Preferred Plates Several New Faces And Some Old Favorites Grace This Year’S List Of Top 10 Restaurants

I had a dream.

There were towers of feather-light puff pastry layered with exotic mushrooms. Fork-tender beef was swaddled in an exquisite peppercorn demiglace. Earthy, pan-fried polenta was topped with a savory sage pesto. Pristine oysters glistened on the half shell.

And it was all piled high on a steaming buffet line with people shoving and grabbing and loading their plates as if there were no such thing as second helpings.

Aaaaaaaagh. Thank heavens my alarm went off.

Maybe there was just too much garlic in my marinara the night before. Or, maybe this was a vision of things to come?

Nah.

More likely it was a reflection of last year’s wild mix of culinary highs and lows: the explosion of Chinese all-you-can-eat, the continuing evolution of an innovative, upscale dining scene, our strong steakhouses, the debut of pricey prix-fixe French, the on-going search for the best meal deal.

In 1998, I ate better than ever before in this region. (And I’ve got the snug trousers to prove it.) Here’s the annual roundup of my favorite places to get fat and happy.

Rank #1

Paprika, 1228 S. Grand Blvd., 455-7545

Since I started compiling this list five years ago, no restaurant has ever held onto the top spot for two years in a row. But Paprika repeats as culinary champ this year after simply outdoing itself.

Chef-owner Karla Graves revamped the menu’s format last summer, giving first courses as much care and attention as the main plates. And her offerings have never been more inspired.

Highlights have been a warm potato salad with smoked trout, a curried pumpkin and leek flan, the classy scallop ceviche served in a martini glass, grilled quail with a robust red chili sauce, the delicate sea bass and scallops poached in a tomato-fennel broth and braised rabbit tossed with rosemary noodles. And on and on. …

Food is art here, with the plate coming to the table looking as beautiful as it tastes.

To give diners the opportunity to graze among the amazing dishes, Graves introduced a seven-course tasting menu this fall and the response has been overwhelming.

The hard-working Graves richly deserves the compliments that filter back to the kitchen. She is constantly striving to make her guests happy.

Rank #2

Luna, 5620 S. Perry, 448-2383

Luna is back. They are in a real groove at this lovely South Hill spot, with great food and service on par with the always-stylish surroundings.

Owners William and Marcia Bond have come through a sophomore slump and re-energized their staff. The chef hired last summer, Brian Hutchins, shows great promise.

Just last week, a dinner was incredible from start to finish: a knockout smoked-duck pizza topped with fontina cheese and walnut pesto, the always-excellent house salad, a sea bass paired with savoy cabbage and an unusual pomegranate jus, ahi tuna with an Asian twist, the best pork chops to pass these lips all year and oven-roasted prawns with dreamy polenta.

Service was great, the room looked especially gorgeous all decked out for the holidays and I was again impressed with the depth of the wine selection. It was truly a memorable evening.

Luna also does a bang-up brunch, with the salmon hash with a rich lemon-dill sauce and the fantastic french toast with caramelized bananas and pecans being among the standouts. The outstanding house-baked cinnamon bread is worth the trip alone.

Rank #3

Cafe 5-Ten, 510 S. Freya, 533-0064

Cafe 5-Ten continues to hit on all cylinders.

Last fall, one meal made me want to weep for joy. A cooling cucumber soup struck a balance between rich and tangy. A piece of fresh Hawaiian ono that was seared, flaky and moist, was finished with a brilliant lemon-caper sauce on a bed of sauteed red cabbage. It was simple perfection.

Chef-owner Michael Waliser takes risks with his specials and hit the mark recently with an amazing appetizer. Cold slices of melt-in-your mouth beef tenderloin were paired with sauteed apples and shaved parmesan. An unusual, inspired combination.

The desserts are stunning, too, in both presentation and taste. A risotto pudding last fall was intense with pureed apricots and bits of apples drizzled with caramel.

A little more variety on the regular menu and this cozy place is poised to have the finest food in Spokane.

The bummer remains that lack of liquor license (because of its proximity to a school) which means a trip to the state store to pick up a banquet permit if you want to BYOB.

