods (think sauerkraut, bacon, kimchi, jerky…) they don’t rely on electricity. It’s undeniable, however, that freezing preserves many foods so well it can be hard to tell the difference between frozen and fresh.

We must differentiate here between what passes for a freezer on your refrigerator, and a separate upright or chest freezer.

Extension food safety specialist Sandy McCurdy at the University of Idaho explained that for long-term storage without significant loss of food quality, a freezer must be consistently at 0 degrees Fahrenheit or colder. Most refrigerator freezers are opened too often to get that cold, so if you want to get serious about using a freezer, you’ll need a separate one.

Food keeps ever so slightly better in a manual defrost freezer than in a frost-free model since the temperature is more consistent over time; they are also less expensive to run since they require less electricity. Frost-free, however, means you never have to empty it out to let the frost melt.

Whether or not a freezer pays for itself in food costs depends on how you use it. But it can really pay off when it comes to food quality and taste. A freezer allows you to store produce from your own garden or farmer’s market or U-pick orchard so you don’t have to buy something shipped from Mexico or New Zealand at the grocery store in January. It is more economical to buy a quarter of a grass-fed beef or a whole grass-fed lamb directly from the farmer than in small amounts from a store. And when you can double or triple the quantity of something you’re preparing at home and freeze some for later, you’re less likely to need to pick up fast food on your way home for dinner.

Air is the enemy of frozen foods, so when packing food for freezing, remove as much air from the package as possible, and seal tightly. Double wrap, using heavy duty plastic designed for use in the freezer, heavy duty aluminum foil, and butcher-type freezer paper for meats and fish. Vacuum sealers are available for home use and they’re a good investment if you use your freezer a lot. Use rigid containers made of plastic or glass (wide mouth canning jars are ideal) for food that is runny at room temperature, leaving airspace at the top so it has room to expand.

Freeze in small quantities; for instance, if you have a gallon of fresh cider to freeze, divide it into 4 quart jars. McCurdy says, “Our advice to people is that you want to freeze food as quickly as possible, so you don’t want to do too big of a volume. Smaller packages freeze faster, and the faster it freezes, the smaller the ice crystals, and the less damage to the food.”

Smaller packages will thaw more quickly, too, and be more convenient to use. Remember, don’t put a frozen baking dish in the oven unless it is designed for that.

Keep your freezer organized in a way that makes sense to you, perhaps divided into meat, dairy, pre-prepared foods, baked goods, and fruits and vegetables. Make sure you label everything clearly and keep a written inventory on the outside of the freezer, otherwise, you’ll forget what’s there.

If you have a freezer and want to get the most out of it, or are considering investing in one, consult one of the several excellent books available on using freezers, such as “Can I Freeze It?” by Susie Theodorou. General cookbooks such as the “All New Good Housekeeping Cookbook” have sections on freezing foods as well. You can also visit your local extension office, or download information for free from the extension Web site, at http://info.ag.uidaho.edu:591/catalog/family.html (click on Food and Nutrition).

Here are some recipe ideas:

Garlic Dill Butter

From “Preserving Summer’s Bounty.” Instead of making herb ice cubes make a paste or butter. To make an herb paste, take 2 cups fresh washed herbs such as parsley, basil, dill or chives and puree in a food processor while drizzling in 1/2 to 3/4 cup olive oil. Pour or spoon into ice cube trays and freeze.

Herb pastes are good for making pasta sauces, casseroles or herb breads. Butters can be used the same way or they can season fish, grains and vegetables.

6 cloves garlic, whole

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

Dash of paprika

In a small saucepan combine the garlic with water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain, let cool, and slip the skins off the garlic. Crush the garlic through a press. In a food processor or blender, combine the garlic, butter, dill and paprika. Process until well combined and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

To freeze: Prepare the recipe as directed. Pack in small freezer containers or roll into a log and wrap in wax paper and freezer wrap.

Yield: About 2/3 cup

Approximate nutrition per .5-ounce serving: 105 calories, 11.5 grams fat (7 grams saturated, 96 percent fat calories), less than 1 gram protein, 1 gram carbohydrate, 31 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 117 milligrams sodium.

Ratatouille

From the “Busy Person’s Guide to Preserving Food.” This is a great way to preserve the zucchini, tomato, eggplant and green pepper harvests.

6 tablespoons olive oil

3 onions, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 medium to large peeled eggplants, diced

2 green peppers, diced

2 red peppers, diced

8 medium zucchini, sliced

6 tomatoes, chopped

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 cup water

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 cup chopped fresh basil

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil. Add the onions, garlic, eggplant, and peppers and sauté until the vegetables are limp, about 8 minutes.

