MONTCLAIR, N.J. – A warm spring evening in American suburbia, not long before dusk. Green lawns, well-kept houses, SUVs parked in driveways. From a backyard gas grill comes the enticing, smoky aroma of food cooking. Atop the fire: a mixed grill – all manner of carnivorous delights. Look closer, though. Those burgers, ribs, hot dogs and shish kebabs are in reality "burgers," "ribs" and "shish kebabs." Or, more accurately, "veggie burgers," "riblets," "Smart Dogs" and "meatless skewers" – painstaking imitations of the real thing, made of 100 percent nonanimal materials like seitan, tempeh and other downright meatlike vegetable proteins.