Rank #4

Elkin’s, Nordman, Idaho, (208) 443-2432

Elkin’s is truly a special place. On the shores of Priest Lake, this resort is rich with history.

And while the dining room has a kind of nostalgic elegance, with its stone fireplace and vintage log walls, Mike Szybnski’s menu includes cutting-edge cuisine.

Along with the classics such as stroganoff and roast chicken, seafood dishes shine. Last summer, that meant Hawaiian opah and ahi, soft-shell crabs from Maryland and Alaskan salmon prepared several ways.

The wok-grilled, ruby-fleshed salmon with a ginger beurre blanc was a thing of beauty as was the grilled-just-right opah with a sweet-spicy peanut sauce. The portions were generous and the presentation sophisticated.

And, being there in that serene setting, looking up at majestic Chimney Rock, made me even more appreciative of the culinary artistry going on in that tiny kitchen.

Elkins is open only on weekends during the winter, and the menu shifts toward warming fare such as barbecued ribs, wine-marinated flank steak and fettuccine tossed with smoked trout.

Rank #5

Niko’s, 725 W. Riverside, 624-7444

Niko’s breaks into the Top 5 with the addition of a tony new wine bar.

This slick space adds so much to this evolving ethnic eatery. Presided over by savvy Pauline Riley, the wine bar has a great vibe and outstanding apps.

I’ve feasted on sauteed chanterelles, spicy lamb sausage pita pizza, a pungent pan-fried goat cheese called saganaki and garlicky shrimp, all excellent partners for the stellar selection of wine.

In the dining room, I was impressed with a wine dinner this fall that featured five courses of Italian food and wine. An olive-roasted lamb shank and an ethereal pear sponge cake were among the showstoppers.

On any given day, I know I can order anything off Laith Elaimy’s Mediterranean-style menu and get a fine meal. Yet it’s hard to stray from my all-time favs, the fragrant chicken kabsa and sesame pasta saute.

Rank #6

Mizuna, 214 N. Howard, 747-2004

Is it possible to make rutabagas appetizing?

Mizuna’s Tonia Buckmiller has found a way on her warming winter menu — in a richly spiced Indian curry.

The ever-inventive chef is constantly challenging our notion of what constitutes meatless cuisine.

For instance, a recent dinner took the edge off the chill outside with butternut squash tossed with delicate pasta and chickpeas. The whole thing was simmered in an intense garlic-wine broth. It was satisfying, yet light at the same time.

Or, take the grilled Chilean tortilla cakes — spinach and tomato tortillas layered with smoky mozzarella and caramelized garlic served on a bed of spicy black beans. Who knew you could give these simple wraps so much flavor?

Bravo to Buckmiller and her partner Sylvia Wilson for making it so easy to heed Mom’s advice about eating your vegetables.

Rank #7

Fugazzi, 1 N. Post, 624-1133

Fugazzi is experiencing some growing pains.

The food has taken a turn toward the ordinary with last fall’s departure of Meg Rychel-Edwards, a veteran chef who grew weary of pressure to watch the bottom line.

Other significant departures include talented baker Keith Goyden and Howard Bateman, the longtime linecook at Fugazzi Bakery and Cafe, who quit this week. Bateman said he didn’t want to stick around and watch the restaurant’s downhill slide.

A recent decision to switch to a cheaper coffee that has all the body of a waif supermodel shows that cost-consciousness might be more valued than quality.

Also, it was disappointing that Fugazzi abandoned the very hip jazz brunch after only a short run.

I had lots of terrific meals there this past year. And I always enjoy the service and the sophisticated, elegant atmosphere.

During a recent dinner, however, the meals were uneven. My filet mignon was wonderful — tender and flavorful — but the accompanying wild mushroom risotto was bland and served room temperature. The grilled zuchini on the side lacked imagination.

A swordfish special also showed great promise, as the fish was perfectly cooked. But the mashed sweet potatoes it was served with overpowered its delicate flavor.

Desserts — especially, the seasonal fruit crisps and the exceptional Meyer lemon Napoleon — by pastry chef Karen Edwards continue to be a bright spot.

The restaurant has some work to do before it can regain its position as a top dining spot.

