Spiced-up traditions

Thanksgiving is no time to mess with tradition. Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy – don’t forget the pumpkin pie – there are simply some dishes that have to grace the table.

For my husband, it’s not Thanksgiving without his mother’s cranberry-orange relish. But my grandfather wouldn’t dream of having turkey and trimmings without a generous slice of jellied cranberry sauce from the can.

Don’t give up the traditions that make it Thanksgiving at your house, but consider adding something new to the table.

If you’re bringing something to someone else’s celebration, you’ll need ideas for dishes that won’t encroach on the host or hostess’ territory. If you’re still setting the menu for your celebration, why not start with someone else’s recipe and then tweak it for your own tastes?

We asked area chefs and cooks to share some of their favorite Thanksgiving recipes. The result was mix of traditional dishes, along with ideas for branching out beyond green bean casserole and canned yams.

These same chefs wrote up recipes and ideas for leftovers, too. Those will appear in next Wednesday’s Food section.

Pete Tobin, chef and instructor at the Inland Northwest Culinary Academy, shared his sure-fire secrets for moist, flavorful turkey. It just might turn your turkey roasting technique, well, on its breast.

Tobin brines the turkey and slow roasts it breast-side down to keep it moist.

“I know it is hard to break from tradition. If you are looking for something different or you have never cooked a turkey, give this a try and you may start a whole new tradition,” he says.

He also shared his recipe for Sausage and Pear Stuffing.

Dave Westfall might be best known as a partner in the Spokane winery Grande Ronde Cellars, but he’s also a fabulous chef.

He shared ideas for roasting the bird and two surprising accompaniments for the Thanksgiving Day turkey.

“Fill the cavity (of the turkey) with some salt and ½ teaspoon of poultry seasoning, 5 sprigs of parsley, 3 stalks of celery and a large onion. This will impart flavor to the turkey and you can discard this concoction after the turkey is cooked,” he says.

“I usually have about ¼ pound butter and ¼ cup of water (heated to melt the butter) that I use to baste the turkey for the first couple of hours. After that you can use the juices that are building up in the roasting pan.”

Be sure to make enough for leftovers. The Italian Plum Chutney and Mango Slaw recipes below not only are wonderful with roasted turkey, Westfall says, but they’re essential condiments for the Aromatic Curried Turkey recipe he suggests for the next day. (That recipe will appear in next Wednesday’s story.)

The plum chutney can be made a few days ahead and the mango slaw will not only add some great flavors, but also colors to your meals, he says.

Chef Sylvia Wilson shared a recipe for Parsnip Gratin that she loves. The former owner of Mizuna restaurant now runs Feast Catering Co.

“Over the years I have developed a love for parsnips, and they seem so underrated and, well, … unknown,” she says. “I am not sure if most people could identify one.”

“What I love is that they have such a sweet, earthy flavor that nothing else can quite mimic. For me, the secret to releasing their subtle sweetness is in cooking them in the oven very slowly.”

Wilson suggests roasting parsnips alone or alongside roasts. They’re also great in stews or soups.

Chef Karen Torkelson from the Women’s and Children’s Free Restaurant shared a quick Coffee Toffee Trifle for those who might like to offer something for dessert other than pumpkin pie.

It’s an easy recipe that can be made the day before and refrigerated, or whipped together a few hours before dinner and refrigerated.

Or, play with the pumpkin theme for dessert by offering the signature Pumpkin Spice Cake from Madeleine’s Cafe and Patisserie in downtown Spokane. Chef Deb Green says they adapted Jan Peugh’s recipe for this impressive dessert so it could be baked in three 8-inch round cake pans.

“It is a really moist and delicious cake,” she says.

Slow Roasted Turkey

From Chef Pete Tobin, Inland Northwest Culinary Academy instructor. He suggests allowing 1 pound of turkey per person. The Butterball Turkey “Thanksgiving Guide” says cooks can double that if you want leftovers.

1 large turkey (18 to 20 pounds)

2 cups kosher salt or 1 cup table salt

3 medium onions, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

1 tablespoon thyme

3 tablespoons butter

1 bay leaf

3 tablespoons cornstarch

Remove giblets, neck and tail from turkey. Rinse bird well.

Pour 2 gallons of water into a lined or food-safe bucket or large pot. Add salt and stir well. Place turkey in the water. Refrigerate below 40 degrees for eight hours.

