Nothing Rustic About This Cuisine
Upstairs Downtown Main and Howard
I can’t fathom why the owners of Upstairs Downtown tack “rustic cuisine” onto the name of their restaurant.
The dishes I’ve enjoyed at this lovely downtown Spokane restaurant are as sophisticated as anything I’ve eaten anywhere.
A recent meal there turned into a celebration of the senses. The food not only smelled and tasted wonderful, it was a visual treat. I uttered so many umms and ahhs during a sampling of chef Karla Graves’ summer menu, I half expected to be asked to keep it down.
The so-called rustic cuisine at Upstairs Downtown loosely translates to French country fare. The menu is a perfect fit for the bright, airy elegance of the pretty dining room. During warm weather, the windows open to let the sunshine stream in or let the evening breeze caress customers.
Our threesome started this incredible meal with a baked brie and garlic appetizer along with an eggplant-and-roasted-pepper terrine. The purple flesh of the eggplant and the red peppers were layered with a creamy tasting provolone cheese. On their own, the ingredients might be considered boring, but when combined they offered a nice contrast of textures and savory flavors.
I’ve never been a big brie booster, but this baked preparation melted my resolve with a generous helping of buttery soft roasted garlic cloves, which I smashed together with the cheese on the restaurant’s outstanding bread.
Next, we tried the refreshing cold tomato soup, a bracing version of gazpacho with a zesty citrus kick. It was just the antidote for the summer heat.
For our main courses, we were entranced with a Mediterranean seafood stew, a tomato-based mixture that was filled with chunks of salmon, sea bass and scallops. A small slab of polenta poked out of the bowl to give the dish added substance. A pretty saffron aioli sauce that was drizzled on top formed a golden pool in the rich, red stew. This dish was immensely satisfying.
A beef tenderloin was garnished with another cheese I generally steer clear of - gorgonzola. I find its bleu cheese flavor too strong, but in this mild sauce, it was used with restraint. The sauce was rich with a pleasant edge. The flavorful tenderloin was sliced and presented on a piece of toast slathered with an artichoke puree. It was truly a steak sandwich for the gods.
The only minor disappointment of the meal was the sea bass, which was baked with tomatoes, basil and herbs. I liked the flaky texture of the fish, but found it a bit bland. However, a mashed potato-stuffed polbano pepper side dish was positively inspired. The grainy texture and neutral flavor of the potato mellowed out the spicy pepper. Taking a bite of the potato-pepper together with the fish proved to be the way to go.
Throughout the meal, each dish was garnished with different fresh herbs. Mint, basil and lemon thyme were just a few of the edible garnishes I spotted - and devoured.
It’s that attention to detail that makes me want to urge the folks at Upstairs Downtown to consider dropping the rustic cuisine from their name and calling it something like elegant eats. Or just let the food speak for itself.
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