New Colonel At Clink’S Aldred Plans Few Changes

Changes are subtle, not splashy, when a new chef arrives at Clinkerdagger.

Just this month, there has been a changing of the guard in the kitchen at the Spokane institution people picked as their favorite place to eat in this newspaper’s recent “Reader Review.”

But no one need fret that new executive chef Bob Aldred will tinker with the famous pea salad recipe or alter the way the burnt cream is concocted. Part of Clink’s longstanding appeal is that comforting consistency.

“There’s a lot of history here,” Aldred said of the Flour Mill fixture (621 W. Mallon, 328-5965). “We prepare food the way Spokane likes it, but at the same time, we also need to challenge our guests with different ideas.”

At age 39, Aldred has been working in the food industry for more than half his life. He most recently was sous chef at Palomino in Palm Desert, Calif., a sister property of Clinkerdagger. (Both are owned by the Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited.) Yet this California native knows something about Spokane’s taste, having worked for several years in the early ‘90s at Cyrus O’Leary’s.

“Before when I worked here, I was told this was a meat and potatoes town, but I think people are more accepting of new foods,” Aldred said.

Aldred wants to start innovating with the side dishes, occasionally trading polenta or white beans for the ubiquitous mashed potatoes.

“I think each plate should look different, have its own unique accompaniments,” he said.

On a recent fresh sheet, a game hen was stuffed with long-grain rice, dried fruit, pine nuts and Marsala wine. A king salmon steak was paired with a creamy mixture of Dungeness crab, artichoke and fresh spinach. Even the taters have taken a dramatic turn, mashed with porcini mushrooms.

Aldred is also looking forward to working with the restaurant’s on-site smoker. “We might even do a smoked prime rib,” he said.

Many of the items on Clink’s current “game” menu have been smoked over apple wood. Pheasant, venison and duck have all been infused with the exotic flavor.

That kind of cooking ensures that Aldred will forever be using his favorite kitchen gadget: a meat thermometer that’s about the size of a ball point pen.

“We call it pocket equipment. It’s just part of the uniform,” he said.

While he dons the same uniform every day, his schedule is never the same. And that’s the way Aldred likes it.

“You’re always facing new challenges,” he said. “It’s never boring.”

Prime Rib Roasted in Rock Salt

This Clinkerdagger recipe was once a closely guarded secret, especially when a now-defunct competing restaurant put a similar dish on its menu. Aldred suggests using the best grade of meat available.

1 (4-pound) prime rib

2 cups, or more as necessary, food-grade rock salt

1 tablespoon coarse ground pepper

1 tablespoon Lawry’s seasoning salt

Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with rock salt. Place prime rib, bone-side down, on salt. Season meat with pepper and seasoning salt and cover completely with more rock salt.

Roast in a 210-degree oven for 9 to 10 hours, until internal temperature reaches 125 degrees. Remove from oven and let rest for 30 minutes to set the juices and make roast easier to carve.

When ready to serve, remove all salt from rib and carve.

Yield: 4-6 servings.

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings: 786 calories, 47 grams fat (54 percent fat calories), no carbohydrate, 85 grams protein, 242 milligrams cholesterol (sodium content varies because of rock salt).

Burnt Cream

1 pint whipping cream

4 egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

Sugar topping:

4 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon brown sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a saucepan, heat cream over low heat until bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Beat egg yolks and sugar together until thick, about 3 minutes. Gradually beat into warm cream.

Stir in vanilla and pour into 6 (6-ounce) custard cups. Place cups in baking pan with about inch water in the bottom. Bake until set, about 45 minutes.

Remove custard cups from water and refrigerate until well chilled. Sprinkle each custard with about 2 teaspoons of the sugar blend. Place on top rack under broiler and cook until topping is medium brown. Chill before serving.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 378 calories, 28 grams fat (67 percent fat calories), 29 grams carbohydrate, 4 grams protein, 230 milligrams cholesterol, 33 milligrams sodium.