To cook the turkey: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Remove turkey from water and rinse well with cold water until all traces of salt are gone.

Place 1/3 of the vegetables in the cavity of the turkey. Place another 1/3 on the bottom of the roasting pan along with the thyme.

Truss the legs of the bird together and spread the butter over the entire bird. Place bird breast side down over vegetables. (Note: If you have a rack to place bird on, use it so the skin won’t stick to the vegetables.)

Pour 1 cup of water into the pan and roast 3 hours. Baste the back side every hour and replace water if the vegetables dry out.

Remove bird from oven and close oven door. Turn the bird over so the breast side is up. Return to oven and baste the breast well. Roast for an additional hour.

Turn oven up to 400 degrees and roast until the skin turns golden brown and internal temperature is 165 in the thickest part of the thigh.

To make the gravy: While the turkey is roasting breast side down. Place tail, neck, giblets, bay leaf and remaining vegetables in a saucepan.

Place 6 cups cold water in the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook 1 hour uncovered. Remove any scum from the surface. Add liver in last 5 minutes of cooking.

Strain the stock and hold in the refrigerator. Dice the giblets and liver. Reserve until later.

When the turkey is finished cooking, remove from oven and hold in a warm place.

Strain any pan drippings into a saucepan. Deglaze the roasting pan by heating it over two burners and adding the cool stock from above. Heat and remove any brown bits that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan.

Strain into the saucepan. Add the diced giblets; simmer 5 minutes. Mix cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of cold water and add to the sauce; stir well and bring to a boil. The sauce will thicken.

Carve the turkey and serve.

Yield: 18 to 20 servings

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Sausage and Pear Stuffing

From Chef Pete Tobin, Inland Northwest Culinary Academy

1/2 pound pork sausage, diced fine

1 medium onion, chopped

3 firm pears, peeled and cut

1/4 cup brandy

3 egg whites

1 1/2 cups chicken or turkey broth

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon sage

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 cup cooked canned chestnuts (optional)

6 cups dried bread cubed (rye or wheat)

1/2 cup dried pitted prunes, chopped

1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped

Heat large skillet over medium high. Add chopped sausage and cook until brown. Remove to a bowl with slotted spoon.

Drain excess fat. Return skillet to heat; add onion and cook until soft. Add pears and continue to cook 10 minutes.

Turn heat to high and add brandy. Cook until reduced to half. Add this mixture to sausage.

Whisk eggs with broth. Season with salt, pepper, sage and nutmeg. Add this to sausage mixture along with bread and remaining ingredients; toss well.

Turn into buttered baking dish. Cover with foil and bake at 350 to 400 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove foil and dry 5 more minutes.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

Approximate nutrition per 5-ounce serving: 224 calories, 9 grams fat (2 grams saturated, 34 percent fat calories), 8 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrate, 10 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams dietary fiber, 367 milligrams sodium.

Italian Plum Chutney

From Dave Westfall, Grande Ronde Cellars

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 large onion

1-inch piece fresh ginger, minced

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon allspice

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 teaspoons chili powder

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup lime juice

4 tablespoons cider vinegar

5 tablespoons brown sugar

20 Italian plums, washed, pitted and quartered

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil. Add onion and ginger. Add spices (the heat helps release their flavors). Add the water to deglaze the pan.

Add the lime juice, vinegar and brown sugar to dissolve. Add the plums. Simmer about an hour.

You can make this several days ahead of time and keep in refrigerator.

Yield: 12 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 71 calories, 3 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 31 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 12.5 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 65 milligrams sodium.

Dave’s Mango Slaw

From Dave Westfall, Grande Ronde Cellars

1/2 cup white or apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons brown sugar (see note)

1/2 cup lime juice (about 2 limes)

1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 green (unripe) mangoes, peeled, pitted, cut like matchsticks (see note)

4 carrots, peeled and grated

1 stalk celery, cut like matchsticks

1/2 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 inch fresh ginger, grated

2 tablespoons fresh mint

1 tablespoons fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh basil

To make the vinaigrette, mix vinegar, olive oil, brown sugar (if using), lime juice, chili powder and salt and pepper. Set aside.

Combine mango, carrots, celery, onion and ginger. Toss with vinaigrette.

