Growing From Seed Indoors, Step By Step

I am sorry about last week’s forgotten follow-up column on starting seeds. I was so taken with our spring-like weather, I thought it appropriate to pass along a few observations. Obviously, Starting Seeds Part 2 was overlooked. But now I’m back indoors and rarin’ to play in the dirt, or more appropriately, soil-less mix.

Before we get started on Part 2, here’s a quick review of the needed materials for starting seeds:

Clean, sterile containers with drain holes.

A sterile seed starting mix or soil-less mix.

Some means of providing bottom heat (heating cables are preferable).

Markers to identify what has been planted.

Clear plastic covering to cover the planted containers.

Supplemental lighting.

A soil thermometer.

Part 2: The actual planting

Fill the containers with the starting mix. I prefer using a dampened mix. This is easily accomplished by pouring the mix into a large bucket and adding hot water. Allow it to sit for a couple of hours, stirring every now and then. The finished product should be damp, not soggy, and it should be warm.

Each seed has its own planting requirements. Some seeds need to be covered with soil, some don’t. Some require light to germinate while others need darkness. Some need very warm soil, others do not. And of course, some seed is very fine and a bit difficult to work with while other seed is large and easily handled. The frustrating part is that most seed packets don’t give all this necessary information. A good reference guide for seed requirements is the Stokes seed catalog or the book, “From Seed to Bloom” by Eileen Powell.

Once the seed is planted, stake the container with the name of the plant and color of flower. Sometimes, stakes can get lost or little hands can mix them up. For a little added insurance, write the name of the flower and color on a strip of masking tape and tape it to the pot.

Cover the containers with a clear material - dry cleaner bags, glass or plastic domes are excellent for this operation.

Set the containers on a heat cable or some place where they will receive bottom heat. Most seed requires soil temperatures of 70 degrees or better. Rule of thumb: Soil temperatures usually run about 16 degrees cooler than your house temperature. Since most of us don’t keep our homes at 86 degrees, find some method to supply bottom heat. A soil thermometer is a handy tool. Keeping the soil at the proper temperature could mean the difference between poor germination and excellent germination.

Watch the seeds every day. Some may only take a couple of days to germinate while others may take two to three weeks. Once the seed begins to sprout, remove the plastic domes or pull them back to ensure good air circulation.

Watch the soil moisture carefully. Do not let the mix dry, but do not allow it to become saturated either. Warm, humid conditions may cause a disease called “damping off.” Plants that contract this disease are unmistakable. The stem turns black at the soil line, then the plant collapses. Plants that are susceptible to this dreaded disease are best treated with a fungicide such as Captan. Using a fine layer of sphagnum moss also seems to retard the development of the disease.

After the seedlings develop their second set of leaves, it’s time to transplant. Once again, use clean containers with drain holes. If you have flower flats with open lattice bottoms, simply fold a piece of newspaper in half and cover the bottom. Fill the flat or other containers with soil - equal parts sandy loam, peat moss and vermiculite, for example. If you’re only raising a few plants, simply use a commercial potting soil.

Gently loosen the soil around the roots of the seedlings with a spoon. Lift a handful of plants and gently separate them by shaking them apart. Grasp each little plant, one at a time, by its leaves and plant it into the new soil. Never handle the seedlings by their stems.

Once all the plants are planted, (depending upon the plants, 60-72 plants will fit in a flat), gently water them with warm water, settling the soil around their roots.

Place the containers in bright light. If you don’t have a sunroom or greenhouse, supplemental lighting will probably be necessary. The lights do not have to be expensive grow lights. Simple warm and cool spectrum florescent tubes will bring good results. Though most plants must have very warm soil to germinate, most seedlings require cool temperatures (60-65 degrees) to grow well. Again, check carefully for each variety of seed.

All plants grown indoors will have to be hardened to the outside elements before they can be transplanted to their permanent home. This simply means gradually exposing them to sun, wind, rain and cold by taking them in and out each day for about 10 days. By the end of the 10th day, your little treasures should be ready to plant.

Wasn’t that fun? I guarantee, if you try starting seeds indoors, you will be hooked forever on a new hobby.

, DataTimes