Extreme Proves Disappointing At New Grill In Schweitzer Lodge

There’s a lot to like about the new Schweitzer Mountain Resort.

Unfortunately, my dinner at the Chimney Rock Grill was not one of them.

The Grill replaces Jean’s as the anchor eatery in the ski-in, ski-out Selkirk Lodge (formerly The Green Gables).

They’ve changed things around a bit physically, moving the front door for easy accessibility, adding a pool table and dartboard near the lounge area, installing more windows to let the light shine in. On the walls, they’ve installed mug shots of local skiing and climbing buffs — a nice gesture to make residents feel like it’s their place.

The adjoining bar was hopping last Saturday night, as was the dining room. Our plucky server apologized several times for delays, and we certainly understood.

What I don’t understand is why a kitchen sets out to do something so ambitious that it can’t possibly pull it off.

Such as the “extreme special.” These nightly specials feature such exotica as rabbit, frog’s legs and mountain lion. (I’m just guessing it tastes like chicken.) That evening, swordfish was billed as extreme.

OK, I’ll bite. Yet what showed up on my plate was not what the server described.

The fish was supposed to be seared and served with a pineapple beurre blanc. Instead it was smeared with a thick coating of wasabi (Japanese horseradish) that obscured the flavor of the fish, then a heavy coating of bread crumbs. The texture of the fish was mushy, the sauce too sweet.

The mixed sauteed veggies on the side were cooked fine, but had OD’d on garlic, making them taste bitter. And the roasted potatoes tasted as if they had sat a little too long under the warming lights.

Not everyone at my table was disappointed. A ribeye steak was great, tender and juicy with a nice smoky flavor. The surf and turf included a generous portion of snow crab legs. A salmon fillet was cooked moist and flaky, but the teriyaki sauce was overpowering — gooey and sweet. And that diner had ordered a different sauce altogether, but didn’t want to wait for the fix to be made.

I did appreciate the diversity of the menu, in price and portion size. Mid-size meals included a pizza with smoked chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and three kinds of cheese, as well as a burger and a few other sandwiches served with fries, soup or salad. Everything’s under $8 on that section of the menu.

Other high-end entrees included tequila chicken pasta, New Zealand lamb chops, pork prime rib and linguine with calamari and marinara sauce. Prices were between $13 and $21.

A kid’s menu listed faves such as grilled cheese, a burger, spaghetti or pizza, all under $5.

The restaurant also offers breakfast and runs a powder pancake special, all-you-can-gobble flapjacks for $3.99 if the mountain picked up new snow overnight. (A pretty good bet this winter.)

I just wish that instead of trying to do so much, the Grill scaled back its offerings to focus on doing fewer things really well. That ribeye showed the place’s potential. And you just cannot top that awesome location.

More mountain munchies

The best thing I had at Schweitzer all weekend was a bowl of chili from the new Jazz Alley. This spot is located in the main lodge and is designed for quick pick-up stuff.

They’ve got prepackaged sandwiches (for $6), some pasta and fruit salads and a couple of hot soup choices. A bowl’s a measly $3.50.

The chili was mild, filled with ground beef, big chunks of tomato and two kinds of beans. I asked if they had Tabasco. No, nada. But the next day when I went back, they had both red and green hot stuff and shredded cheddar. Such a deal.

I have also liked the soups and sandwiches at the Pend Oreille Brewing Co., located next to the lodge. It’s got a fabulous view down to the lake, weather permitting.

And for apres ski, head to The St. Bernard Club, down the road (turn on Northwest Passage) from the base area. (It’s near the chapel.)

For years now, this family-friendly restaurant has had the best food on the mountain. Count on great steaks, a terrific hot Italian sausage pasta, burgers and a marinated pork chop with gingered apple sauce. Fresh fish dominates the nightly specials. Recent examples include halibut cheeks and prawns sauteed with shiitake mushrooms, garlic and fresh basil, and ahi tuna with a curried coconut cashew crust served with an orange ginger sauce.

The St. Bernard also has an excellent wine list and several brews on tap.

Call (208) 255-7022 for reservations, especially on Saturdays. The restaurant opens at 5 every Thursday through Sunday.

Where are they now?

Doing a little end-of-the-century cleaning, I went through my old menu files (dating back to the early ‘90s) and found a lot of places that no longer exist.

Why they couldn’t cut it might be chalked up to any number of reasons: bad location, poor management, lousy food. But for most, I think it was the simple reality that the restaurant business is tough.

Here’s a small sampling of spots gone, but not necessarily forgotten: La Tiendita, Skazka (a Russian restaurant in Medical Lake), Kebab Grill, Tandoor, Caribbean Plaza, First Avenue Bistro and Gregory’s in Sandpoint, II Moon Cafe, The Anaconda Grill, Sprouts Fresh Cafe, Coffee Pot Cafe, Salty’s, Pizza Oasis, Au Croissant (now Fery’s Catering), Bubba’s in Almira, Adolfson’s Cafe Grand, Coyote Cafe, Bistro’s, Garlic City, Copper Creek Wrap, Birkebeiner Brewery, Asian Cafe, Monarch Fisheries, WineSteinz, Big Mamu Burrito, Rodolfo’s and Harry O’s.

One final note: David’s Pizza downtown location has closed. The store on Hamilton remains open while owners search for another downtown venue to produce their New York-style pies.

Cafe takes higher ground

A lunch spot at Rock Pointe Corporate Center has new management, a new menu and a new name.

The Higher Grounds Cafe is serving up sandwiches, soups made from scratch and daily specials, all under $5.

Michael Metters and his chef, Andrew “Spike” Johnson, specialize in such stick-to-your-ribs fare as slow-roasted beef with real mashed potatoes, open-face turkey sandwiches (every Thursday), enchiladas, lasagna, ham and cheese croissants, stuffed potatoes, sweet-and-sour chicken and chicken pot pie.

Entree-size salads include a taco salad, a chicken Caesar and an old-fashioned chef salad. The cafe also offers burgers and a chicken quesadilla with fresh salsa.

Metters, a former barista, features Craven’s coffee and a selection of pastries for his early-morning customers.

Higher Grounds Cafe is located in building three at Rock Pointe, which is on the corner of Boone and Washington.

Small bites

* There has been some confusion, so let’s set the record straight: The White House Grill in Post Falls is not affiliated with White House Catering in Coeur d’Alene. And neither are associated with that White House at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. in Washington, D.C.

* Mizuna is no longer serving its Saturday brunch; it proved too much trouble. Still, the upscale vegetarian restaurant plans to open for lunches on Saturday later this year.

* Finally, but certainly not least, let’s salute Papa Murphy’s Pizza for its efforts to assist The Salvation Army with a post-holiday food drive.

All locations of this popular take-and-bake pizza chain will give customers a $1 discount when they bring in a canned or boxed food item. But get on the stick because this effort ends Saturday.