Before serving, sprinkle with chopped mint, cilantro and basil.

Note: You also can use canned mangos in syrup, which are sweeter and softer in texture. If so, then don’t put brown sugar in the vinaigrette.

Yield: 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Parsnip Gratin

From Sylvia Wilson, Feast Catering Co.

1 large yellow or sweet onion

Butter, for sautéing and for the baking dish

2 pounds parsnips (about 4 medium-sized roots), peeled and thinly sliced (see note)

2 pounds potatoes (Yukon gold or russet), peeled and thinly sliced (see note)

1 quart whipping cream (half-and-half will not do!)

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

2 teaspoons nutmeg

1 cup fresh parmesan

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 9- by 14-inch baking dish (heavy-duty ceramic works best).

Dice and sauté onion in a bit of butter until golden brown. Peel and thinly slice parsnips and potatoes. Whisk together salt, pepper and nutmeg into the whipping cream.

Begin layering: Start with a single layer of potatoes, slightly overlapping, in the buttered baking dish. Lightly drizzle with cream mixture. Follow with a light sprinkling of parmesan cheese (about 1 tablespoon). Then place parsnips on top in a single layer, lightly drizzling with cream mixture and sprinkling with 1 tablespoon parmesan.

Repeat with potatoes, cream and parmesan. Add the sautéed onions. Layer parsnips, cream and parmesan. Repeat with potatoes, cream and parmesan. The top layer will be the remaining parsnips (see note). Pour the rest of the whipping cream mixture over the parsnips and sprinkle with 2 to 3 tablespoons parmesan.

Cover with heavy-duty foil and bake for 1  1/2 hours. Remove foil and continue baking for 20 minutes until nicely browned. Sprinkle with fresh thyme.

Notes: Potatoes cook faster than parsnips; so cut parsnips a little thinner. When slicing parsnips, slice at a diagonal. Because the parsnip pieces will vary a lot in size (from widest end to the smallest end), I like to save the widest pieces for the top layer. It just looks better.

Yield: 12 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 430 calories, 32 grams fat (20 grams saturated, 66 percent fat calories), 8 grams protein, 30 grams carbohydrate, 115 milligrams cholesterol, 5 grams dietary fiber.

Coffee Toffee Trifle

From Karen Torkelson, Women’s and Children’s Free Restaurant

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon instant coffee

1/4 cup sugar

1 angel food cake loaf (about 12 ounces)

2 cans (12 ounces each) evaporated skim milk

1 large package (1.5 ounces) instant vanilla pudding (I use sugar-free)

1 carton (16 ounces) whipped topping, thawed

6 to 8 (6-ounce) English toffee or Skor bars, coarsely crushed

In a large mixer bowl, dissolve coffee and sugar in 2 tablespoons very hot water. Cool. Meanwhile, cut or tear cake into 1  l/2-inch chunks.

Pour milk and pudding into coffee mixture. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Stir in cake pieces and set aside for 5 minutes.

In an attractive 2-quart serving bowl, layer half the cake-pudding mixture. Top with half the whipped topping and half the toffee. Repeat with remaining cake mixture, etc.

Cover with wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours for flavors to blend. May be refrigerated overnight.

Yield: 12 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Pumpkin Spice Cake

From Jan Peugh, Madeleine’s Cafe and Patisserie

10 ounces flour (about 2 1/4 cups)

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ginger

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/8 teaspoon cloves

10 ounces vegetable oil

14 ounces granulated sugar (about 2 cups)

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups canned pumpkin

Cream Cheese Frosting:

12 ounces cream cheese

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups powdered sugar

Sift together all dry ingredients.

In bowl of mixer, blend vegetable oil and sugar. Add eggs and mix until thick. Add vanilla and pumpkin and mix until smooth. On low speed, gradually add dry ingredients.

Pour into three 8-inch prepared cake rounds and bake at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes, until toothpick comes out clean. Do not overbake. Let cake cool completely before frosting with cream cheese frosting.

To make the Cream Cheese Frosting, mix together cream cheese and butter until smooth. Add vanilla, then gradually add powder sugar.

Yield: 16 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 376 calories, 27 grams fat (7 grams saturated, 63 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 30 grams carbohydrate, 78 milligrams cholesterol, 1.5 grams dietary fiber, 450 milligrams sodium.