Ridding Your Garden Of Intruders
About this time each spring, we begin our campaign against the bugs, diseases and weeds in our yards. But before arming ourselves with an arsenal of weapons, I’d like to pass along a bit of potpourri concerning these intruders:
Diseases
Like humans, plants that are stressed become susceptible to a plethora of diseases. We can greatly improve our garden companions’ ability to ward off these diseases by following some sound gardening practices.
Rotate vegetable crops whenever possible. This practice will help keep the population of disease organisms from growing.
Keep plants healthy by giving them the proper amount of water and fertilizer. Know your plants. Some plants need to be kept quite moist, others like life on the dry side. Most plants are overfertilized, which causes soft growth, which in turn makes them vulnerable to disease and insect attack.
Sanitation practices are critical. Clean up all the winter debris and other stuff laying about the garden. All kinds of things live in that stuff including live bugs, eggs and overwintering diseases.
Keep your tools clean. If you dig into diseased soil or clip diseased plants, you run the risk of carrying that disease from one place to the other. Clean tools with a bleach solution of one part bleach to nine parts water.
When infection does occur, use copper or sulfur fungicides to help prevent it from spreading or recurring. Always read the label first. Not all plants can tolerate what might seem like benign sprays.
Some recent research promotes the use of anti-transpirants (such as Wilt-Pruf) as a fungicide. This material is used to protect evergreen trees and shrubs from dehydration during the winter months. There have been cases where the anti-transpirant has protected the plants from spores that cause diseases such as powdery mildew.
Dormant oils can also help with disease control. The oil smothers overwintering spores. It is not too late to apply dormant oil. Again, read the label.
Insects
In the insect kingdom there are good guys and bad guys, and we need to know the difference. Take the time to identify these creepy crawlers as they make the rounds in your garden. Be just as diligent in inviting the beneficial insects into the yard as you are in eradicating the villains.
Some gardeners use a system called companion planting. Many assume that the odor from the particular companion flowers or herbs repel insects. Research has shown this isn’t exactly the case. Most leaves don’t give off an aroma unless they are brushed or rubbed. Even if they did give off an odor, it would cover a very limited radius.
Rather than repelling insects, companion plants attract beneficial insects. The companion plant supples the necessary pollen and nectar for the good bug’s diet. They stop by for a quick dessert and discover a full-course meal of delectable treats in the form of the bad bugs.
BT (Bacillus thruingiensis): Many of us use this organic material to destroy the caterpillar stage of insects. This bacteria/toxin controls specific pest populations without harming humans or animals.
The bacteria spores of BT are alive and must be protected to insure long life. Ultraviolet light can quickly destroy the spores. When spraying, try to keep the material on the underside of the leaf where it is shady. Temperatures also affect the life of BT. Spray in the cool of the evening. Try not to spray when it’s windy or when rain is predicted. Heavy rain and wind disperse spores onto the ground or into the air making it impossible for insects to eat them.
There are a number of BTs on the market. Look for specific formulations for specific insects, such as: BTK which controls many insects like cabbage looper, corn earworm, cutworms, fall webworm, hornworms, leafrollers, sod webworm and a host of other caterpillars. BT San Diego controls black vine weevil, Colorado potato beetle and elm leaf beetle. BTI controls black flies, fungus gnats and mosquitoes.
How well will insecticidal soaps work for you? According to Rodales “Chemical Free Yard and Garden,” if you’re having bad luck, the problem may be with your tap water, not the soap. Hard water (a problem in our area), contains minerals such as calcium, magnesium and iron which combine chemically with the fatty acids in insecticidal soap. This affects the potency of the soap plus increases the danger of leaf burn.
Before using, test the soap in your water to see how it reacts. Old chemicals you’ve had for years can also be tested in the same manner.
Add three tablespoons of the soap or chemical to a quart of water. Close and shake the jar well. Let it stand for 15 minutes. If the mix remains uniform, light and milky, the soap sprays will be effective. If a scum develops on the surface, the spray will be less effective or not effective at all.
This may prove to be quite an interesting year in the garden. The best protection you can give to your plants is to know them. Know their likes and dislikes and what diseases and insects favor each plant.
Walk your garden often, taking notes of what’s happening. Before spraying anything, know what you’re spraying, what you’re spraying for and the best time to use spray. When working with chemicals, protect yourself by wearing goggles and rubber gloves.
Gardening is an adventurous, learning experience. Wouldn’t you agree?
Note: The WSU Master Gardeners will be hosting two workshops Saturday at the Spokane County Ag Building, 222 N. Havana. The first, from 10 a.m. to noon, is on hostas and unusual perennials, given by Alan Tower, owner of Tower Perennials. The second, from 1 to 3 p.m., is on hardy roses presented by Northland Rosarium. There is a $5 fee for each program, pre-registration is not necessary.
, DataTimes The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Phyllis Stephens The Spokesman-Review