Rank #8

Capers Bistro, 315 E. Walnut, (208) 664-9036

Capers Bistro in Coeur d’Alene has introduced North Idaho diners to such exotica as harissa (a fiery African spice paste) and dishes brightened with preserved lemons.

Marilyn Nergord’s eclectic menu features food from warm weather climes. And it’s served with style by her genial hubby Steve in a pretty little dining room.

The Mediterranean sampler starter shows the kitchen’s versatility. Last fall, it was laden with vegetables grown in the Nergords’ garden, paired up with unusual cheeses and pumpkin seeds roasted in chili powder.

Capers’ new lineup has gone a little more upscale with dishes such as veal scallops with a porcini mushroom sauce, a New York steak stuffed with gorgonzola cheese and lobster with green tomato sauce tossed with penne pasta.

Attention given to detail is evident when chewing on a piece of freshly baked bread or sipping one of the robustly seasoned soups.

On my wish list for 1999 is that Capers would reinstate its outstanding Sunday brunch. At least on special occasions. Like my birthday.

Rank #9

MacDonald’s Res., Bayview, Idaho, (208) 683-2211

MacDonald’s Hudson Bay Resort is this year’s most delicious sleeper.

Open just for the summer season, this out-of-the-way spot absolutely blew me away with one of the most exceptional dinners I enjoyed all year.

It was a cool spring evening, so the clear plastic tarps were rolled down to enclose this dining room set up on a pier in Bayview, Idaho.

The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Dave Klyzek gathers the top-quality ingredients and puts them together in traditional, French-inspired dishes.

There’s nothing fussy about the offerings. They’re just executed with great aplomb.

The salmon filet I savored was baked with thin slices of potatoes on top, fashioned to look like scales. They were perfectly crispy and kept the fish moist in the oven. The velvety beurre blanc was rich without being cloying.

A ribeye was the best steak I’ve eaten in years. It was cold-smoked and then grilled so it had intense flavor, almost as if it had been cooked with bacon. The horseradish-spiked spuds on the side were pure heaven.

And, though I’m not a big fan of creme caramel, our server convinced me to try it. All I could say, after I scraped the last bite from the bowl, was this could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

Rank #10

Chicken n’More, 502 W. Sprague, 838-5071

Chicken ‘n’ More isn’t really a restaurant. There’s no table service. Heck, there aren’t even any tables.

You’ve got to grab a stool and secure some space at the counter.

But this tiny corner store has lots of personality, thanks to its genuinely nice-guy owner, Bob Hemphill.

The man reminds me a little bit of a preacher and the deep-fryer is his pulpit. His loyal congregation regularly gives thanks and praise for the most outrageous chicken and barbecued ribs around.

The ribs are loaded with tender, juicy meat and have a true smoky flavor that comes from slow-cooking over wood. The signature sweet-tangy sauce is served on the side, just like the way they do in Texas, Hemphill’s home state.

Now, if only his side dishes were as fine as the chicken and ribs. The Jo-Jos are good, if you get them fresh from the fryer. But the slaw and baked beans could stand some attention.

Some folks swear by Hemphill’s catfish sandwich, but I’m partial to the chicken when I’m in the mood for something fried. It’s crispy on the outside, moist on the inside and the simple, right-on seasoning would make the Colonel pea-green with envy.

As you’re walking out the door, Hemphill will likely issue his standard adieu: “God Bless You. Thanks for coming in.”

So, let’s all have a toast to the New Year and the promise of all the fabulous food to come. Now, get out there and eat!

This year vs. last year This is how critic Leslie Kelly rated the restaurants this year vs. her rankings for 1997:

1998 Top 10 Restaurants 1. Paprika 2. Luna 3. Cafe 5-Ten 4. Elkin’s 5. Niko’s 6. Mizuna 7. Fugazzi 8. Capers Bistro 9. MacDonald’s Resort 10. Chicken ‘n’ More

1997 Top 10 Restaurants 1. Paprika 2. Cafe 5-Ten 3. Fugazzi 4. Mizuna 5. Luna 6. The Wine Cellar 7. Harry O’s 8. Combray 9. Thai Cafe/Thai Kitchen 10. Niko’s