Stir in the zucchini, tomatoes, tomato paste and water. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for about 15 minutes.

Add herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Continue cooking, uncovered, for about 10 more minutes.

Cool for 1 hour, stirring often.

Package in meal-size portions in straight-sided containers. Leave 1 inch headspace. Label and freeze. Thaw and serve with rice or pasta and some grated parmesan cheese.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 174 calories, 9 grams fat (1 gram saturated, 42 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 22 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 7 grams dietary fiber, 90 milligrams sodium.

Broccoli-Cheese Quiche

From “Preserving Summer’s Bounty

Quiches” make very good freezer foods. Make several at a time so that you have an easy and convenient meal when you need it.

2 cups broccoli florets

1/2 cup chopped onions

1 cup cottage or ricotta cheese

1/4 cup buttermilk or yogurt

3 eggs beaten

1/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese

Dash of freshly grated nutmeg

1 unbaked pie crust

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Steam the broccoli and onions separately for 3 to 4 minutes, just until crisp-tender. Rinse with cold water, drain and set aside.

Combine the cottage or ricotta cheese and buttermilk or yogurt in a blender or food processor on low speed. (To make a smooth mixture without a blender, the cheese can be pressed through a sieve.)

Place the cheese mixture in a mixing bowl and add the beaten eggs, Swiss cheese and dash of nutmeg. Place the onions in the bottom of the unbaked piecrust and pour the cheese mixture over them. Arrange the broccoli florets on top, pressing down into the cheese mixture. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes then reduce the heat to 350 degrees and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes more. The quiche should be puffed and brown. Serve hot or cold.

To freeze: Prepare the recipe as directed, but bake the quiche about 10 minutes less than the recipe calls for. Cool, then wrap in freezer wrap or foil or place in a freezer bag and freeze. To serve, thaw the frozen quiche in the refrigerator. Then bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes.

Yield: 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 257 calories, 15 grams fat (4.5 grams saturated, 51 percent fat calories), 12 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrate, 112 milligrams cholesterol, 1.6 grams dietary fiber, 377 milligrams sodium.

Freezer Meatballs

From the “Busy Person’s Guide to Preserving Food.”

5 pounds lean ground beef

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups oatmeal

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

3 large cloves garlic

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons dried basil

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

1 tablespoon salt

3/4 teaspoon black pepper

Place the beef in a large bowl. Put the eggs, oatmeal, cheese, garlic, onions, herbs and spices in a blender or food processor. Puree until smooth. Add to the beef and mix thoroughly with your hands.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Shape the meat mixture into 1-inch balls. Place on lightly greased cookie sheets.

Bake for 25 minutes.

Cool at room temperature for 30 minutes; drain fat. Spread meatballs on a tray and freeze. When frozen, pack in plastic freezer bags and return to the freezer.

Yield: About 100 meatballs

Approximate nutrition per 3.75-ounce serving: 283 calories, 16.5 grams fat (7.4 grams saturated, 54 percent fat calories), 26 grams protein, 5.7 grams carbohydrate, 111 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 134 milligrams sodium.

Strawberry Soufflé

From “Freezing & Drying” by Ortho Books. This recipe can be frozen in individual soufflé dishes, too.

6 large eggs, separated

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 cups pureed fresh strawberries

1/3 to 1/2 cup orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

1/3 cup fresh orange juice

3 cups whipping cream

Whole strawberries for garnish

Prepare 1 1/2 quart soufflé dish with a lightly oiled 2 1/2 inch collar of heavy-duty foil.

In a large bowl, beat egg yolks with 3/4 cup of the sugar until thick and lemon colored. Stir in 1 cup of the pureed strawberries.

Cook and stir yolk mixture in top of double boiler until thickened. Do not boil. Remove from heat and cool completely. Blend in orange liqueur.

In a separate saucepan, combine remaining 1 cup sugar with orange juice. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Continue cooking without stirring until liquid reaches soft-ball stage (245 degrees).

While sugar and orange juice cook, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly pour in hot orange syrup, beating until stiff peaks form.

Whip cream until soft peaks form. Fold into cooled yolk mixture. Fold in remaining strawberry puree. Gently fold in egg white mixture. Spoon into soufflé dish. Freeze until firm. Serve, or wrap in freezer material and freeze for up to several days. To serve, remove freezer wrap and collar; decorate top with whole strawberries.

Yield: 12 to 16 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving, based on 16: 290 calories, 18.5 grams fat (11 grams saturated, 56 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrate, 140 milligrams cholesterol, 41 milligrams sodium.