Homemade Bread Well Worth The Effort

I was fortunate to grow up with retired bakers for neighbors. Mr. and Mrs. Maus introduced me to the art of baking bread at a young age, and it wasn’t long before I was experimenting in my family’s kitchen, making cinnamon, white, whole wheat and rye breads.

Since that time, I’ve worked hard to master the intricacies of bread baking. I’ve made classic French baguettes, even croissants and brioches. But there’s always more to learn. If you haven’t ever tried, now is a wonderful time to begin.

People are often intimidated by the thought of making their own bread. But the process isn’t difficult; it requires just a few simple ingredients and, of course, patience. In addition to having a loaf of bread with good texture, substance and flavor, you’ll be rewarded with a strong feeling of satisfaction.

Here are some guidelines for baking bread that I hope will encourage many of you to try it.

Basic recipes don’t call for unusual ingredients. But once you start experimenting, you may try some of the supplies and ingredients a specialty store has to offer. The King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalogue (800-827-6836) is one good mail-order source.

Many recipes call for bread flour, which has a higher gluten content, making chewier bread. It is available in most supermarkets and health-food stores.

It’s a good idea to weigh the flour instead of just scooping it into a measuring cup. A cup of flour should weigh 4 ounces, but it often settles in the bag, and a cup of compacted flour can weigh up to 5-1/2 ounces. Use a kitchen scale to avoid adding too much flour to the dough.

Baking bread does take some time, but it is time well spent. And you shouldn’t feel tied to the kitchen while the bread rises.

Bread can follow your schedule instead of the other way around. Instead of letting it rise in a warm spot, try placing it in the refrigerator for a slower rise overnight. Let the dough return to room temperature before working with it.

Good breads often start with a sponge, which is a mixture of water, yeast and flour. This is a traditional beginning for bread.

A sponge is usually given a day to develop so it brings wonderful flavor to your bread. It can be frozen for up to three months. If you keep some on hand, you’ll be able to bake more spontaneously.

The first step in most recipes is mixing yeast with warm water. This is called proofing the yeast. (You’re making sure it works.) The water should be between 105 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit; use a thermometer to take the guesswork out of the process.

The yeast doesn’t have to bubble or froth, but the mixture should look creamy after about 10 minutes. If it doesn’t, start over with new yeast.

Kneading bread is enjoyable and relaxing. I love the way a good, springy dough feels in my hands. But it can also be exhausting. Let an electric mixer with a dough hook do the kneading, if you wish.

Some breads are simply shaped, while others require a more artistic, skillful touch. Don’t be too concerned about the appearance of your loaves, especially in the beginning. Even if they’re a little uneven or misshapen, they’re probably still delicious. So enjoy them anyway - and keep practicing.

There are a couple of tricks home cooks can use to approximate having professional equipment. To simulate a brick oven, you can bake your bread on a baking stone. These are available at kitchenware shops and from baking catalogs.

Preheat the stone in your oven, and slide the loaf directly onto it. (A baker’s peel, which is a large wooden paddle, makes this job easier.) If you don’t use a stone, bake bread on a preheated cookie sheet. Also preheat an empty baking pan on the lowest oven shelf.

When you slide the dough onto the stone, carefully pour about two cups of very hot water into the baking pan; it will generate steam, which makes a good crust.

Follow recipes exactly, especially in the beginning. Once you perfect one kind of loaf, improvise and create your own variations. Then start baking different loaves.

You’ll soon develop cravings for homemade dinner rolls, sandwiches made with Italian ciabatta, cinnamon-raisin bread for breakfast and slices of peasant bread dipped in olive oil at any time of the day.

And don’t worry if every loaf isn’t a success. A few mistakes are inevitable.

I am still learning too. Every time I make bread, I can’t help but be amazed at the simple yet mysterious process of turning flour, water and yeast into a beautiful loaf.

MEMO: Questions should be addressed to Martha Stewart, c/o The New York Times Syndication Sales Corp., 122 E. 42nd St., New York, NY 10168. Questions may also be sent to Stewart by electronic mail. Her address is: mstewart@msl.timeinc.com.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Martha Stewart New York Times Syndicate